# Which hand for rewarding and signals



## KaMu (May 17, 2010)

Since I am easily confused and really want to be doing the right thing without confusing Roxy during our training, I'd appreciate advice. 

If I am holding the leash with my right hand, which hand should I be using for hand signals and which for treats to reward? I know it sounds simple enough. But I find myself using different hands at different times.

Is there a correct way, or is it just preference? I am right handed


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

I hold the leash and treats in the left hand and do hand signals with the right hand. <- Although, when I start doing the hand signals, I give the treat with the right hand. That way my dog is watching the signal hand.

The reason why I do the treats and leash in the left hand is because I want my guy on my left side while we train. Giving treats with your right hand pulls them forward out of heel position, because they are looking for treats. That's for training. Obviously, if we are just walking or whatever, it doesn't matter. Whatever side he's walking on, I usually switch the leash to that hand.


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## KaMu (May 17, 2010)

ok....with obedience is it a goal to only use verbal comands?




Maybe that is where I'm getting confused as I'm holding the leash in my right hand ... hmmm? BTW..This is for obedience training


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## RedDogs (Jan 30, 2010)

For manners training or for competition training?

If it's manners training... it's up to you and whatever is easiest for you and you can even alternate like you have been.

Where you feed is more important than the hand.


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## KaMu (May 17, 2010)

RedDogs...we are doing obedience training...I have not quite decided if I want to continue on with competition but won't rule it out at this point...We enjoy it too much to just stop training 

I wanted to add that my fingers are somewhat arthritic so it is at times difficult to maneuver the leash and treats in one hand..


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## RedDogs (Jan 30, 2010)

Competition training is different and you should probably talk to your instructor.

If this is manners/ basic obedience... it's more about what goes well for you.

For competition obedience there are times when you need verbal cues and times when you need visual cues. But you don't always need both for every behavior (...if you have a visual stand cue you're good).


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

RedDogs said:


> Where you feed is more important than the hand.


Yep... I always treat the dog in the heel position when we are working on heeling/sits. 

For comes and fronts, some people spit the treats out of their mouths, because it rewards the perfect sit/focus from the dog (centered + looking up). 

With obedience work... you use both verbal and nonverbal commands. And sometimes it's a good idea to teach your dog the hand signals, especially when you get in a position where you can't shout at your dog to sit, lie down, or stay. 

In the show ring you can't use a verbal command or a hand signal for the sits/halts, but there are other points where you are using both. Like with the downs (down stay) you use both. And stay and wait commands are both verbal and have a hand signal. And I have a hand signal for the stand as well. 

On the side - I have two hand signals for sits. Pointed finger to get a sit from a standing position. Upwards hand sweep to get a sit from a down. <- Not used in the show ring, but it's kinda good for him to know.


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## KaMu (May 17, 2010)

Megora said:


> Yep... I always treat the dog in the heel position when we are working on heeling/sits.
> 
> 
> With obedience work... you use both verbal and nonverbal commands. And sometimes it's a good idea to teach your dog the hand signals, especially when you get in a position where you can't shout at your dog to sit, lie down, or stay.
> ...






ok.........so I'm obviously pretty inexperienced, but I'll not let that hold me back  I'm learning. I do ask my instructor these same questions, I dont always remember her answers. I do end up asking the same questions multiple times. I am not embarrased by that, it is just how I am  I ask here on the forum because I can reread the replys as often as I like and practice.

See now the two hand signals makes sense so I will incorporate that into my training. I may be getting ahead of myself but I want to know these things. If I had the time Id do formal training several times a week.

Im sorry if I ask simple questions but I do crave answers and respect those that take the time in answering


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## zephyr (Sep 29, 2009)

I always keep treats in my left hand (and retrieve new ones from my left pocket), while holding the leash (and clicker!! :doh in my right hand.

For me this is because it was pointed out to me during obedience class that if the treats are coming from your right hand (other side of your body), the dog will be more likely to creep or "swing out" in front of you when in heel position ... since it's hard (for me anyway!) to always get your right hand all the way on left side of your body when treating.

Also it is sort of tricky to reward WHILE heeling if you're trying to reach your right hand across your body as you move forward. Unless maybe you have longer arms that I do :

But that still takes a lot of concentration for ME to do easily, since I always USED to treat with my right hand (I'm right-handed!) and hold the leash in my left hand. I just wished I had started practicing the other way earlier!


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## KaMu (May 17, 2010)

Zephr....See that is exactly what is causing me so much trouble. I treat mostly with the left (makes sense) and with the leash in my right. I also try and do the hand signals with the right, than the leash gets all caught up and I'm a mess, not to mention the poor dog who does an excellent job of trying to figure out what her trainer really wants  The clicker might work better in that whole scenario, but its not for me (clicker). Im lucky I can chew gum and walk:doh:


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## zephyr (Sep 29, 2009)

KaMu said:


> Zephr....See that is exactly what is causing me so much trouble. I treat mostly with the left (makes sense) and with the leash in my right. I also try and do the hand signals with the right, than the leash gets all caught up and I'm a mess, not to mention the poor dog who does an excellent job of trying to figure out what her trainer really wants  The clicker might work better in that whole scenario, but its not for me (clicker). Im lucky I can chew gum and walk:doh:


I totally understand! 

OKAY I actually had to get out my leash & clicker and actually go through the motions :, but I took some pictures of how *I* hold everything and SORT OF make hand signals:














(Oscar is very curious whether this means he is going to get some treats!)

I put my hand through the leash loop, then wrap it once around my hand about halfway down the leash (because 5' is too long, otherwise he'll just trip). Then I put the clicker in the palm of my hand.

Having a skinny leash is definitely better than a bulky leash!

Like this, I can make (at least versions of) my 3 main hand signals: sit (fingers together, pointed up), down (I point down at the ground), and stand (two fingers together in a bar, pointed away from me). The 2nd picture shows my "stand" signal (sort of).

Though I had a heck of a time trying to teach an around-finish with this leash-clicker system because I needed to switch the leash between hands... so at home we do most things off-leash so I can at least click and treat to teach him, and then later add the leash back in when I don't have to click/treat so often.

BUT... I suppose, in practice I pretty much always use a verbal command when I'm training like this, so the hand signals aren't as important. But I always try to mix it up at different times, and do some signal-only or verbal-only sessions to make sure he knows what they mean!


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

You can also take the leash off when you are training in a low distraction area. <- That's about the only way I managed to handle clicker training when I was going to a clicker class. Otherwise, I felt like I needed to start using my toes as an extra hand.  

Uhm - 

I use a 4 foot (I put a knot in so it's closer to being 3 foot) leather leash for training. And that way I can just slip my hand through the loop and not worry about holding a bunch of leash. 

The hand signals - it doesn't matter which you use, as long as you are consistant. 

For stand (for example), I originally taught the hand signal holding a treat with my first three fingers of my right hand and sweeping it forward out in front of my dog's nose while I said "stand". This got my dog up on his feet and reaching his head forward for the treat. I weaned off using a treat, but I still hold the first three fingers the same way. 

Other people I know just sweep their hand forward as the hand signal for stand. I guess it goes with the hand sweep downward (down), hand sweep sideways (to get the dog to move around or back into heel position), etc...


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## jweisman54 (May 22, 2010)

KaMu said:


> Zephr....See that is exactly what is causing me so much trouble. I treat mostly with the left (makes sense) and with the leash in my right. I also try and do the hand signals with the right, than the leash gets all caught up and I'm a mess, not to mention the poor dog who does an excellent job of trying to figure out what her trainer really wants  The clicker might work better in that whole scenario, but its not for me (clicker). Im lucky I can chew gum and walk:doh:


I find it easier to hold the leash in my right hand while my left arm is down (while walking) and having a treat in the left hand and if she is looking up at me while we are walking nicely I say "yes" which is the cue and then give her a treat. For sitting I give my hand signal then say "yes" then treat, same thing for down, sit and stay and down and stay. When I throw the ball for Izzy to retrieve and she comes bombing back at me, I have her sit in front of me and drop the ball, but I don't give her a treat. I just praise and praise. I guess everyone has their own way to train and reward.

~Joyce


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