# Slow growth plan



## Oaklys Dad (Dec 28, 2005)

The breeder I purchased Oakly suggested feeding adult food from day one, which I did. I did not follow a regimented plan though. He turned out just fine and has never had any joint issues in his 5.5 years.


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## AmbikaGR (Dec 31, 2007)

It is MUCH healthier for a pup to grow out slow. I have dome that with my last 5 Goldens and recommend to everyone to do the same. 

Are there any specific aspects you have questions about? Feel free to post them here.

And good luck with your pup!! :wavey:


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## iansgran (May 29, 2010)

Came home from the breeder with the article by Ronda Hovath (well not exactly sure that is spelled right) about the slow growth plan. Basically it says feed less than the bags say, switch to adult after 4 months. I did feed less and Jaro certainly did grow slower than the other April puppies, but did catch up. I didn't switch to adult at 4 months, just kept feeding him less than the bad said.


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## luvgolds (May 20, 2009)

We did slow growth for both Harley and Buddy, and they both stayed pretty much in line with the recommendations from Rhonda Hovan. We did not switch to adult food, though, until about 10mths, and that's because we decided the adult food was going to be grain free which we thought would be too high in protein for the growing puppy. 

Both our dogs stayed on the trimmer side but based on all my reading that seems a lot better for their health overall, not just on their joints/hips. 

If you have specific questions, just post them! I know when I started slow growth with Harley I had a lot and many people were very helpful posting responses!


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## CarolinaCasey (Jun 1, 2007)

Yes and our boy is doing incredibly well. I would do it again with any future puppy.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

I guess the main reason I brought this up was that I did not know if this was just a fad. My breeder had mentioned about feeding 3/4 cup per day (Pro Plan Puppy LB) when I first get the puppy and to switch to adult food at 6 months. We have not brought the puppy home yet so I haven't discussed this fully with the breeder, but it sounds like the same advice found in the article about slow growth.

The other question I have is when it says to eventually walk 3 miles four or five times a week, is that supposed to be one big walk or should/can it be broken up into smaller walks.

We are excited about bringing the little girl home this weekend and I just want to do the best I can for her. I'm really surprised there is not more information about this other than the one article and hints to it in other locations.

Oh, one more thing... Do any of you have pictures of your puppies as they progressed on the slow growth plan? I was just hoping to get a visual of how they should look at the different ages on this plan. Thanks.


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## CarolinaCasey (Jun 1, 2007)

I'm sure that I can pick out some pics of mine on the plan. He was always thin, but not unhealthy. I could feel ribs but not see them, etc.


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## rhondas (Sep 10, 2010)

I followed the slow growth plan and actually changed to adult food at 4 months old. I have a very fit 3.5 year old male golden who has never had a weight problem (unless you count the need to make sure he doesn't lose weight when he's too active). He has had NO health or orthopeadic issues.


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## julliams (Oct 27, 2010)

I posted this on another thread but I think it's relevent here. Just cutting and pasting...

Zali is part of a Slow Growth programme. I was given a chart by our breeder which has been compiled by a vet who is studying this at the moment. She has asked us to keep all our weights for her for one whole year.

It's all in kg but I will write it out in lbs and kg as it might be helpful for someone out there. Our girl is from Swedish lines so I think these pups run larger in general than the field lines (this is what I understand - I could be wrong) and we are in Australia so I don't know if it is relevent to all here at GRF.

Anyway here goes - I'll do males first, then females *I tried to put it in with spaces, but it won't allow me so I've used bold to help sort out the numbers - sorry it's so hard to read!!!!*:

Age months *Male Range kg & lbs* Male Average *% of Adult weight*

1 month * 2 - 3.5kg (4.4 - 7.7lbs)* 3kg (6.6lbs) *10*
2months *5 - 8kg (11 - 17.6lbs)* 6.5kg (14.5lbs) *22*
3 months *9 - 13kg (19.8 - 28.6lbs)* 12kg (26.5lbs) *40*
4 months *14 - 18kg (30.8 - 39.7lbs)* 16kg (35.2lbs) *50*
5 months*18 - 21kg (39.7 - 46.3lbs)* 20kg (44.1lbs) *60*
6 months*20 - 24kg (44.1 - 52.9lbs) * 23kg (50.7lbs) *70*
7 months*24 - 26kg (52.9 - 57.3lbs)* 25kg (55.1lbs) *80*
8 months*25 - 28kg (55.1 - 61.7lbs)* 27kg (59.5lbs) *85*
9 months*27 - 30kg (59.5 - 66.1lbs) * 29kg (63.9lbs) *90*
10 months*28 - 31kg (61.7 - 68.3lbs)* 30kg (66.1lbs) *92*
11 months*29 - 32kg (63.9 - 70.5lbs)* 31kg (68.3lbs) *95*
12 months*30 - 33kg (66.1 - 72.7lbs)* 32kg (70.5lbs) *95*
18 months*32 - 36kg (70.5 - 79.3lbs) * 34kg (74.9lbs) *98*
24 months *32 - 38kg (70.5 - 83.7lbs)* 35kg (77.1lbs) *98*
36 months *32 - 38kg (70.5 - 83.7lbs)* 36kg (79.3lbs *100*



Age Months * Female Range kg & lbs* Female Average *% Adult Weight*

1 month *1.8 - 2.8kg (3.9 - 6.1lbs)* 2.5kg (5.5lbs) *10*
2 months *4 -7kg (8.8 - 15.4lbs*) 6kg (13.2lbs) * 22*
3 months *7 - 10kg (15.4 - 22lbs)* 9kg (19.8lbs) *40*
4 months *12 - 15kg (26.4 - 33lbs)* 13kg (28.6lbs) *50*
5 months *15 - 18kg (33 - 39.6lbs)* 16kg (35.2lbs) *60*
6 months *18 - 20kg (39.6 - 44lbs)* 19kg (41.8lbs) *70*
7 months *20 - 22kg (44 - 48.5lbs)* 21kg (46.3lbs) * 80*
8 months *22 - 24kg (48.5lbs - 52.9lbs)* 23kg (50.7lbs) *85*
9 months *23 - 26kg (50.7 - 57.3lbs)* 25kg (55.1lbs) *85*
10 months *24 - 27kg (52.9 - 59.5lbs)* 26kg (57.3lbs) * 92*
11 months *25 - 28kg (55.1 - 61.7lbs)* 27kg (59.5lbs) *95*
12 months *26 - 29kg (57.3 - 63.9lbs)* 28kg (61.7lbs) *95*
18 months *27 - 29kg (59.5 - 63.9lbs)* 28kg (61.7lbs) * 98*
24 months *28 - 30kg (61.7 - 66.1lbs)* 29kg 63.9lbs) *98*
36 months *28 - 32kg (61.7 - 70.5lbs)* 30kg (66.1lbs) *100*


Please excuse me if I have made some mistakes with the conversions here and there - I googled them all and cut and pasted here and there. Remember, this is a guide and may not apply to all Golden Retrievers. It was given to me by my breeder for lines here in Australia. It is an extract from "Hip and Elbow Displasia in the Golden Retreiver in Australia" by Karen Hedberg BVSc, 2009. Karen states that pups at 4 months are half their expected adult weight. If the pup grows fast in the first 6 months, this won't apply of course.

Just for interest sake, Zali has been about a kg above average until this month where is is only a half kg above average. I got told by the vet today that she looked perfect and on the lean side.

Hope it's helpful to someone


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## harrym (Nov 13, 2010)

Mavrk: You don't mean 3/4 cup per day, do you? You must mean 3/4 cup per feeding at least three times per day. The Wellness puppy food I use recommends 3-4 cups per day at 3 months and 25 pounds. I have kept it at 3 cups for now. Amber would eat more than that if I let her.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

Thank you for that chart. It seems to fill in some gaps for me. The article I referenced above by Hovan has slightly different numbers, but this could just be the conversion issue. It does not distinguish between male and female. I guess the idea is that the first 20 weeks are going to be the same for the two sexes. These numbers seem to be closer to the female numbers referenced above:

*Target Weights:*
*Age Weight*
Birth Approx. 1 lb.
1 wk. 2 lbs.
2 wks. 3 lbs.
3 wks. 4 lbs.
4 wks. 5 lbs.
5 wks. 6 lbs.
6 wks. 7 lbs.
7 wks. 8 lbs.
8 wks. 10 lbs.
10 wks. 12 lbs.
12 wks. 15-16 lbs.
16 wks. 22-23 lbs.
20 wks. 28-30 lbs.


At 20 weeks (four months) it says to switch to adult food and give a little more to start putting on more weight.


Here is where it would be nice if they gave a little more information on about how much weight per week they should be gaining. I know it says to judge by look and feel. I guess it depends on the final weight of the dog, but at what age do they reach that weight. I assume that they should be close to their full weight at 1 year and at the target weight around 18 months. My breeder says my girl should get to about 60 lbs. So do I go with about 1 lb a week? Or is it more like 2 lbs a week to start and then taper off later? Thanks to Juliams, I now have an idea of what happens after the 20 weeks. The % adult weight column helps with this as well.


Is this what others have done as well after the 20 weeks?


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

harrym said:


> Mavrk: You don't mean 3/4 cup per day, do you? You must mean 3/4 cup per feeding at least three times per day. The Wellness puppy food I use recommends 3-4 cups per day at 3 months and 25 pounds. I have kept it at 3 cups for now. Amber would eat more than that if I let her.


No, it is 3/4 cup PER DAY, not per meal. On the slow growth plan, a 3 month old puppy would be about 15 lbs. The bags usually overstate the amount of food anyway, but they also do not follow the slow growth plan on the bags. Of course it also depends on the food chosen. The idea is to be close to 50% full weight at 4 months of age.

This is not to say a 3 month old puppy that is 25 lbs is overweight or will look overweight (or even become overweight as an adult). On the contrary, the article states that extra food will first be used for growth so that the puppy will not be fat. The puppy will just grow faster than one on the slow growth plan. In the end they all end up the same weight. But slowing the growth for the first 20 weeks is supposed to lessen the chance of joint and bone problems (and possibly cancer, but there is less information about this) compared to the more rapid growth most people seem to follow.

You can read one of the articles here: Retriever Slow Growth


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## AmbikaGR (Dec 31, 2007)

These weights posted on these charts are approximations and nothing more. Even dogs on the "slow growth plan" grow at different rates. Genetics are still just as important factor. I think it is better to look with our hands as much as it is your eyes. Below is a chart that I think is very useful to help with this. With Goldens their coat, even as pups, can distort the view. It is better to see with our hands or to wet the pup down to get a better idea.





*







*chart and information courtesy of Ralston Purina*
Evaluating your dog's weight*

How skinny is "pretty skinny"? How heavy is "not as thin as he should be"? The Purina body condition system provides a uniform way to describe a pet's weight, from "emaciated" to "grossly obese"


EMACIATED
Ribs, lumbar vertebrae, pelvic bones and all bony prominences evident form a distance. No discernable body fat. Obvious loss of muscle mass.
VERY THIN 
Ribs, lumbar vertebrae and pelvic bones easily visible. No palpable fat. Some evidence of other bony prominence. Minimal loss of muscle mass
THIN 
Ribs easily palpated and may be visible with no palpable fat. Tops of lumbar vertebrae visible. Pelvic bones becoming prominent. Obvious waist and abdominal tuck
UNDERWEIGHT 
Ribs easily palpable, with minimal fat covering. Waist easily noted, viewed form above. Abdominal tuck evident.
IDEAL 
Ribs palpable without excess fat covering. Waist observed behind ribs when viewed from above. Abdomen tucked when viewed from the side.
OVERWEIGHT 
Ribs palpable with slight excess fat covering. Waist is discernable viewed from above but is not prominent. Abdominal tuck apparent.
HEAVY 
Ribs palpable with difficulty, heavy fat cover. Noticeable fat deposits over lumbar area and base of tail. Waist absent or barely visible. Abdominal tuck may be absent.
OBESE 
Ribs not palpable under heavy fat cover, or palpable only with significant pressure. Heavy fat deposits over lumbar area and base of tail. Waist absent. No abdominal tuck. Obvious abdominal distension may be present.
GROSSLY OBESE


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## harrym (Nov 13, 2010)

Thanks for clearing that up. But that sounds pretty drastic to me. Doesn't it leave the puppy open to disease and growth problems? I think Amber would be a 5 on the chart above.


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## goldensrbest (Dec 20, 2007)

I have posted about spirit, having , panosteitis, i think he has it from me giving him, fromm grain free, iwould not do that again, i had always done a puppy food, with my other dogs, switched to adult around 6 months, this will be what i will return to again, in the future.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

harrym said:


> Thanks for clearing that up. But that sounds pretty drastic to me. Doesn't it leave the puppy open to disease and growth problems? I think Amber would be a 5 on the chart above.


I haven't heard any downsides to the slow growth plan. That is one thing I have been looking for. Everyone says their puppies have a lot of energy and end up the same size as the norm. That seems to be why people refer to it as slow growth vs rapid growth rather than one being a "normal" growth plan. I would love to hear if anyone has had problems with the slow growth plan.

As for the chart, puppies on the slow growth plan still exhibit the "ideal" body frame, just in a smaller proportion. The reasoning is that during this time frame of the puppy's life extra food goes to growth, not to fat. As part of the slow growth plan, if you can see the ribs as in #4 then you feed more. If you see the fat, then you have really overfed because the puppy has used what it can for a more rapid growth and is now storing the rest as fat.


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## CarolinaCasey (Jun 1, 2007)

harrym said:


> Mavrk: You don't mean 3/4 cup per day, do you? You must mean 3/4 cup per feeding at least three times per day. The Wellness puppy food I use recommends 3-4 cups per day at 3 months and 25 pounds. I have kept it at 3 cups for now. Amber would eat more than that if I let her.


It's about not over feeding. 3 cups a day for an 8 week or a 12 week old is overfeeding. It is also about watching weight and making sure that the dog or puppy is in ideal body conditioning. Adjustments in feeding have to be made when he or she is getting thin or fat. I think it is a good thing, especially considering how many overweight adult animals there are in the world. A rolly polly puppy isn't always the best thing for that puppy. IMO, of course.


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## harrym (Nov 13, 2010)

Three months is twelve weeks, not eight. Amber gained nearly five pounds in those extra weeks. I can't imagine feeding her 1/4 of what she is eating now. At eight weeks, she was eating two cups. Where do training treats figure in?


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

harrym said:


> Three months is twelve weeks, not eight. Amber gained nearly five pounds in those extra weeks. I can't imagine feeding her 1/4 of what she is eating now. At eight weeks, she was eating two cups. Where do training treats figure in?


The idea is to watch the weight, so just like any feeding, training treats need to be regulated with the food. How did you factor in training treats with 2 cups at 8 weeks, or 3 cups at 12 weeks? For the most part, a portion of the puppy's food can be used as treats. Obviously a few other treats for extra good behavior will be used. It is not about exact amounts of food either since different foods will use different amounts. One trick is to grind up a couple pieces of dried liver and coat the normal kibble with that. This makes for great treats for training without adding too many calories. Also, exercise is important.


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## Sally's Mom (Sep 20, 2010)

I always switch mine over to adult food at 4 months... and feed less than the bag says. The dog food representatives say those are "guidelines."


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## julliams (Oct 27, 2010)

I wouldn't worry too much about being sure that everything is perfect all the time. Guidelines are guidelines. 

At 5 months old Zali gets about 2 1/2 to 3 cups of Purina Pro Plan Large Puppy Forumla per day. The bag says to give between 2 1/3 and 3 2/3 for a pup from 4 - 5months old per day. In her dinner I will add something from our dinner that is ok for her to have like pumpkin, or rice or minced meat, carrots or beans or a tablespoon of yoghurt (usually just one thing). I change it up each day so it's always interesting. Sometimes I don't have anything because we are eating out or getting take away, so she just has her kibble. Half of that is for breakfast, the other half at dinner. Her breakfast is given to her in a kong wobbler but she doesn't always finish it.

In a day I will also give her a snack of some sort - it could be a pigs ear (yes they are fatty but she doesn't get them very often), a frozen kong with a mix of banana, yogurt and peanut butter, or Dog biscuits (only the recommended serving size - ours says 4 biscuits - they are small), or a raw egg (shell and all).

So two meals and a snack is very common around here. We also walk her at least 6 days a week. The walks at the moment can be anything from 20 minutes to 40 minutes depending on the day and how much time we have.

We were done with the first bag of Purina Pro Plan Large Puppy Formula when Zali was about 16 weeks. I contacted our breeder and she said to get another bag of it and change her over to the adult formula after that one. I think she will be about 6 months before that bag is done. That's fine with me.

I was very hung up on getting it right at first, that's natural, but now I find it really easy and it's not something I worry about. I think Zali would eat continuously if I let her so I'm really glad that I decided to go with the slow growth programme. It taught me to limit her food intake so that now it's just a habit and she seems to know when it's time for food pretty well. 

We make sure we don't feed her from the table and not from our plates. Often she just sits at our feet when we are eating dinner.

I can only see benefits. She has tonnes of energy, her stools are always firm and anyone who sees her (who knows their stuff) tells me she looks perfect. By keeping a table of her weight gain each month, I know that I'm on track. If I saw a decline or rise in the increase, I would just modify her food intake accordingly.

I do think genetics plays a role in this too but for me there is never an excuse for an overweight child, and so I feel the same about my dog.


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## bioteach (Nov 13, 2010)

Our breeder really touted the slow growth plan. Nugget is almost 6 months now, and he is very healthy on adult food. I see no reason whatsoever to rush them.


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## Sally's Mom (Sep 20, 2010)

Mavrk,
I, too, feed Wellness. I do not feed large breed as when I started on Wellness 10 or so years ago, there was no large breed. And when I discovered that large breed was less kcal/cup than the regular, I realized that I would have to feed more and that wouldn't make sense. My goldens as pups have eaten 2-3 cups/food/day. They have not been fat. They start to eat adult food at 4 months. Since that plan was implemented, out of the 4 with rads submitted to OFA, I have 4 clear elbows that go with 3 Good Hips and 1 Fair hips. I also supplement with dasuquin w/msm and fish oil.


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## Dexell1827 (Feb 23, 2011)

Ella was only fed puppy food until 10 weeks, and that was only to transition her over to adult food. Dexter was on LBP for six months, and then transitioned over to adult. They've never been fed more than 2.5 cups/day (each), and right now actually only get 2 cups per day (each), even though the bag recommends 2.75c - 3.5c per day. They are both at an ideal weight that has not varied in over 2 years. Dexter will be turning 7 tomorrow, and hasn't had the slightest problem with hips/elbows/other joints. (Ella is just four and is also problem free.)

ETA...I'm hoping to bring home a new Golden puppy in June, and will definitely be doing the slow growth plan with him.


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## LauraJ (Mar 30, 2010)

I think I have the only golden who doesn't like to eat.. I sit with her and coax her to eat 1/2 a cup twice a day..


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

harrym said:


> Mavrk: You don't mean 3/4 cup per day, do you? You must mean 3/4 cup per feeding at least three times per day. The Wellness puppy food I use recommends 3-4 cups per day at 3 months and 25 pounds. I have kept it at 3 cups for now. Amber would eat more than that if I let her.


FWIW, my breeder does not follow the Slow Growth Plan. I had misheard her and she is feeding 3/4 cup per feeding 3 times a day like you said. She also does not normally feed the Large Breed formulas. My girl should end up between 60-62 lbs at full growth.

Edit: When I showed her the article, she had seen it before and recommended against it. My breeder's dogs all have great orthopedics. Of course they have great lines too which helps. So I will not be following this plan.


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## Deb_Bayne (Mar 18, 2011)

When I brought Bayne home he was a little chubby (the vet said), we started feeding him 1/3 c 3 times a day, last week I upped that to 1/2c 3 times a day and he's still gulping his food down, but he has slimmed down and has an hour glass figure and the belly isn't plump now. At the vet at 9 weeks, he weighed in at 21.5 lbs, I don't know what he weighs now though we don't have scale here. He goes for his second visit in about 2 weeks.


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## oakleysmommy (Feb 20, 2011)

Deb_Bayne said:


> When I brought Bayne home he was a little chubby (the vet said), we started feeding him 1/3 c 3 times a day, last week I upped that to 1/2c 3 times a day and he's still gulping his food down, but he has slimmed down and has an hour glass figure and the belly isn't plump now. At the vet at 9 weeks, he weighed in at 21.5 lbs, I don't know what he weighs now though we don't have scale here. He goes for his second visit in about 2 weeks.


 21.5 lbs at 9 weeks? did you mean 12.5lbs? maybe i am way off but my guy is 8 weeks old and 10lbs/


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## Deb_Bayne (Mar 18, 2011)

oakleysmommy said:


> 21.5 lbs at 9 weeks? did you mean 12.5lbs? maybe i am way off but my guy is 8 weeks old and 10lbs/


It's not a typo, I have a Maine **** (cat) who weighs 25 lbs and Bayne is not quite as heavy. He is a big boy all his brothers are the same size, 6 brothers 2 sisters, but one female didn't make it.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

Wow, at 9 weeks our little girl was 12.7 lbs. Of course she was empty and 2 days later she was 13.5 lbs because she was holding on to her breakfast for several hours.


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## Deb_Bayne (Mar 18, 2011)

Oh no, are we going to have a monster of a dog? lol His Dad isn't tall but very stocky .... I'm getting pics from the breeder of Bayne's family, I met the mom, dad, aunts, cousins etc..... all beautiful looking and not overly big but solid looking dogs.


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## Mighty Casey and Samson's Mom (Jul 16, 2008)

I didn't know about "growing slow" with Casey, so he was on puppy food until 6 months. With Samson, we took him off it at 3 months (some people don't do puppy food at all). He is a nice, healthy guy but much smaller than Casey was at 10 months. He is lean and very active. I think with the bigger dogs, growing slow is best. It is also supposed to reduce cancer risks in goldens and increase longevity.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

Deb_Bayne said:


> Oh no, are we going to have a monster of a dog? lol His Dad isn't tall but very stocky .... I'm getting pics from the breeder of Bayne's family, I met the mom, dad, aunts, cousins etc..... all beautiful looking and not overly big but solid looking dogs.


For a purebred Golden, he does sound a little overweight like your vet said. But that doesn't mean he will be big as an adult. Our puppy is a female, so I would expect a slight difference in weight with a male, but not a large amount until later. It sounds like you took appropriate action and did not feed too much to help him slim down.

FWIW, we are feeding 3/4 cup three times a day of Pro Plan Puppy (not Large Breed) Chicken and Rice. We'll see what the 10 week weight looks like in a few days. We use a portion of this daily allotment for treats. The occasional dried liver treat is used as well (more so at the beginning while introducing the "go potty" command). Let us know what he weighs at his next visit. It is always nice to see what weights the puppies are at different stages.


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## Deb_Bayne (Mar 18, 2011)

Thanks Mavrk, we also aren't going overboard on the treats either, I did buy some holistic treats that are low in calories and small, the perfect size for training. He is on the leash really well and sits on command and also he will sit and wait (almost) for his meals. And.... surprise surprise he knows his name.


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## neo2000 (Jan 22, 2011)

When Gibbs was weighed at the vet this morning, he was 14.5 lbs. He's 8-1/2 weeks old. He is by far the largest (not just the chubbiest) puppy of his litter. The vet was a little concerned with his weight and said we had to watch him, so we will. The breeder had been feeding him 1 cup 3 times a day. He hasn't eaten that much since he's been with us because he hasn't been all that interested in eating. I think it's the stress of the move that had slackened his appetite. Tonight he seems to have found it again, but I'm going to feed him 3/4 cup each time for a while and see how he does with that. He goes back to the vet in two weeks, so we'll see how he's doing then.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

Deb_Bayne said:


> Thanks Mavrk, we also aren't going overboard on the treats either, I did buy some holistic treats that are low in calories and small, the perfect size for training. He is on the leash really well and sits on command and also he will sit and wait (almost) for his meals. And.... surprise surprise he knows his name.


For treats, someone also recommended Zuke's Mini Naturals Dog Treats. They are soft treats that are only 2 calories each and look to be the right size for training. I plan to pick some of these up to use for the better responses. Of course our little girl is perfectly happy with her normal kibble as treats. I figure we will use 3 tier system of kibble/zuke's/freeze dried liver.



neo2000 said:


> When Gibbs was weighed at the vet this morning, he was 14.5 lbs. He's 8-1/2 weeks old. He is by far the largest (not just the chubbiest) puppy of his litter. The vet was a little concerned with his weight and said we had to watch him, so we will. The breeder had been feeding him 1 cup 3 times a day. He hasn't eaten that much since he's been with us because he hasn't been all that interested in eating. I think it's the stress of the move that had slackened his appetite. Tonight he seems to have found it again, but I'm going to feed him 3/4 cup each time for a while and see how he does with that. He goes back to the vet in two weeks, so we'll see how he's doing then.


I understand that it is normal for some puppies to not eat for a few days when they first go to a new home. They will not starve and will start eating soon enough. Sometimes if you add some warm water to the kibble it will bring out the smell more and entice them to eat. This also slows down the eating a little bit since Goldens tend to gulp down food. In addition it helps ensure they are getting enough water. We just use cold water because Sunshine loves to eat. Our 4 year old does not like his food wet but he eats slow (for now). We plan to switch to adult food at 6 months and will continue to put some water in the food even as an adult (as recommended by our breeder).


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## Deb_Bayne (Mar 18, 2011)

Any suggestions/advice on how much water to give and when? Right now I feed Bayne 3 times a day, put water in his food and then finish off with water then he goes for his walk every 2 hours and a walk before he eats and after he eats. We tried giving him water off time but he piddled on the floor twice, so we stopped doing that.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

Deb_Bayne said:


> Any suggestions/advice on how much water to give and when? Right now I feed Bayne 3 times a day, put water in his food and then finish off with water then he goes for his walk every 2 hours and a walk before he eats and after he eats. We tried giving him water off time but he piddled on the floor twice, so we stopped doing that.


They should always have fresh water available. Pulling the water up 2-3 hours before evening bedtime is okay.

Edit: I just wanted to add that if they are playing at night after you pulled up the water, then it is okay to give them a little drink, but no the gulping down of the water bowl that usually happens.


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## oakleysmommy (Feb 20, 2011)

ok i am doing the slow growth plan right now he is getting 1/3 cups 3 times a day but he acts like he is starving and he drinks soooo much water. is he doing this because he is trying to fill the void of food? this morning i gave him 1/2 cup and he seems more satisfied. but the water he drinks during the day is alot. every few mins he goes over and drinks. not alot but its constant. any thoughts or advice? thanks!!


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## neo2000 (Jan 22, 2011)

Oakleysmommy, maybe he's just drinking the water because it's there? I think it's OK to not have water down all the time, but allow access to it every hour or so (or after exercise, along with the meal).


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## oakleysmommy (Feb 20, 2011)

neo2000 said:


> Oakleysmommy, maybe he's just drinking the water because it's there? I think it's OK to not have water down all the time, but allow access to it every hour or so (or after exercise, along with the meal).


 yes it looks like its almost a habit that he goes over to his water so much. there he goes now as im typing!! think i will take it up for a few hours a day. thank you


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## TiaBella (Oct 6, 2010)

Hi,
We got Bella in October 2010 and the breeder suggested following the slow growth plan by getting off puppy food and feeding her adult food at 4 months. Her vet told us that according to her weight every month, she is growing slowly and nicely. The Breeder has been practicing this method for 20 years. So I guess this works....


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## tippykayak (Oct 27, 2008)

We don't follow a weight chart or anybody in particular's slow growth plan, but we do keep puppies lean and well exercised.

Feeding an LBP food accomplishes something similar to switching to an adult food early. LBP foods are typically (I say typically because there's no legal designation for what LBP means) lower in calories and have a lower amount of calcium and phosphorus. The difference between an LBP and a regular puppy food is based on studies of growth problems in giant breeds, where growth is dramatically faster than in GRs, so the effects of nutrition are exaggerated.

So we feed LBP (Eukanuba). Even though GR's aren't a giant breed (and they're only arguably even a "large" breed), they do have a fast growth period, so an LBP food seems like the best, most science-based way to prevent growth problems. 

A lean pup can grow into a lean adult, and a lean adult stands the best possible chance of a long life free from orthopedic (and other) health problems. Maintaining a healthy weight is the single best thing you can do for your dog's health. We argue back and forth over ingredients, feeding plans, grains, by-products, etc., but you can feed your dog the most expensive, best food in the world, and if you let him get overweight at all, it's worse for his health than feeding him the cheapest dog food but maintaining a healthy weight.

So I'm a big fan of keeping a pup lean and letting him grow slowly. I put my hands on a puppy every day and check ribs, hips, waist, and back for fat. If the pup gets pudgy at all, I reduce the amount I'm feeding him. If he feels a little too lean, I might increase a little. Generally speaking, the average person tends to underestimate how fat their dog is, so what looks "normal" to us may in fact be moderately overweight. It's important to remember that and to use your hand when you're assessing your dog's weight.

Ribs: 
Ideal: easily felt with light pressure. 
Overweight: felt with moderate or heavy pressure. 
Very overweight: Ribs are hard to feel or even find.
Underweight: No fat felt (feels like the dog is "skin and bones"). Ribs jut out.

Waist:
Ideal: A noticeable waist is visible from the top of the dog (may require hands on to feel it of the dog has a fluffy or heavy coat).
Overweight: Little or no waist, even with hands on.
Very overweight: No waist or even a bulge where the waist should be.
Underweight: Waist appears between jutting ribs and jutting hips.

Hips: 
Ideal: moderate fat pad on the top of the hips. Hips are easily found and felt with no pressure and you can feel them sticking out significantly from the fat pad.
Overweight: significant fat pad on the top of the hips. Hips do not stick out much at all.
Very overweight: Only the top of the hip bone can be felt (or hips can't easily be found at all).
Underweight: Hips visibly jut out, little or no fat pad on top.

If you look at the chart Hank posted, it's the visual version of what I'm describing. I like doing hands-on assessment of weight because it lets you develop a more accurate picture of your dog than just looking, especially in a breed with as much coat as a GR has. That chart comes from the Purina longevity study, which showed that even moderately overweight dogs lived almost two years less than ideal-weight dogs. Moderately overweight dogs also experience the onset of common geriatric diseases (like arthritis) almost two years earlier than ideal-weight dogs.

You can have, on average, two extra years of health with your dog if you manage his weight properly throughout his life!


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## oakleysmommy (Feb 20, 2011)

yes i feed the Fromm's LBP Gold and after this large bag breeder says to switch to Large Breed Adult formula.


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## Mavrk (Mar 11, 2011)

I personally find no problem with the puppy going to get water all the time.

I have a question about the slow growth plan. Why can I only find one article about this? Like I said, I am not following the plan based on my breeder's recommendation, but I am curious why there isn't more information about it.


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## opti2k4 (Jun 20, 2011)

I am using now K9 growth formula food and i want to do slow growth. My puppy has 4 months and 2 weeks. Now i would switch him to Adult TOTW or Orijen. I did read some articles that is bad for a puppy to be on non grain diet until he is 1 year old.

What to do now? All "good" food brands use no grain diet and i want to avoid feeding the puppy with crap 1 star food like K9 is.


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## oakleysmommy (Feb 20, 2011)

THere are plenty of great foods that are not grain free..i wouldnt feed grain free until he is a year old. calcium levels are not appropriate. Theres Fromm's, Wellness, California Natural, Eagle Pack, ProPlan and so many others. i wouldnt pay much attention to the "star" ratings as others will tell you.


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## P00rColl3geBoi (May 17, 2011)

opti2k4 said:


> I am using now K9 growth formula food and i want to do slow growth. My puppy has 4 months and 2 weeks. Now i would switch him to Adult TOTW or Orijen. I did read some articles that is bad for a puppy to be on non grain diet until he is 1 year old.
> 
> What to do now? All "good" food brands use no grain diet and i want to avoid feeding the puppy with crap 1 star food like K9 is.


My puppy is also 4 months and 2 weeks, and I have her on 3 1/4 cups a day of Wellness LBP. She is very energetic and healthy right now, and is about a "4" on that visual chart a few pages back. I believe Wellness has grains in it. Here is the ingredients list:

Deboned Chicken, Whitefish, Chicken Meal, Oatmeal, Ground Peas, Ground Barley, Ground Brown Rice, Salmon Meal (a source of DHA - Docosahexaenoic Acid), Tomato Pomace, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Tomatoes, Natural Chicken Flavor, Ground Flaxseed, Salmon Oil (a source of DHA - Docosahexaenoic Acid), Carrots, Spinach, Sweet Potatoes, Apples, Blueberries, Salt, Minerals [Zinc Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Proteinate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Manganese Sulfate, Sodium Selenite], Vitamins [Beta-Carotene, Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Vitamin A Supplement, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Biotin, Vitamin B-12 Supplement], Choline Chloride, Taurine, Mixed Tocopherols (a natural preservative), Chicory Root Extract, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Dried Lactobacillus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation products.


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## CarolinaCasey (Jun 1, 2007)

opti2k4 said:


> I am using now K9 growth formula food and i want to do slow growth. My puppy has 4 months and 2 weeks. Now i would switch him to Adult TOTW or Orijen. I did read some articles that is bad for a puppy to be on non grain diet until he is 1 year old.
> 
> What to do now? All "good" food brands use no grain diet and i want to avoid feeding the puppy with crap 1 star food like K9 is.


You've missed the age window for the slow growth plan. It is designed for puppies from birth to 4 months of age. By all means, make sure that you keep your young puppy lean and never overweight, but trying to cut back food etc after the puppy has already reached 4 months is not going to be beneficial to anyone.

My puppy got TOTW grain free from his breeder when he was weaned and is still fed the same food today. I have not had a problem.

Per Rhonda Hovan, Slow Growth Plan:


> The goal of this Plan is to produce a slow rate of growth for Golden Retrievers
> puppies *between the ages of birth and four months*. The purpose of the slowed growth rate​is to permit the healthiest possible development of bones and joints.


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## Taracherrie (Apr 9, 2011)

I fed mine 3x a day when 3.5 months and fed her Canidae all stages kibble. She is now 5 months eating 2 cup a day 2 meals and weigh 17.5 KG. Vet is really happy on the result.


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