# Fixing Crooked Sit



## gdgli (Aug 24, 2011)

How have you fixed a crooked whistle sit? 

There is always more than one way to deal with an issue. I am curious as to what you have used. I have tried a couple of ways but I would like to hear what you have used.


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## gdgli (Aug 24, 2011)

Checking this thread. I see no ideas yet.

Perhaps forum members do not have a solution?


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## Vhuynh2 (Feb 13, 2012)

No ideas. I never got too picky with Molly because the whistle sit stressed her out. I did correct when her sits got too loopy. For crooked sits, she would always correct herself after the fact if I asked her too. I'd give her a little hand signal while saying "sit", almost like a come-in signal but not as "firm" if that makes sense, and she'd correct herself. If she was facing too left, I'd use my right hand, and vice versa. I think asking her to correct herself on crooked sits did lead to naturally straighter sits later on.


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## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

I'll chime in 

I start turn & sit work up close. In a corner is usually good, with a leash if you use one, free shaped if you don't. I start in my kitchen since it has a lot of available corners. Send and use their name for the turn, the turn has to be tight or the sit is not cued. This training takes place after your dog can sit at the same distance you are sending to.

I will also use platforms and/or agility pause tables but any fairly narrow type surface will work. The tight turn is also part of my dogs agility training - first on planks on the ground (think dogwalk planks, but a standard board 8-10 inches wide will do if there is good traction) and gradually raised. They also learn turning tightly around jump stanchions, tree trunks, cones etc.

A full tight turn, with a prompt sit will usually result in a fast straight sit  I would reset if the sit was not square enough.

That said, while Faelan was fairly good at handling at a distance when I gave away all my equipment, he probably ever only went a few hundred yards before the whistle blew - perhaps a long enough distance for what you are looking for ? The training above is based primarily on Utility work and agility work - same requirements, fast go, tight & fast turn, prompt sit. They were easily extended for the distances required for his field work.


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## gdgli (Aug 24, 2011)

Vhuynh2 said:


> No ideas. I never got too picky with Molly because the whistle sit stressed her out. I did correct when her sits got too loopy. For crooked sits, she would always correct herself after the fact if I asked her too. I'd give her a little hand signal while saying "sit", almost like a come-in signal but not as "firm" if that makes sense, and she'd correct herself. If she was facing too left, I'd use my right hand, and vice versa. I think asking her to correct herself on crooked sits did lead to naturally straighter sits later on.


I think that sounds pretty good. It is going into my notebook.


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## MillionsofPeaches (Oct 30, 2012)

I liked that Sunrise. I also like to start out in the house but I never thought to do that. I'm going to try it on my other dogs to see what they do! Definitely going into my pocket of tricks


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## gdgli (Aug 24, 2011)

Sunrise

I do like your way of teaching this.

Although I did not use a platform (I didn't know how when I did this) I must admit, it does cause the dog to give a square sit. I use one now for other purposes.

I did free shape after I got a consistent sit. I was new to this (free shaping) when I did it but I was surprised at how well it worked. My reward was of course the retrieve.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

I have a little drill I use during the teaching phase where I put the dog on a Flexi or long line, tell him to sit, and walk to his 3, 6, or 9 o'clock, blow the whistle, and he should spin in place and face me to sit. This is an easy thing to do and teaches them that the whistle means spin in place and sit, not come in or loop or anything else.
Later on in T work if the sit is really crooked I will run them dragging a long line, if they sit crooked at the intersection I will walk up, blow the whistle and tug on the long line to spin them around straight.
If that doesn't fix it up I will later give another whistle blast while bending forward slightly at the waist (small come-in signal) and give low collar pressure. Eventually they have to get collar pressure for this.
That being said, when they are finally running blinds I don't worry too much about crooked sits until the dog starts showing me that is a problem. That would be it snowballing into something bigger : loopy sits, blowing through whistles, autocasting, gazing, etc. The initial correction would be as listed above (another whistle, bend forward, slight nick) leading up to a bigger burn and revisit sit to pile.


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## FTGoldens (Dec 20, 2012)

I use a technique pretty much what K9D said .... 
If I get an unacceptable sit, I will blow a come-in whistle, followed by a quick blast once they move toward me. I don't typically use pressure unless my come-in whistle is ignored.
FTGoldens


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

FTGoldens said:


> I use a technique pretty much what K9D said ....
> If I get an unacceptable sit, I will blow a come-in whistle, followed by a quick blast once they move toward me. I don't typically use pressure unless my come-in whistle is ignored.
> FTGoldens


Right. I just blow the whistle once, because that means you better straighten up and sit. Small difference between that and the come-in whistle followed by another sit, some will work better for others.


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## krazybronco2 (May 21, 2015)

to be honest i dont thing i have ever worried about crooked sits (most likely becasue i didnt know any better). for me (this was a long while ago so a little foggy) but i felt like the crooked sits we corrected with corrections for whistle refusals.


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