# Frustrated over finding a trainer



## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

I've been looking for someone to help me train my girl. I really would like her to get JH and SH. I don't feel like I can get that far on my own so I looked for a trainer. I found a couple that are exorbitantly expensive, but the real issue is, they keep your dog for several months during the training and I'm absolutely not doing that. Three-ish months ago we had a local trainer in the news, they were "well known" in the area and a video caught them lifting a dog by it's neck and slamming it to the ground and then kicking it in the stomach several times. The video was sickening and I don't care who anyone is, I won't leave my dog with someone. My dog won't be out of my sight, and besides, I want to learn too, not just have her trained and me be fumbling about trying to work with her. 

I'm just looking for a trainer that I meet with one to three times a week for a set time period, like a couple of hours, and we work on the skills needed. Doesn't this exist? Am I looking for something that isn't generally done? Do most leave their dogs somewhere for 2 or 3 months? Heck, I'd hire someone who isn't really a trainer if they've earned the titles for their dog and want to teach me what they did.


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## diane0905 (Aug 20, 2010)

I go with Logan to my trainer. I’m not a hunter. Just training for fun and to get the titles if we learn the required skills. We’ve been going once a week.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

diane0905 said:


> I go with Logan to my trainer. I’m not a hunter. Just training for fun and to get the titles if we learn the required skills. We’ve been going once a week.


I can't seem to find anyone that works that way. The trainers I've found around here have been "in house" trainers where they keep the dog. I can't do that.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

The best bet and IMO best option for you and your pup is to find an amateur group to train with. Look on Entry Express for nearby clubs. If contact club officers they may be able to connect you with experienced people close by. You are in Wisconsin right? Lots of Field trial and hunt test people there. Don't be intimidated about training with field trial folks. They are in general very knowledgeable and helpful. Training setups can easily be simplified for young or less experienced dogs.

If you are dedicated, show up regularly and are willing to throw birds many amateur groups wold be happy to have you join in.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

I suggest you find people in your area who have put JH's or even SH's on their dogs + seem like very good people with the dogs, and ask them for tips on where to go. Do not stick with golden people necessarily. 

Have found FCR owners/trainers are more open and friendly and less "religious" about the sport that is holier than thou than golden people can be.


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## DblTrblGolden2 (Aug 22, 2018)

I don't send my dogs away to the trainer unless there is something very specific that they need them for. For example, last year my pond wasn't in yet and Cruz was at the point he needed to do swim bys. I left him with my trainer for 2 weeks and during those two weeks I still kept my normal private training appointment and my group training day, so I still saw him and handled him. I do a weekly private training session and then I do at least two group training days a week. I am fortunate that I have grounds, a pond now, and equipment to have training at home.

@SRW is exactly right. You need to be willing to join a group and throw birds for all of their dogs so that they will help you. You will find good people that are more then willing to help. You will also learn a ton by watching how other people work through problems and handle situations. It takes people to have good training days. You also benefit from training on different grounds.

I like Bill Hillman's video series. I think it's more easily understandable for beginners then some of the others I have had over the years. 

Most hunt/field trainers are board and train, but they also will work with you if they know you will put the work in. I may be my trainers only client that does privates and trains at home. He appreciates that I want to do it myself. I'm also sure I drive him crazy somedays, but oh well. I've seen a lot of dogs that work for the trainer and won't work for the owner.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Megora said:


> Do not stick with golden people necessarily.


I would even advise avoiding them. (I do)


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

SRW said:


> The best bet and IMO best option for you and your pup is to find an amateur group to train with. Look on Entry Express for nearby clubs. If contact club officers they may be able to connect you with experienced people close by. You are in Wisconsin right? Lots of Field trial and hunt test people there. Don't be intimidated about training with field trial folks. They are in general very knowledgeable and helpful. Training setups can easily be simplified for young or less experienced dogs.
> 
> If you are dedicated, show up regularly and are willing to throw birds many amateur groups wold be happy to have you join in.


Unfortunately I don't think I can throw birds at all due to a serious shoulder injury. (Long story short both shoulders were injured and part of my collar bone is now only soft tissue from the trauma.) I might be able to chuck one a couple of feet at best.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Hildae said:


> Unfortunately I don't think I can throw birds at all due to a serious shoulder injury. (Long story short both shoulders were injured and part of my collar bone is now only soft tissue from the trauma.) I might be able to chuck one a couple of feet at best.


I would still try to find an amateur group, most are very understanding. There may be other things you can do to contribute.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

Hi! Okay first off, obvious question, where do you live?
Here are my observations as an amateur trainer and now considered a "pro" since I take money to board and train, and teach lessons and classes.
1 - Field work takes a lot of time. It takes an hour (or more) to drive to train. It takes at least half an hour to set up. It takes 3 hours to throw for all of your friends' dogs. It takes 5 minutes to run your dog. You spend another half an hour breaking down and packing up, and an hour to drive back home. So that's 6 hours to run your dog once. Doesn't obedience sound nice right about now?
2 - Field work is expensive. See #1. You also need a decent vehicle that will hold a dog in a crate. You will need some equipment (hunt tests are the worst and require lots of equipment). You will need a freezer to keep birds. You will spend a lot of money in gas. 
3 - Field work is difficult. If it was easy, everyone would do it. You can be a weekend warrior and do JH & WC but you won't get any farther unless you train 3-5 days a week at least. It is not intuitive. It is not linear. Any attempt to reinvent the wheel is going to lead to frustration, and it takes most people 2-3 dogs to figure out if they stick with an established training method with a track record of success, they will be farther along quicker than if they wing it. New people also have a tendency to believe every quirk their dog has in training is completely novel and absolutely non-negotiable, un-surmountable. This is untrue. Dogs all do the same things. You must be willing to realize that your dog is NOT the first dog to ever do whatever weird thing he's doing, to open your ears and shut your mouth and SEEK HELP AND FOLLOW ADVICE.
4 - You cannot do field work alone. You MUST find people to train with, or hire people to throw for you. You can buy all the wingers in the world but they take more time and effort than rounding up humans, plus they are more expensive. (I hate electronic throwing devices, and don't use them.) 
5 - If you want to be in an amateur group, you must be able to contribute. The biggest thing you can do is show up and throw birds. If you cannot throw a decent bird, you must step up and make yourself worthwhile. Bring a thrower (husbands are great at this). Bring lunch and a cooler. Hang birds. Plant blinds. DO SOMETHING. Nothing will get you un-invited faster than being nothing but a taker at a training group. I have trained with people who can't throw, and don't make an effort to bring a thrower, and it's a complete waste of time for me and my dogs.
6 - The biggest hurdle to field training is not time, money, equipment, human or land resources, it's KNOW HOW. You know why pros are so good? Because they've trained a hundred more dogs than you. They've already made the mistakes and hopefully learned from them. They can see a problem before it starts and know what to do about it. If you don't know, you don't know. Continual searching for knowledge is absolutely essential.

Regarding board and train situations, yes it's very popular because few people can do all of the above and train their own dogs themselves very well! Some may have the time, money and desire and then turns out they're just not that good at it! It's WAY LESS wear and tear on you, your resources and YOUR DOG to go to a competent trainer. I take board and train dogs. They have the time of their lives here. They are RELIEVED to be trained by someone who knows what they are doing. Their learning is greatly accelerated. They love going to camp and are well taken care of. I can find you plenty examples of bad or harmful trainers. Just like I can find bad examples of policemen, coaches, airplane pilots, firefighters and sub sandwich makers. That doesn't mean they are all bad. 
Having that said, training dogs for a living is a TON OF WORK. I can train six dogs in the hour it takes me to teach one lesson to one person with one dog. That is why few pros teach lessons, they can't charge enough to make it worth their time or teach lessons AND train their boarding dogs. It's not because they are snooty or anything else, there just aren't enough hours in the day. If you can find one that teaches lessons, good on you (and them). 
Most of my board and train dogs are for 2-3 month windows and I can tell you...that's NOT a lot of time to get very much done. 6 months is more reasonable. Two months gives you just about enough time to get the dog acclimated to his new routine and discover all the training problems the owner caused and start to formulate a plan to fix them. Then the owner takes them back home and wrecks it all again. Pretty frustrating. 

Best of luck.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

K9-Design said:


> Hi! Okay first off, obvious question, where do you live?
> Here are my observations as an amateur trainer and now considered a "pro" since I take money to board and train, and teach lessons and classes.
> 1 - Field work takes a lot of time. It takes an hour (or more) to drive to train. It takes at least half an hour to set up. It takes 3 hours to throw for all of your friends' dogs. It takes 5 minutes to run your dog. You spend another half an hour breaking down and packing up, and an hour to drive back home. So that's 6 hours to run your dog once. Doesn't obedience sound nice right about now?
> 2 - Field work is expensive. See #1. You also need a decent vehicle that will hold a dog in a crate. You will need some equipment (hunt tests are the worst and require lots of equipment). You will need a freezer to keep birds. You will spend a lot of money in gas.
> ...


I appreciate the time you took to type all that out, but...I hope you understand that having a disability that makes me unable to throw or do certain things doesn't make me a worthless person or a waste of time. I'm a human being with a limitation that I had no say in, and that I don't particularly enjoy either, so to dismiss me and act as though I'm just a burden because I might slow you down or don't have "enough to offer" to make my presence worth your while is insulting. People who have that attitude are why it's really hard for me to consider joining groups because too many people are focused on "what benefit are you to me?" That's exactly why I want to pay someone to work with us one on one, I don't want have to be shamed for having physical limitations. The things that happened to me weren't my choice. I do the best I can with what I have, and I'm not trying to interfere with anyone else and their goals, I'm just trying to achieve mine too. I am not trying to be a "taker." 

Also to be clear, I'm not looking to become a hardcore competitor. I just want JH, maybe SH. I want my dog to be a good duck retriever, and to have fun.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

Well that is what you read into me saying do something else to make yourself a valuable member of a training group if you can't throw. However, that is NOT what I said.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

SRW said:


> I would still try to find an amateur group, most are very understanding. There may be other things you can do to contribute.


I'll look into it, I'm not sure it's possible but I'll see what comes up.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

K9-Design said:


> Well that is what you read into me saying do something else to make yourself a valuable member of a training group if you can't throw. However, that is NOT what I said.


It's an overall impression. I am aware that training isn't easy, and costs money and takes time. But I can only do what I can. Because people with physical limitations are often treated as a burden, we get used to "staying out of the way." As I said, one of the reasons I've not tried to join a group is to avoid being treated as though I am a drag on everyone else. I don't know if I can physically do enough to make people happy so I avoid situations where I might inconvenience others. I don't want to ruin anything for anyone else, but I also want to do things too, which is why private training is the ideal situation. That way I'm not struggling to prove I have some value to a group while also trying to learn.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Hildae - where are you located? Maybe somebody could offer recommendations?



K9-Design said:


> 5 - If you want to be in an amateur group, you must be able to contribute. The biggest thing you can do is show up and throw birds. If you cannot throw a decent bird, you must step up and make yourself worthwhile. Bring a thrower (husbands are great at this). Bring lunch and a cooler. Hang birds. Plant blinds. DO SOMETHING. Nothing will get you un-invited faster than being nothing but a taker at a training group. I have trained with people who can't throw, and don't make an effort to bring a thrower, and it's a complete waste of time for me and my dogs.


Anney - one thing that rattles around my head (yes, which is mostly empty when it comes to field  ) when it comes to field folks....

For conformation - I'm told come and hang out, watch and listen. A lot of sitting at ringside watching handling. A lot of lurking in the grooming area to learn how to prep.

For obedience - it's basically the same thing. It's always, come to a class and watch - see if it's something you want to do. Watch the OTCH trainers, etc.

Field - first thing a complete newbie is told is "come, we will put you to work throwing birds". The first reaction is always - wha-wha? And probably an unspoken "_but why are they throwing birds????"_


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

Of course anyone who is interested can come and watch. But if you're there to train your dog, you have to give back to the group. I want my bird boys (aka training partners) to be GOOD -- they are a vital part of each dog's training, and in many cases their actions are as important to the dog as his handler's -- so trust me I'm not handing a complete novice a bag of birds and telling them to get out there. But if you want into a training group, you are going to have to participate.
And maybe I didn't make it clear in my previous post, of course if you don't want to spend all day at a training group or have to throw birds or whatever, you are right to be prepared to pay for one-on-one instructions. That's why included that it's difficult to find pros to instruct you because taking time out of their day to give a lesson to ONE person is very inefficient for their business. It's not to say it's impossible to find someone to teach lessons, or that anyone teaching lessons isn't otherwise busy -- I teach field lessons and LOVE IT -- but it's not someone standing on any street corner.
The OP would get a lot more mileage out of this thread if she would....post her location


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

K9-Design said:


> But if you want into a training group, you are going to have to participate.


I think that is fair - 

I guess for obedience or even conformation... if doing open floor with others.... before you ask somebody else to help you with something, you gotta be ready to offer help to them in return. Good example is setting articles out for people, trading moving SFE's, or even like the last open floor - I played conformation judge for somebody who I wanted to video my dog and give me feedback. This person is somebody who seriously should become a judge in any sport she participates in - she's put a CH on her dog in every sport possible. So it was an honor to play judge for her in return for help. 

I'm imagining that's what you and others mean when you suggest people come and throw birds, etc... it's pretty fair in return for help. It just seems really weird because a lot of people have never actually seen any field work in person. That's something that wouldn't be the case for open floor in obedience or whatnot where you know what you're doing a little bit....


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

A good group is an essential part of field training. That said it is entirely possible to train a dog to JR, SR and even MH level even for someone that can only train with a group occasionally. 
The hard part is learning how to train. The second hardest part is it is a lot of physical work training alone.


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## PalouseDogs (Aug 14, 2013)

Anney summed up the issues with field training pretty well, except that, for more, the training grounds are 2.5 hours one-way. 

Unlike Anney, I do use electronic wingers and I usually train alone. Yes, it is a pain and it is expensive. You also need to be able to lug wingers around and have enough shoulder strength in at least one arm to stretch the elastic. 

You must train in a group at least often enough for your dog to see human throwers and other excited dogs. The advantage of working alone is that you will not have the pressure of other training group members waiting to run their own dogs. You can ponder the problems that arise without getting flustered. Also remember that, while it's true that you can find lots of people that have trained many dogs, it's also true that many of those people have trained many dogs badly and, unless you have the opportunity to watch many people handle their dogs, as a novice, you may not be able to separate the good from the bad trainers. I heard, and unfortunately took, a lot of bad advice with my first dog. 

A good way to start would be to find a hunt club somewhere within a 4-hour training radius that has training days. You could even just go watch and leave your dog behind. Hunt club "training" days really don't involve much training. It's usually a long line people waiting to take their turn at 3 marks. It's a good way to meet a few people in your area that do hunt training, maybe to ask about local trainers who would take you on, and to get your dog more used to working around other people and dogs. 

A big question is to ask yourself how badly you want this. I do, or have done, obedience, agility, and hunt training. I started in obedience, grumbling about the price of a couple of jumps, articles, and ring gates and the time it takes to set up a couple of jumps and ring gates. Then I got into agility, where the set-up time and equipment costs (if you don't have access to a training facility) make obedience look like a super bargain. Then I got sucked into hunt training, where set-up time, equipment, drive time, etc. make agility look cheap. It's a good thing I don't have kids to send to college.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

If you've never seen field work, well then I guess a local hunt test or field trial would be a great place to start. You wouldn't show up at open floor if you'd never trained obedience.


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## diane0905 (Aug 20, 2010)

I was actually wondering what throwing birds meant also. We've been putting them into a catapult contraption and sending them flying. I have not joined a club and appreciate the tip. I find this fun and think we want to keep going beyond JH -- not assuming we will get that one easily. I've been volunteering at trials for rally, obedience, and agility. I figured I'd get to know people that way and the help is appreciated.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

PalouseDogs said:


> it's true that you can find lots of people that have trained many dogs, it's also true that many of those people have trained many dogs badly


A very real problem. The worst part is that poor trainers usually think they are great trainers and novice trainers may not know the difference until there is a lot of time wasted and possibly even damage done.
The problem is more common among hunt test trainers as even poor trainers can attain some success. In field trials the competition filters out most poor trainers.


diane0905 said:


> I was actually wondering what throwing birds meant also. We've been putting them into a catapult contraption and sending them flying.


"Throwing birds" is literally that. The "catapult contraption" is called a winger. They are, at best, a necessary evil IMO.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

K9-Design said:


> And maybe I didn't make it clear in my previous post, of course if you don't want to spend all day at a training group or have to throw birds or whatever, you are right to be prepared to pay for one-on-one instructions.


I am prepared, I just haven't found anyone yet. I got a lead today, I'll try that out tomorrow.


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## busydoinnothin (Jan 3, 2022)

cant delete posts, so blergy bop.


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## xRoan (Jul 7, 2021)

Hildae said:


> It's an overall impression. I am aware that training isn't easy, and costs money and takes time. But I can only do what I can. Because people with physical limitations are often treated as a burden, we get used to "staying out of the way." As I said, one of the reasons I've not tried to join a group is to avoid being treated as though I am a drag on everyone else. I don't know if I can physically do enough to make people happy so I avoid situations where I might inconvenience others. I don't want to ruin anything for anyone else, but I also want to do things too, which is why private training is the ideal situation. That way I'm not struggling to prove I have some value to a group while also trying to learn.


Re: needing to participate in trials, there is much more to a trial than tossing birds. I've only volunteered at a couple and I've done anything from hanging birds, to putting birds in bags for transport, to throwing birds, blowing the duck call & popping the air cannon off, or simply riding an ATV around between runs bringing the volunteers water. We have a couple of gentleman in wheelchairs that assist us quite easily. Depending on the club, you can also help make lunches, work the running order board, etc.

The same goes for training. There is always SOME way you can help and it doesn't have to be physically challenging. I do understand where you're coming from, though. While I'm not disabled I am one of the youngest and one of the only females in the club & frequently get asked if I'm sure I can handle a task or if [insert strong, burly adult man] needs to come help. Just tell them to kick dirt & continue doing what you're doing.


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## MintChip (Feb 26, 2021)

Hildae said:


> I've been looking for someone to help me train my girl. I really would like her to get JH and SH. I don't feel like I can get that far on my own so I looked for a trainer. I found a couple that are exorbitantly expensive, but the real issue is, they keep your dog for several months during the training and I'm absolutely not doing that. Three-ish months ago we had a local trainer in the news, they were "well known" in the area and a video caught them lifting a dog by it's neck and slamming it to the ground and then kicking it in the stomach several times. The video was sickening and I don't care who anyone is, I won't leave my dog with someone. My dog won't be out of my sight, and besides, I want to learn too, not just have her trained and me be fumbling about trying to work with her.
> 
> I'm just looking for a trainer that I meet with one to three times a week for a set time period, like a couple of hours, and we work on the skills needed. Doesn't this exist? Am I looking for something that isn't generally done? Do most leave their dogs somewhere for 2 or 3 months? Heck, I'd hire someone who isn't really a trainer if they've earned the titles for their dog and want to teach me what they did.


Following. I'm in the same boat. I'd rather work with the trainer. Isn't it about training the human, anyway?


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## green branch (Oct 24, 2020)

Cyber communication leads to misunderstanding. It doesn't look to me that anyone here was trying to be rude. We are new to field training. We have taken some classes and enjoyed them a lot. There was a person in the group who had a hard time moving and everyone was willing to help with whatever was needed. There is always something valuable that each person can bring to the group; it doesn't have to be throwing bumpers. When people make posts on a forum, they often make statements that apply in general. In person, it becomes much more natural to take special circumstances into account. Field classes are slow paced and you learn a lot from watching other dogs run. So, I would give classes/groups a chance. And yes, it is about training a human. I feel that once you have an idea of what is required, and there is something challenging for you and the dog, then reaching out to a trainer for a consultation can be beneficial.


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

1. You will probably have to travel a long ways. When I go, I have to drive 2 hours to get there and only get 5, maybe 10, minutes of actual work. 
2. Field training is expensive. The collar the trainer advised that I buy was over $100. His prices were VERY reasonable. He has retired from training sessions though.
3. Find a local GR club or Hunting Retriever club. If you can't throw, they might ask you to help in another way. (I've been in charge of shooting a pistol with blanks) 
4. If you only want to train casually, there's nothing wrong with that. You can get a JH and/or WC If you want a SH or WCX, you will have to work harder for it. 
5. You can look up a test and go watch to see exactly what it entails.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

DevWind said:


> The collar the trainer advised that I buy was over $100.


Good e-collars for field training are $300 - $400.

Yes it can get expensive, many hobbies are. Then again I know any people that pay over $200 a month for TV, eat at restaurants 4 or 5 times a week, make payments on boats and motorcycles that never leave the garage, feed horses they never ride.................


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

SRW said:


> Good e-collars for field training are $300 - $400.
> 
> Yes it can get expensive, many hobbies are. Then again I know any people that pay over $200 a month for TV, eat at restaurants 4 or 5 times a week, make payments on boats and motorcycles that never leave the garage, feed horses they never ride.................


Oof! I guess you're right! It's been years ago that I bought it. Just looked them up. Mine is a Garmin Pro 70. $300. I did get it at a good price through rebates and a Cabela's Club offer so I didn't pay $300 for it. Kicker is I haven't used it in a long time. Winx was collar conditioned but I can't train her because she's my granddaughter's 4-H dog and they have strict rules. Pilot isn't. Just haven't needed it for him since I can only casually train field. He's a bit of a softie too....I'm told it's my fault and it could be but I love him just how he is!


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## MintChip (Feb 26, 2021)

DevWind said:


> Oof! I guess you're right! It's been years ago that I bought it. Just looked them up. Mine is a Garmin Pro 70. $300. I did get it at a good price through rebates and a Cabela's Club offer so I didn't pay $300 for it. Kicker is I haven't used it in a long time. Winx was collar conditioned but I can't train her because she's my granddaughter's 4-H dog and they have strict rules. Pilot isn't. Just haven't needed it for him since I can only casually train field. He's a bit of a softie too....I'm told it's my fault and it could be but I love him just how he is!


Can you explain softie? Softie meaning shuts down with harsh punishment? Or something else? I'm on old retriever forums and it is intrresting what folks say about goldens.


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## xRoan (Jul 7, 2021)

MintChip said:


> Can you explain softie? Softie meaning shuts down with harsh punishment? Or something else? I'm on old retriever forums and it is intrresting what folks say about goldens.


Soft, in my limited experience, just means that you need to use less pressure to correct a dog, sometimes no pressure at all. They tend to respond better to vocal corrections and, yes, will sometimes shut down if the pressure or correction is too much. Every dog is different. My Golden is about as bull headed as they come, very confident. I’ve met a couple that catch “looks” from their trainers and know— they don’t even need a verbal.


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

MintChip said:


> Can you explain softie? Softie meaning shuts down with harsh punishment? Or something else? I'm on old retriever forums and it is intrresting what folks say about goldens.


For him it means that he's a sensitive boy. What is harsh to him is very different from harsh to a bolder dog. I have never needed to actually punish him for anything. A small correction is all he needs. So he will get a "you're wrong" with me helping him to do the right thing. Chain and prong collars aren't a problem for him. He gets a very small pop when I use a chain. He doesn't shut down...he channels his inner border collie and sulks. Overall, he is the sweetest boy ever and will do pretty much anything I ask him to do. 

Then there's hard but soft. My girl needs a harsh correction immediately followed by praise when she is right again. A little harder to train but still fun.


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

xRoan said:


> Soft, in my limited experience, just means that you need to use less pressure to correct a dog, sometimes no pressure at all. They tend to respond better to vocal corrections and, yes, will sometimes shut down if the pressure or correction is too much. Every dog is different. My Golden is about as bull headed as they come, very confident. I’ve met a couple that catch “looks” from their trainers and know— they don’t even need a verbal.


You are correct. Some shut down, some sulk. He is pretty confident. Just doesn't need a lot of correction.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

I forgot to update but I think I finally found someone who private trains! They don't keep your dog, you can be there for and participate in the training and the driving distance is doable. Hopefully I'll be able to update as we go.


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## Hildae (Aug 15, 2012)

I wanted to update again that we had a first day with the trainer. It went so well. Apparently our home efforts paid off because the trainer was impressed with what she knows so far and how well she did. Not saying she's ready for a hunt test or anything but her obedience was on point, her willingness to fetch and heel and deliver to hand were also very good. Needless to say I was so proud of her.  I was very intimidated though when I walked in and saw walls of ribbons from field trials and hunt tests. I hope we earn one, one day!


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