# Loose leash training



## Mich (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok.... I'm nearly at the end of my patients and reaching out for some advice, encouragement or something. I have been watching loose leash training videos and trying soooo hard to train Maggie (1yr+ old, adopted about 2 months ago) to walk on a leash without pulling my shoulder out of socket. I love the training videos by Zak George on YouTube, he recently did yet another leash training video with a squirley pit bull at an animal shelter (among others) and his method seems to work. It's non aggressive, all positive reinforcement, no choke chains or pinch type collars. I've tried a halti but she'll just pull her face off trying to run. I've tried no-pull harnesses which just seem to give her the full strength of her chest to pull like a work horse. She was doing well in the backyard early on but as soon as u so much as try to go out into the driveway she goes nuts again. Now that spring is here training anything is near impossible due to every little bug, bird, rodent or even noises of children playing on the street. She was having some success with fetch as well but like the leash training she's completely lost interest regardless of what type of reward I use. After months of trying and no progress I'm soooo frustrated  

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## Anon-2130948gsoni (Apr 12, 2014)

Can you enroll her in a training class where you can get some in-person help? Every dog is different and I know how hard it can be to retrain a puller. The good news is that she's still young so it's a habit that should eventually respond to training. 

With my latest rescue what finally worked was a combination of a front-attachment harness combined with a training collar and lots of practice with a clicker and treats. But as you know, it takes time, and having someone there to help you address the issue would probably help both of you.


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## tine434 (Nov 24, 2013)

Have you tried the rapid reward method? a forum member sent me the link...

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## tine434 (Nov 24, 2013)

http://www.goldenretrieverforum.com/showthread.php?t=238561

Go down the first page, the video links are posted. Worked amazing. Slow process 

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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

I train with corrections and that seems to stop the pulling with walks (otherwise, I would not be able to handle two adult golden boys). That's not going to help you if you do not use corrections or are not taking classes somewhere where they teach you how to correct properly.

So the one important thing I do suggest is putting a regular buckle collar on your dog, walking a good enough distance for your dog every day (mine do fine with 3 mile daily walks), walk in the quiet hours of the day (late in the evening, early in the morning, etc).

Ignore your dog when he//she pulls. Praise and make a big deal when he/she settles back into a nice loose leash walk.


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## olliversmom (Mar 13, 2013)

I recommend a good class or two. It is one thing to learn techniques, but a good trainer can observe you and pup and give pointers on what u need work on. Also, a lot of the walking problems are dealing with distractions. Classes help that as the dogs are put together with other dogs and need to learn to work in spite of them.
My Olliver is 14 months. He is doing wonderfully on loose leash walking. He has been trained using positive methods/reward based training only. 
We recently adopted another teen Golden, that had no training of any sort at all. He was a monster on lead at first. I use the no pull front clasp harness and that helps a lot. As well, I am working independently with him right now, using the methods I taught Olliver. He is doing great.
99% of the time it is me and the two large boys. We walk everyday. I find that Olliver helps ground Tyson and Tyson is following Ollie's lead. One of the things that really worked for Olliver, was everytime he turned to look back at me while walking, reward and verbally praise. Now I just need to whisper Olliver's name and he turns and heels. Tyson is catching on to that as well. He definitely would benefit from formal training with the distractions tho. It gets a little hairy when we see other dogs. He is a bit reactive. Getting better tho with practice.
Good luck.


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## lgnutah (Feb 26, 2007)

I too had difficulty when brooks hit about 6 months of age he suddenly forgot all he used to know about walking nicely ( my jerked arm, sore shoulder and numb hands sent me to the chiropractor). I finally got the gentle leader which was what saved me from further injury. it wasnt til he was outmof his adolescence that he finally could walk calmly again.


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## BriGuy (Aug 31, 2010)

What are you using for treats? It might just be that you need to up the value of the reward, at least until you get some good repetitions in.


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## Leslie B (Mar 17, 2011)

The teenage dog brain is a lot like a human teenager - high energy, easily distracted, full of themselves, and they want what they can see/smell RIGHT NOW. All of this makes it hard for them to focus on the keeping a loose leash with their owner. Plus, the need for real exercise is increased at this age. Don't fool yourself into thinking that a walk is meaningful exercise for a golden. They need to run.

I suggest that you change your mentality of the walk being about getting exercise to training time. Use the fenced in back yard (or a long line) and spend 15 minutes before your walk throwing a ball/toy/bumper and getting your dog to run. This will drain some of that energy. Be sure to keep him moving during this exercise session.

It is key to remember that going in the direction that the dog is pulling is reinforcing the pull. 

When you start your walk/training session expect that you wont get very far. You might never leave the sight of your house and the neighbors migh think it an odd walk but if will make an impact on the dog. Pick a direction and as soon as the dog hits the end of the leash you are going to turn and walk - fast - in the direction you came from. No words, no waiting for him to come with you, no coaxing, just go. He can catch up just fine. 

Most dogs quickly readjust to the new direction and end up in front and pulling within a few steps. Repeat. Remind yourself that going in the direction that he is pulling only reinforces the pull. He needs to learn that you are in charge of where you go, how fast you go, and when you stop to sniff or pee. It is his job to follow you and not the other way around.

When he slows down and looks a little puzzled at you then you can reward and talk to him. At this point he will dash to you for the reward and then most likely leap to the end of the leash to pull in the new direction. Turn and go back the other way.

Lots of repetitions and don't worry the neighbors think you belong in a pinball gallery.


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## gldnboys (Mar 15, 2012)

Leslie B said:


> It is key to remember that going in the direction that the dog is pulling is reinforcing the pull.


This is a very important point, and one that a lot of owners tend not to realize. By continuing to go in the direction in which the dog is pulling, you might as well be praising them; they figure that since the pulling behaviour is getting them to where they want to go, it's perfectly fine. 

It's also helpful if, as Leslie said, you don't worry about what anyone else thinks. The results will speak for themselves, and if you're really consistent about never, ever allowing the dog to pull, you shouldn't have to repeat the turning-around exercise that frequently for very many walks.


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## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

Do you have any quiet streets near you? Sidewalks close to grass, trees etc are full of distractions and high value reinforcers for pulling. When teaching my boys we'd go to a quiet street and walk straight down the middle so we were away from the distractions. Rapid fire treats/tug games. We'd make it fun. I taught my boys "go sniff" where they can wander loose lead without pulling and used that as a reward later on as well once they understands loose lead walking. I had to use an easy walk harness when I started bc I wasnt strong enough to hold back their pulling. You really cant allow ANY pulling. If it works once theyll keep trying. Now theyre both on flat buckle collars finally . We can almost even heel to the line at hunting practice and thats a really distracting environment! Good luck, it's hard work

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## Mich (Jan 28, 2014)

When training I've given up using quiet trails and streets and stick to our backyard and a regular collar. To take her anywhere else requires the no-pull harness or halti otherwise its just miserable and I don't want to enforce the pulling on walks. I make EVERYONE play her out before we attempt training. The kids get her running and chasing, we play tug, attempt fetch etc. I'd love nothing more than to go for nice long walks around our many parks and trails but after a few months I'm a little discouraged I guess, not giving up, just frustrated. She is learning small commands indoors like lay down and stay with good progress but once outside its near impossible to keep her attention on u for anything, we have to chase her just to play because she'd rather hunt little critters or chase birds across the sky. I don't know how many countless types of treats we've used, she's quite picky. I'll try the rapid reward thing and can look for a clicker if that's what's necessary! As far as classes they only have all-or-nothing classes, they start at $500 for a multitude of things from house training on up but really I only need the leash training. Wish i could pay for a few classes that focused on that. She can sit, come, is full house trained and is learning stay and lay down well so the rest seems like a waste. 

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## Anon-2130948gsoni (Apr 12, 2014)

Mich, I sent you a PM...


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Where exactly are you (ie state) ????

Dogs should be in obedience classes from puppyhood through adulthood. It's not just for learning training methods. It's to keep the owners on the ball. And it's also for socialization for the dog. 

Where I am, I spend about $90/7 weeks. That's 4 sessions a year. So that comes out to be $400 a year. And my opinion - you should spend at least 2 years with a good qualified dog training club before you take your dog and ease off for the rest of your dog's life. 

Your dogs shouldn't have to be tired out to go for walks or to train. You should be able to put that leash on a regular buckle collar and go. No need to pack your pockets full of dog treats. 

And my opinion - training should be done at home SEPERATE from your daily walk. Daily walks should be long enough for the dog (my guys walk 3 miles a day) and should be the dog's time. My guys walk at the other end of the leash a step or two ahead of me and we all get along together. 

When I train my dogs - my expectations of focus and effort is absolutely different, and would be unfair to ask that of a dog when they should be having the time of their life walking ahead with their noses full of fresh air and enticing scents.  

Your description of training - I think you absolutely need to find a good training club and stick with it for as long as your dog needs. This means weekly classes and having an instructor lurking over your shoulder and helping and encouraging you.


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## olliversmom (Mar 13, 2013)

With much respect to Megora, I have found it was very helpful when Olliver was learning, to have him get his major yaya's out pre walk. When the walk was the first exercise of the day, he was so full of energy he could barely contain himself. Having a good romp in the fields or chasing balls pre walk made it much easier for both of us. All of my trainers reiterated the wisdom in getting that extra exuberance out of the way before learning starts in any training session.

And of course, if you plan on following a positive/rewards based method of training, then of course you do have your pockets stuffed with treats. That's how it works. But not forever. Only until they learn and begin to pair the food with the praise.


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## Mich (Jan 28, 2014)

She's a rescue so training from a puppy age wasn't an option. But she's very smart and quick to learn in other aspects, from what I understand they are a smart and easy to train breed. I'm not looking for a strictly structurally trained perfectly behaved show dog, just a few basics for her own safety and a dog enjoyable to walk so my kids can take her for runs too. Just an average happy family dog. I think I can get her there, just feeling frustrated when it comes to leash training. I live in a small town in northern Ontario Canada. 

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## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

Have you tried an easy walk harness? Most dogs don't pull as much on these since the lead clips in front of the chest and they don't get the same opposition reflex they do from a regular collar/harness. It still requires some training, but a lot less arm yanking IMO

http://www.goldenretrieverforum.com...sion/287266-proper-fit-easy-walk-harness.html


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## Leslie B (Mar 17, 2011)

Like all behaviors it boils down to a habit for the dog. If your girl has had months or years of pulling on a leash then it is a pretty set habit. Not to worry it can be undone but it has to be replaced with a new habit. I once inherited a 3 year old samoyed that had seldom been out of his kennel and never walked in a neighborhood. He was totally wild. It took time, a zillion repetions, and no tolerance for pulling but he became a loose leash walker that I could walk with small children in a stroller or on foot. 

One item about unbreaking a habit, like pulling, is that you cannot sometimes "look the other way" and tolerate the behavior you are trying to extinguish. It will reset the training way back and it will be harder to extinguish when you try again. For that reason, I would not take your girl on any walks where you are going to allow her to pull "just this time".


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

olliversmom said:


> And of course, if you plan on following a positive/rewards based method of training, then of course you do have your pockets stuffed with treats. That's how it works.


Always remember there are a lot more rewards besides food for these dogs. You can be the most positive and UP owner in the world - with praise, play, touch, and primarily communication. 

Treats (for me) are reserved for actual training sessions. They are not casually given all the time. 



> I'm not looking for a strictly structurally trained perfectly behaved show dog, just a few basics for her own safety and a dog enjoyable to walk so my kids can take her for runs too. Just an average happy family dog. I think I can get her there, just feeling frustrated when it comes to leash training. I live in a small town in northern Ontario Canada.


 I understand - and I wasn't suggesting you take classes for competition. The 1-2 years training is for life, building good training habits for both you and your dog. Most people don't think twice about what they spend on food during the week. And they don't think twice about the hours of time they spend sitting in front of the TV watching whatever is on. Getting out to class at least for the next two years every week that you can will at least mean you spending an hour of class time away from home and focusing 100% on your dog. 

You adopted her - all the more reason to put the next 1-2 years into attending dog classes with your dogs. It's the best way to form a bond with your dog and gain a better understanding of her. Besides everything else, a lot of the time you have to undo the damage the last year of her life caused whether that was an uncaring home or the uncertainty of the transition from her old home to yours. 

***The other thing that helps in a big way. These dogs have to learn to walk before you start running with them. Otherwise, yep - they will just want to run the entire time. That's a more natural gait for them. When my guys are off leash, they are always moving 3x as fast as me. They just stretch their legs out and motor. Walking with me, they have to keep in check and essentially switch to low gear to walk at least in my space without pulling. <- Besides the concerns about joints, that's a big reason why that first year that these dogs are the most hyper and crazy, they have to walk on these walks with me. As they mature (after they've learned to walk nicely on leash no matter how excited they are), then I start light jogging with them. 

The types of training you need to be doing outside of what you do when you walk her is focusing heeling sessions, positive play... really keeping it upbeat and motivating for the dog. If she's doing well in the house, then you have to train outside. When she gets good there, you have to pack her in the car and find a store front to train her there. When she gets good there, move inside the store on a quiet day. These training sessions for "heeling position" and focus come in handy when you take your dog in public and need to keep her close and out of trouble. Those are the times when you want her to know what "heel" means or "get close". 

IF you have kids older than 10, it might be a good thing getting them involved with the dog training. Have them take it over. Get into all the dog classes with the dogs.


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## olliversmom (Mar 13, 2013)

Mich said:


> She's a rescue so training from a puppy age wasn't an option. But she's very smart and quick to learn in other aspects, from what I understand they are a smart and easy to train breed. I'm not looking for a strictly structurally trained perfectly behaved show dog, just a few basics for her own safety and a dog enjoyable to walk so my kids can take her for runs too. Just an average happy family dog. I think I can get her there, just feeling frustrated when it comes to leash training. I live in a small town in northern Ontario Canada.
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


 As I noted above, we had Olliver from a puppy and took him to classes from the get go, but our new boy Tyson is a 16 month old rescue we have had for 6 weeks. He had no training whatsoever, but is smart and willing. I do intend to get Ollie back to class for his CGC and Tyson to class for the whole enchilada, but right now have too much going on and so working every day with them myself.

Goldens are incredibly smart pups and trainable for sure, just have to be patient and stick with it. Tyson is a little hyper and reactive and had guarding issues and separation anxiety! Lol. But with daily work on these issues he has taken a 360 degree turn for the better. Calmer, rarely guards, outgoing, and biddable. No age is a deterrent.

Good luck!!


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## billybob (Oct 18, 2013)

tine434 said:


> Teaching loose leash - Golden Retrievers : Golden Retriever Dog Forums
> 
> Go down the first page, the video links are posted. Worked amazing. Slow process
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


just watched all three videos, i will follow these to the letter as billy is a right puller on the lead.
that just might be my own fault as we go in the same direction from home every night, just realized its not till we get to the same corner 5 minutes away that he wonders in which direction we are going on that walk.


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## ARBaumann (Dec 22, 2013)

Try this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBN2_YuTclU


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