# Training the broad jump



## RedDogs

I've used this training plan for a few dogs, all except mine have competed and done well (...with this exercise at least!).

1) Dog has good jumping skills
2) Dog is left in a stay or held by a helper.
3) If dog is less skilled at jumping, handler will move, click the jump, feed straight ahead, etiher in a bowl placed out there or by running to the location. Repeat a few times.
4) Handler stands still, cues the jump, dog jumps and heads out. Jump is marked, food is placed ahead. 
5) Separately a VERY good front is trained...and a finish...and a release.

I'm surprised well it's gone with my dog. He's only had three lessons specifically with the broad jump, two in an agility context, one for obed. What I think has helped him:
- Good understanding of verbal cues
- Very good jumping skills
- We have cues for jump-and-turn. This helps him know that otherwise he should be jumping and heading straight.

We are going to still need to develop a strong history of reinforcement for feeding straight ahead.. I got greedy and ran him through the whole chain twice, he wasn't cutting the jump but not heading as straight as is desirable. His fronts made me very happy.


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## GoldenSail

Good thread 

Ok, so my instructor was having me throw a toy to encourage the jump. I found I was having to throw the toy further to the left to try and encourage a straighter jump and I just didn't like it at all. 

So, I did it my way (which might be a regular way to train it, idk). I started using a yogurt lid with cookies on it to get the straight jump each and every time and hopefully teach her not to focus on me so much during this exercise because I figure that is why they cut corners--to be with you sooner! This is why I also don't ask for front/finishes often with this one. I was going to intermittenly put flood on the plate to start phasing it out. She would still get rewarded for doing the jump, just not from the plate.

But--I have found two things. First, she loves the lid itself so I don't use food anymore we just roll around and play with the lid for a successful BJ. (This actually more fun and rewarding for both of us) Secondly--she can see the target better than I thought which means if I take it away she won't jump or she'll walk over it. So right now I am trying to decide how to fix this part of it. I've gotten the suggestion of halving the target until it is no longer visible and I think I may try that--after I start sending her with me in different positions. I never thought to do that before :


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## Titan1

I did straight recalls over the broad jump with a flexi until he understood and then started at the very top of the boards and worked my to the left until I found the right spot to stand for him. This was all on the flexi until he completely understood. What I do if he starts cutting the corner is to lay a white folding measure stick on top of the broad jump with about 6 inches sticking over the top. I always have the stick in my show bag and if needed I can pull it out to remind him in practice..


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## FlyingQuizini

I recently learned a great trick from Denise Fenzi for preventing cutting over the broad jump:

However you get to the point where you're standing where you'll be in competition --- once you're there, every time in training when the dog jumps, as you pivot, take a giant step to your right so that you're standing at the end of the jump, with the jump behind you. It basically creates two lanes - one for the dog (at the center of the jump) and one for you (at the right corner area of the last board). Then when it's a "real" broad jump, the dog sees you pivot and doesn't know if you're going to just pivot, or pivot and end up in your "lane" where your body makes sure he has to stay in his.

Hope that makes sense. I was having a problem with Quiz cutting and this cleared it right up!


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## K9-Design

FlyingQuizini said:


> I recently learned a great trick from Denise Fenzi for preventing cutting over the broad jump:
> 
> However you get to the point where you're standing where you'll be in competition --- once you're there, every time in training when the dog jumps, as you pivot, take a giant step to your right so that you're standing at the end of the jump, with the jump behind you. It basically creates two lanes - one for the dog (at the center of the jump) and one for you (at the right corner area of the last board). Then when it's a "real" broad jump, the dog sees you pivot and doesn't know if you're going to just pivot, or pivot and end up in your "lane" where your body makes sure he has to stay in his.
> 
> Hope that makes sense. I was having a problem with Quiz cutting and this cleared it right up!


Cool idea, I like it!
I can't stand the broad jump, I think it's a shoulder injury waiting to happen.
Fisher never has done it very well.
I have been working with Slater just straight jumps over a few boards, with two poles stuck in the ground like an "X" over the last board, in the middle. He jumps thru the X so always in the middle of the jump. I haven't taken it farther than that, who knows. I don't like visual props either but I think broad jump is really hard for dogs to figure out what you're teaching them.


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## FlyingQuizini

K9-Design said:


> Cool idea, I like it!
> I can't stand the broad jump, I think it's a shoulder injury waiting to happen.
> Fisher never has done it very well.
> I have been working with Slater just straight jumps over a few boards, with two poles stuck in the ground like an "X" over the last board, in the middle. He jumps thru the X so always in the middle of the jump. I haven't taken it farther than that, who knows. I don't like visual props either but I think broad jump is really hard for dogs to figure out what you're teaching them.


I don't like it for the shoulder strain, either.

I heard that ASCA is in the process of changing how they judge the jump. Rather than have you stand next to the jump, I think the proposed change is you stand x-feet in front of it and have the dog front. It eliminates the jarring turn on the landing. I'll have to ask my obedience trainer; she has Aussies and is very up to date on the ASCA changes, etc.


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## bizzy

I really like that "Lane" idea Quiz! Very cool.


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## Megora

> I can't stand the broad jump, I think it's a shoulder injury waiting to happen.


I was going to start a thread to ask, but found this in a search. Hope nobody minds a semi-zombie thread sproinging out of the ground....  

We started Jacks on broad and high jumps last fall. Um. Right now we just do them at class, because I don't have the jumps at home and wouldn't be able to practice anyway until the snow melts and I can use the front lawn. 

He's doing "baby" jumps right now until I can get more practice with him and build up his strength. Just 12" on the high jump and I think he's jumping 30-32" on the broad jump. 

For teaching the broad jump I'm putting Jacks in a wait 8 feet in front of the jump, and then I'm going on the other side of the jump and facing the landing space. I leave a little lane between me and the jump. I tell Jacks over and toss a treat for him to chase about 8 feet beyond the jump and then I toss a second treat the other direction down the lane. This is apparently supposed to teach him to jump clean over the jump and the arc back to the space where I'd be standing if he were finishing in front. 

That's my on topic comment.

The reason why I search and found this thread was because of my concern about injury - like shoulder strain as mentioned already. Or wear on the joints as with the taking the high jump and landing hard on the front legs. 

How often do you practice jumps a week?

Does practicing more or _less_ prevent injury?

Do you give extra supplements (for bones and muscle) than you normally would if you have a dog practicing at least 3 repetitions on each jump per day?


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## Loisiana

As far as injury on the broad jump, I think that most often occurs on a dog that tries to turn too early. So it's important to teach a dog to jump straight and then turn after landing.


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## lgnutah

can anyone post a video showing this training sequence?


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## AmberSunrise

Is there a specific sequence you'd like to see, or the Broad Jump once trained?



lgnutah said:


> can anyone post a video showing this training sequence?


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## Megora

Loisiana said:


> As far as injury on the broad jump, I think that most often occurs on a dog that tries to turn too early. So it's important to teach a dog to jump straight and then turn after landing.


*looks relieved* He's after the treats when he goes over the jump, so at least at this point he is not cutting corners. He's zooming over the boards, straight up the middle and galloping for the bouncing treat. Not to say cutting corners won't be a problem later as we polish up. :uhoh:

How often do you work jumps a week?


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## BayBeams

Here is a simple method that both the person I train with (she's been training dogs for a lot longer than I have) and I use:

First teach the dog to "go around" a can, starting close, then progressively further away, having the dog eventually return to you in a front position.

Once the dog has done a zillion around the cans and is reliable, place the can about 8 feet from the end of the broad jump. Direct your dog to go around the can, standing close to the jump initially so the dog can't run around the jump. Eventually phase out the can and the dog will still go out straight over the jump.

Voila! In a few easy steps the dog learns to jump the broad jump with out cutting corners. It works great!


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## GoldenSail

Pesky BJ--I have been thinking about it now that this thread has resurfaced. Got a new idea I've been using quite well that could go with any of the training ideas listed. Basically, you put up chicken wire as an extension from the side of the jump and the dog has to jump and go around that. The benefit is that the dog cannot see it is there unlike a cone, and it is a natural correction (most dogs don't like to step on chicken wire).


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## Loisiana

I keep meaning to come add this post and keep forgetting to. I wanted to add that when I am first teaching a skill that involves jumping, or if I am working out a problem that has jumping, I will do lots of reps but with low jumps. Once the dog understands the exercise and we are at full height I only do a few jumps a week but I always do them at full height. 

I know a lot of people like to practice at a lower height so they can feel comfortable getting more reps in, but I want my dog to _know_ what I am expecting him to jump, not gauge it as he approaches.


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## Megora

That makes sense, Jodie<:

Right now we are doing 16" jumps every day. <- I actually measured last week instead of eyeballing. We do like 10 reps per day. The reps seems to work at building his (and my) confidence about the jumps. I'm concerned about building his muscles properly because of his hips. With the high jump he is still clearing it with plenty of air between him and the board, which is good to see.

I think I'll do this for a while and then bump him up to 20" and baby step up that way.


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