# Drop On Recall Question



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

Wow, yeah I don't use the clicker for drop on recall, not fully. I have my own bizarre and probably incorrect method of training it... but I will read this with interest!


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## LibertyME (Jan 6, 2007)

AquaClaraCanines said:


> ... but I will read this with interest!


Crap! I was hoping you would chime in with some words of wisdom!! I'll take some bizarre-wisdom if you choose to share!!


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## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

LOL okay...

Well I do distance control first- stationary. I assume that's what you're referring to above. I DO use a clicker for that. I also do the rapid downs. I do them all the time. The thing is I never had a dog creep. I do, however, teach my dogs to crawl on command... just an idea but it could help her see the difference. Start with distance control closer to her and forget the recall for a while... then build back up like you said.

When I do drop on recalls I start with the dog in front of me... facing the other way, then sideways, then just walking towards me... it's quite a long time before I introduce it into the formal recall. The problem I have is dogs anticipating the drop- that's a pretty common problem- for that I reward as many nice, normal recalls as I can. Also to qualify you don't need your dog to race towards you like a bat out of hell... a nice trot is fine IMO, and makes these things a little easier.


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## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

PS doing some practice downs with the dog's back to you would probably stop the creeping... just a random thought


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## LibertyME (Jan 6, 2007)

Will try the backward downs...she will like those! 

She is a velcro dog and is happiest in life within 6' of me...Having just said that she has never failed a SitStay or DownStay in practice or competition..

As I type it does seem that the distance work is where I failed adequately proofing...When working downs at a distance...Do you restrain? Tether the dog to a fixed point-CT as they successfully down at different distances and relative positions? If so, do you toss the treat from a distance or do you go back to the dog to treat?


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## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

You can tether, but I am a hardass when I teach stay, and to me it's just an extension of STAY.... stay is the one thing I don't use a clicker for. Most of my dogs would sooner die than break a stay. I proof the hell out of stays- my old Whippet was doing stays today on a packed spring break beach full of dogs and kids.

I am not mean when I do stays, but I do use a prong and it's the only command I use a leash to teach. 

I then go from there (with the clicker) for everything else. I toss food for rewards, yes, or go to the dog and feed then back back up again, which further proofs the stay.


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## FlyingQuizini (Oct 24, 2006)

I teach distance work in a "box" -- which is basically a PVC horseshoe that's raised up about 6" off the ground. I teach my dog to go out and run into the box, turn and sit facing me. This also helps with utility go outs. I do signals in the box, working on bulding distance over time. 

Then I use the box as a bit of a restraint for the drop on recall. I leave the dog for a recall, and put the box between the dog and I and drop the dog when he gets to the box. Sometimes I call the dog straight thru the box w/o the drop so he doesn't get too hip to the game. Then I fade the box. First th feet come off so it's flat on the ground; then the sides come off so it's just a piece of PVC that's perpendicular to the dog. All the while during the fading of the box prompt, I sometimes drop the dog, sometimes do a regular recall to front, sometimes do a recall to a tossed toy, etc. Then a fade the one piece of PVC by using smaller diameter PVC, shorter piece, etc. and finally to a plexi stick and then to nothing.

If you reward from a distance (like by tossing food or a toy after the dog drops) make sure the reward always goes over the dogs head so he gets it behind him. You don't want him to think anything fun comes in front as that can encourage creeping on the drop on recall.

Hope that makes sense.

Stephanie


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## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

GREAT idea Stephanie!!! Thanks for replying


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## LibertyME (Jan 6, 2007)

Like the box idea....I can see Lib appreciating it as well - she does love to interact with props.... plus give me a chance to go to HomeDepot!

Tossing past the dog to prevent forward motion....didnt think of that!! 

Thanks Steph - good food for thought....


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## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

PVC rules... made my jumps from it...


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## Rastadog (Oct 24, 2006)

*Why not lighten things up and play drop games*

I taught this exercise on a six foot lead. I would hold something harmless in my signal hand like the cork from a champagne bottle. If she dropped quick I would hang onto the cork. If she was slow she got the cork which was in my signal hand tossed at her head. Once she understood I would play cookie toss games. Toss cookie, string cheese is good for this, as soon as she had the cheese I would call her and then drop her. Sometimes I wouldn't drop her. Teach them to think and pay attention. DO NOT give the drop signal if your dog is not paying attention. Randomize the distance that you give the drop command to get your dog to think. Make it fun build their confidence. After I retired my obedience dog we would play drop and signal games while no longer competing just cause they were fun. She had an excellent reliable drop in the ring because it was fun in training. This will carry over to your utility work when you start your signal work. She was my novice a dog too. If you have the extra dough you might want to order a set of Teri Arnold's obedience books. If you have friendly otch trainers in your area find out where they training and go watch them. Good luck and have fun


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## LibertyME (Jan 6, 2007)

Thanks Rasta, Fun is where its at! 
I will see if I can get my hands on the Teri Arnold Series (You are like the third peson that has reccommended them)


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## FlyingQuizini (Oct 24, 2006)

Yeah, the Teri Arnold Steppin' Up to Success books are great!

It should always be fun - especially in training. Even if you give the drop command, and the dog doesn't drop, you still run into him and keep it fun as you re-give the command at a much closer distance.

I've also taught it just by tossing a toy. In fact, that's how I taught it to my Whippet. I had her favorite toy and would call her to me, with a second person already set up behind her. First, I wouldn't even call for the drop, I'll just suddenly toss the toy (with my eventual signal hand) to the person behind me. Made the dog stop in her tracks watching the toy whizz past her to the other person. Did that three or four times in a row. Then I called her, fake threw the toy, and by fake throwing, I was now giving my drop hand signal. She stopped in her tracks expecting the toy to be thrown past her. I calmly said "down", she went down and then I threw her the toy. Worked really well for her.

-Stephanie


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## Rastadog (Oct 24, 2006)

*Games and obedience training*

I trained with Teri for 3-4 years. She is a very very talented, she would say brilliant, dog trainer. She has an amazing ability to read dogs and handlers. She helped me take a dog that was the poster child for poop face and transform her into a multiple hit dog. Teri uses a very motavational training method breaking down the exercises into pieces and using games to build confidence, motavation , attention but most important your relationship with your partner, not your spouse, your dog. Make it fun so your partner in the ring wants to look at you wondering what fun thing might happen next. She taught me to do the unexpected and be interesting to my dog. My dog flourished under her guidence. She got me to teach my quiet dog to speak on command. It works as an activator and a stress reliever. Over time I got my girl to communicate to me with her voice. The people in my local club were amazed at the before and after. Teri was 3 hours from my house and worth the drive. If you have a chance to take one of her seminars, go. If you can only buy one book get the first in the series. It covers the basics of her method.


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## LibertyME (Jan 6, 2007)

Rastadog said:


> I trained with Teri for 3-4 years. She is a very very talented, she would say brilliant, dog trainer. She has an amazing ability to read dogs and handlers. She helped me take a dog that was the poster child for poop face and transform her into a multiple hit dog.....



Lucky Duck!
"poster child for poop face" Oh I've seen those dogs in the ring....makes your heart break - I am impressed that you were able to turn it around! Must be a great to see your pup not only happier in the ring, but to actually flourish!!


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## Rastadog (Oct 24, 2006)

*I was going to quit before Teri*

That dog was my first. I promised the breeder that I would get a CD on her before I knew what a CD was. I'm not sure I've loved any living thing more. It did break my heart to see her not having fun. What Teri taught me carried over to real life for both of us. It made our relationship better and built her confidence which carried over into all aspects of her life. She is gone two years now and not a day goes by when I don't think about her. I agree about watching poop face dogs in the ring. The thing I hate even more are the dogs that are afraid in the ring, of their handlers. I'm not against compulsion, just abuse.


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