# Drills & Skills



## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

I am working handling drills and yesterday (since I had free time), I stopped short and had to ask myself a few questions - since I didn't know the answers I thought I might run them by you 

I have an obedience and agility background where you work specific skills for short periods of time and then either rest your dog or move on to exercises that are different from what was just worked.

So, yesterday I was working on T with 2 of my dogs. I was thinking about wagon wheel work next, but switched off to agility with all 3 dogs since I was not confident if T and wagon wheels should be worked close together. 

My questions all relate to generally, how do you work on drills - do you intersperse the drills with other activities or do you do similar drills close together? 

Do you kind of bundle the handling skills together, or work say handling, then marking, then obedience back to another handling skill etc.?

Do you work the drills on a rotational basis or do you come close to perfecting a drill and then move that drill to maintenance mode while you begin a new skill/drill?

Thanks for any insights.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

I do drills not for the sake of doing drills but to strengthen a skill that is slipping or to provide an opportunity to correct outside of the "real deal."
Our goal in field training is to have a dog who can do multiple marks and run cold blinds. That's the cut and dried of it. There are a lot of factors that go into these two basic things. So to be proficient at marking and blind running, well, you have to run a lot of marks and cold blinds. A drill cannot replace this. However, a drill allows you to focus on a very small aspect of the whole picture, to iron it out, achieve better understanding and correct, without zapping confidence on marks and blinds. 
Drills also can condense a complicated concept down to it's component parts so the dog can easily digest it. For example, you don't just take a dog who has never run cold blinds with a poison bird and expect to hammer it out in the field. You run chair drills and teach it to the dog. Wagon wheel is easy for a young dog even before heading into transition, but the skills of heel/here, lining and line manners is imperative for very advanced dogs, and you can modify the drill to suit your needs for the training life of the dog. 
So don't just do a drill for the sake of doing a drill. Have a purpose in mind and make the drill fit your training needs.


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## Swampcollie (Sep 6, 2007)

Typically I start the day with basic OB drills in the yard. Then I move on to blinds (or depending upon how advanced the dog is casting, T or TT). Then it's on to running marks. 

OB work can be kind of dull and repetitious but the dog is just starting its' training day so they're up for it. Blinds/blind drills can involve some pressure so we do those next. Marks are done last because they are fun for the dog. They get to pin their ears back, kick in the afterburners and run as fast as they can. This is very rewarding for a dog and helps to bring their attitude back up so they're ready to go again tomorrow. 

Always let the dog finish the day on a high note.


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## EvanG (Apr 26, 2008)

Sunrise said:


> I am working handling drills and yesterday (since I had free time), I stopped short and had to ask myself a few questions - since I didn't know the answers I thought I might run them by you
> 
> My questions all relate to generally, how do you work on drills - do you intersperse the drills with other activities or do you do similar drills close together?


I'm a big proponent of drills for strengthening skills. But they should be balanced with marking every day if you can. Some drills can be combined. Some can be mixed. But all of that depends on whether the dog has solid Basics, plus knowing where the dog is his progression through Transition.


Sunrise said:


> Do you kind of bundle the handling skills together, or work say handling, then marking, then obedience back to another handling skill etc.?
> 
> Do you work the drills on a rotational basis or do you come close to perfecting a drill and then move that drill to maintenance mode while you begin a new skill/drill?
> 
> Thanks for any insights.


Get your developing dog as solid and reliable on the skill you're working on before mixing in any more advanced skills. What sort of skill work are you working on? Where is your dog in development?

EvanG


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## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

Hi Evan,

We are starting to work on handling - well, perhaps more than starting since he has an obedience background. His marks are getting there, he is probably 95% on whistle cues at a distance, he still needs body motion (or perhaps I do) for overs.

Since he is my first dog training in field, I am trying to work a lot up close (like 10-25 yards) since he typically does not have many issues with extending distances when he is solid on what is being asked. Then I extend the distances. He does take cues. I have not done much in the way of de-cheating etc. I am unsure if this is what you are referring to by where he is in development, but hopefully it gives an idea.


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## EvanG (Apr 26, 2008)

My suggested drill regimen for establishing and advancing handling is:

3-handed casting, including 2-hands Back
Condition to sit to whistle
Mini-T
Single T
Double T
Swim-by
Walking Baseball
Wagon Wheel Casting drill (aka 8-handed casting)
Step by step in a logical sequence.

EvanG


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## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks  It looks like we are on track then. 




EvanG said:


> My suggested drill regimen for establishing and advancing handling is:
> 3-handed casting, including 2-hands Back
> Condition to sit to whistle
> Mini-T
> ...


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