# Impulse Control



## jackie_hubert (Jun 2, 2010)

I have had an epiphany - almost all my current struggles with Cosmo (leash pulling, lack of focus, problems during tracking) are hinging on his impulsiveness and lack of self-control (he is 13 month old after all). 

I've started focusing his daily training time on this issue specifically. We're off to a good start.

Here's some exercises we've been doing but I'd love to hear more about how you guys teach this very important but seemingly un-Golden skill.

1. Practice sitting in front of a door opening without going through until I do
2. Practice walking up and down stairs with him heeling
3. General practice heeling in higher distraction environments
4. Throwing a treat halfway between me and him and then asking him to come to me without picking up the treat on his way
5. Going to a busy area and just sitting on a bench


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## RedDogs (Jan 30, 2010)

Welcome to Dogwise.com

Most of the self control work I do with my dogs and in classes, we focus on the choices. The dogs initially have been making choices....poor ones. So we structure the activities so that the dog is most likely to be successful at all stages, however the dog -always- has the option. The moment where the dog makes the choice (walk past the distraction, turn away from the distraction, move past the food), THAT is when we reinforce on each repetition. We want to not make the dog respond at any stage, hold the dog in place, pull the dog away, and we don't even call the dog to us (unless we're doing recall!) if he turns away. We don't ask for a stay/have the dog stay during leave it exercises. We don't use cues in these challenge phases....we are giving the dog hard tasks. There is a small chance he could make an error. We do NOT want that error associated with our cue. 

Our keys to success: -- Get a good foundation....solid start to the behavior in a low distraction environment. The better the start, the more repetitions, the better it will go later. --- Reinforce the choice, not the completion of the behavior. --- Systematically increase the level of the challenge. --- NEVER use the handler body/presence/pressure to get a response or prevent a response. 

For every behavior we do in classes, we work up to higher levels of self control involved. But after you've done it for a few behaviors, teh dogs really start to generalize it the concept of "good choice".

Here's a clip of with my dog, addressing how he sometimes made poor choices while doing agility and seeing his best friends.




Initially our helper was standing still back by the tunnel. After a few reps she walked slowly back and forth, building up speed and then here we added in clapping. On the first repetition of clapping he came away, but it was hard, so we made it a bit easier. At one point you can see that he we had been making it too hard, he made the good choices but then he couldn't resist and went to jump on our helper. 

We work up to the person carrying things, offering food, tossing toys, running past, trying to get the dog away. But so gradual and at every stage, Im willing to bet money the dog will respond correctly.


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## fostermom (Sep 6, 2007)

Some good ideas RedDogs.

My Danny has very little impulse control when it comes to other dogs and children. Other dogs are harder then kids, though. He literally thinks every single dog he ever meets wants to be BFFs with him and can hardly contain himself. Fortunately, the only times I have trouble with him now is if he's off-leash. He's very good and well contained on leash. And he's 4 1/2 years old!


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## jackie_hubert (Jun 2, 2010)

Thanks! Sorry for not replying earlier. I wanted to discuss with hubby first. 

We structure a lot of activities the way you describe already. Essentially testing him in a situation that requires him to make choices, but setting up ones that are likely to lead to making the right choices, easy at first until a positive pattern has been established. We already reward slowing down and looking back at us before the leash gets taut for example.

Can you provide some examples of actual low distraction exercises?


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## FlyingQuizini (Oct 24, 2006)

I've found that shaping behaviors works really well for impulse control. Any of the "zen" type games work well too. Here's one:

If he's ball crazy... Go outside in an area where he's safe off leash. Set down a ball. Say nothing and start to walk away. He'll likely go for the ball. Say nothing. Calmly walk up to him, take it, put it back down, start to walk away. He'll likely go for it again. Say nothing. Talk the ball, put it back down, start to walk away. Repeat until he makes the slightest start of the choice to turn and go with you instead... i.e., he turns to look at you + maybe 1 step your direction. Mark that moment and tell him to get the ball. Have a little celebration and throw the ball for him.

Repeat.

Goal is for him to leave the ball automatically w/o you having to use a leave it cue. "To get the fun with the ball, you must leave the ball and focus on your human."

The hard part for the human is to remain quiet and not try and rely on previously taught cues like "leave it" and "come" or "heel" to get the dog to do what you want quicker. But the idea is that you want the dog to work out on his own that by delaying his gratification with the ball, YOU have the power to make the reward more fun.


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## RedDogs (Jan 30, 2010)

jackie_hubert said:


> Can you provide some examples of actual low distraction exercises?


Make a chart...5 columns...Column one is for low level distractions, the fifth for highest level. And fill in lots of things under each. 

Birds far away might be a 1, birds hopping nearby a 5....squirrels a 4, squirrels 50' away a 2...... go through the list..filling things in. 

Work on walking or response to name or somthing (one behavior is best per session...otherwise you'd be having too many pieces to focus on).... As you work on something...cross it off your list. When you've worked around the "1" items...then start working around the "2". ...etc. At every stage, you should be getting 90-100% correct repetitions...if you're gettting too many errors, go to an easier variation (add distance almost always works).


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