# Walking vs Pulling



## Charlie06 (Feb 10, 2007)

We use the halti and it works great. But I too am worried that we will always have to use it. Every once in a while we try walking him without it and it doesn't go well. He jumps and pulls and lunges. I don't trust myself to use a prong even though many swear by it. The only bad part with the halti is when we're finished walking I have to take it off real quick cause be tries to get it off himself. I have no problem getting it on him tho, he actually comes over to me so I can put it on.


----------



## Emma&Tilly (May 15, 2005)

It sounds like you are doing a great job...just keep doing what you are doing! With Tilly we had a similar method of stopping still everytime she pulled and she did eventually get it...she walks beautifully now (although she is 3 so she blooming well should!) The clicker is great for heel work which I use with my younger dog...BUT the gentle leader (the one on the muzzle) really does help and works better than the harness (which we have also used...Harry also learnt to pull on it...I dont think they really CAN pull on the headcollar version) anyway....the headcollar is a GREAT tool for using when you really don't have the time to train using the stopping method or the clicker. Just say you are in a rush before work and you take them for a quick walk...you maybe wouldn't have the time to use it as a 'training' walk...so the headcollar would be great in this instance is it is SO unhelpful to training if one day you are working hard on heel training then the next day you end up letting them pull because you don't have time to keep stopping. So combining the methods really can work...or you can even still train her whilst she is wearing the gentle leader...he will still learn the concept. Just keep going with her!!


----------



## Lego&Jacub (Jul 18, 2006)

Thanks!! I was wondering if it was just a matter of "time and patience"... sort of something they learn gradually. Like "with age comes wisdom!". 

Geddy is really good around our neighbourhood, esp. if we walk late and not many ppl are out... but now that it's finally warming up, we are starting to walk her out in public, on nature trails.... since I want her to be "good" about walking them in future. I do know that you have to "go thru this phase" to get to the other side... but it sure is frustrating. Not to mention, I think my arms are beginning to seperate from the rest of my body


----------



## HovawartMom (Aug 10, 2006)

With a very strong puller,I would buy a prong collar.
It teaches them not to pull,in a very short period of time.You could buy a prong for meduim size dog and add pieces,to fit her neck,when she grows..
Ask a trainer,to teach you how to use it,propally.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

My dogs do not pull. It is vital as we have members of the household with trouble walking and poor balance. I do not allow any pulling at all. Starlite wanted to as a young, enthusiastic pup. A few corrections with a prong collar and he's good as new. I never need it now. Keira will get her turn soon


----------



## gold'nchocolate (May 31, 2005)

I use a prong collar because Biscuit will, and has, pulled me right off my feet without it. Here is a good article about the Prong Collar. 

Training With the Prong Collar - article by Suzanne Clothier

The good thing is that just because you may use something like this now, while they are learning not to pull, you don't have to use it forever. My previous golden only needed one for around 6 mo and then she was all set.


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

Prong collar and a good trainer. I know clicker training works for some dogs, but after seeing how it did nothing for my high prey drive dog, I'm tempted to burn my clicker.

The prong collar must be fitted properly and you can get detailed instructions at Leerburg Dog Training - How to fit a Prong Collar for Dog Training I purchased a prong collar from k9toolbox.com since I needed one that didn't change my dog's coat colour, but I bought a 3.25mm (medium) gauge link that was 23inches (58cm) in length. Leerburg.com also sells the prong collars in stainless steel.

The prong collar is not a substitute for training. We can also use a choke collar on Wiggles which is what the trainer uses, but I find the correction much harsher and less effective in my hands. Everyday, I practice heeling, heel sits, down, come, stay etc on the prong collar. I'm at a point where I can randomly put Wiggles on a nylon slip collar and he'll heel during the walk.

Ditch the Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness,...I bought one and it took no time for Wiggles to continue pulling...like I said before..if anyone wants mine PM me...Most of the time, the GL or Halti will not teach your dog to walk nicely once it's removed.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

Agree, though the clicker is fantastic for training new behaviors, I don't use it to stop obnoxious pulling. I just do not tolerate that crap (pulling).


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

AquaClaraCanines said:


> Agree, though the clicker is fantastic for training new behaviors, I don't use it to stop obnoxious pulling. I just do not tolerate that crap (pulling).


My right arm is disproportionately larger than my left arm because I tried all these different methods stop, act like a tree, use treats to lead the dog on loose leash, etc and Wiggles STILL pulled.

I've learned a lot from the trainer and from leerburg.com and I don't tolerate it anymore. It just meant I was letting my dog be pack leader on the walk and it was making life difficult!

The last thing any Golden Retriever owner needs is to be pulled INTO traffic because their dog wants to chase a dog, squirrel, rabbit or car across the street....


----------



## Sivin (Nov 23, 2006)

Hi!
Just to let you know you're not alone during this exasperating stage. We also have a seven month old female, Cara, who probably weighs 52 at this point as well. Our trainer strongly urged us to get a Gentle Leader which we did and it works when Cara has it on.

We took a nice walk yesterday and all was well, but returning home she pulled the thing off her muzzle. I didn't want to bother putting it back on and so removed the GL and walked her home the old way -- she pulled me. It was awful.

I just cling to memories of how our late golden Jodie was just as awful as a pup -- and how she turned out just fine! Just stick with it, and know your arm is not alone!

Helaine


----------



## RickGibbs (Dec 16, 2005)

Cosmo is great on a leash....but Samson, especially if he knows we're on our way to the park, wants to pull...and choke himself...all the way there. Just walking around the block or up to the store, he does pretty good. But as soon as he knows we're going to the park, I better be ready...

I've been considering a prong collar, just to see how much it'll help.


----------



## T'Jara (Mar 25, 2007)

I think you have to have patience... what you're doing ist good. If it can be avoided, don't use a prong (there's a reason it's been banned from the shops in Austria).

Have you ever tried distracting him before he see's other people/dogs? It means you have to see them first, though...

When Nando was a pup I'd always pull out his favourite toy when there was another dog in the distance and distract Nando with a play of "Tug of war". After some time, when he spotted another dog in the distance, he'd look up at me: "Time for a fun game, huh?"


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

Unfortunately, pulling from a dog's perspective IS the reward as are chasing animals, objects, etc. Does your dog see these as even better rewards? if so, the treats become secondary and the dog will go after the better reward!! There's no consequence to the pulling so it continues.

As for catching your dog seeing things first before he does....dogs rely on smell, then sight and lastly sound. He doesn't have to "see" something to start the chase and pull you down the street. It should be YOUR walk. You pay the mortgage, you buy the food, you are the pack leader. Your dog may love you, but does he respect you?


----------



## ty823 (Feb 7, 2006)

Maybe its just our dog, but I never had to get any special collars. The best way to stop pulling was to just not let her pull you. (harder then it sounds.)
As soon as the leash gets tight, give it a yank, stop in your tracks, and don't let her pull you one inch. Wait for her to heel or even sit before you start moving again. 
It will be slow going at first. You might only go half a block in 10 minutes, but they'll understand soon that when the leash gets pulled tight, they aren't moving. 
IMO, walking with a loose leash is one of the greatest luxuries of having a trained dog


----------



## Levi's Mom (Mar 19, 2007)

Oh I am so thankful for this thread!! And I feel the same way. Levi is only 4.5 months old and he thinks he's a lead sled dog!! Walking him is killing my arm. We have tried the sit, wait, walk... and when they pull you tug them back.and start all over.. doesn't work with him. He sits and when you take the first step he leaps ahead and pulls. I keep the lease very tight, but he would sooner choke himself... determind!! We are still just using a regular collar, but I will definately be looking into the prong collar or the choke chain... It's to the point I HATE going for a walk with him, it's so frustrating. I'm very thankful for this forum and all the responses here will surely help.. I can't wait for the day that I can write back and help someone with this problem and say I remember when Levi would do this... lol.. Thanks everyone!!


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

Prongs are far kinder than chokes... for the record.

Most dogs I have handled have only need the prong collar a few sessions. I never use it on regular walks- only for a training session. My dogs walk with a buckle collar or off leash.


----------



## T'Jara (Mar 25, 2007)

> Oh I am so thankful for this thread!! And I feel the same way. Levi is only 4.5 months old and he thinks he's a lead sled dog!! Walking him is killing my arm. We have tried the sit, wait, walk... and when they pull you tug them back.and start all over.. doesn't work with him. He sits and when you take the first step he leaps ahead and pulls. I keep the lease very tight, but he would sooner choke himself... determind!! We are still just using a regular collar, but I will definately be looking into the prong collar or the choke chain... It's to the point I HATE going for a walk with him, it's so frustrating. I'm very thankful for this forum and all the responses here will surely help.. I can't wait for the day that I can write back and help someone with this problem and say I remember when Levi would do this... lol.. Thanks everyone!!


Dou you tell her right 'n' wrong, too?

I mean when she pulls and you yank her leash or pull her back, do you ever tell her "no" (firmly). At the second she's with you, do you praise her and talk to her? (nice, high pitched voice?)

I didn't have to use a prong on all 9 dogs I had.

This is how I proceed:

I put them on leash and we walk a few steps, if the dogs pays attention I praise them and talk to them. When they do get ahead and try to pull I tell them "no" (very firmly, almost a growl). If they turn around I praise them instantly and we walk a few inches, I talk to them. When they pay attention they get a treat (do not walk with treat in hand but have it in a pocket) or we play tug of war with a toy. I only train 2-3 meters with puppies and only train longer distances later on.

If you decide on a prong/choke chain. Please have someone very experienced showing you how to use it.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

I will agree with that- especially in the case of a choker, which is very dangerous if not being actively USED... NEVER let a dog pull you along on a choker.


----------



## Judi (Feb 26, 2007)

*I strongly recomend:*

Obedience school. I was told that my Golden was "High Energy" and I ended up with Tendonitis in the shoulder. I don't want that to happen to anyone else.


----------



## Lego&Jacub (Jul 18, 2006)

Jud said:


> Obedience school. I was told that my Golden was "High Energy" and I ended up with Tendonitis in the shoulder. I don't want that to happen to anyone else.


We're in the advanced classes now...


----------



## Judi (Feb 26, 2007)

*Good*

How many classes are you taking?


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

AquaClaraCanines said:


> I will agree with that- especially in the case of a choker, which is very dangerous if not being actively USED... NEVER let a dog pull you along on a choker.


I agree with ACC that a you need a trainer to show you how to use a choke. Aside from it being dependent on which side your dog is heeling (left), the collar has to be placed on correctly, and you have to have the leash loose first before you do a correction!

Unfortunately, Wiggles' temperament is on the dominant/stubborn side (even more so than his dam) and it takes a two by four to get the message across to him if it's something he doesn't want to do. 

I do use the prong as a safety issue as well because Wiggles can knock me off my feet if he pulls suddenly. He is also much calmer on the prong and walks past people instead of jumping at them.

I DID TRY the "humane" methods and like the arguements that people get into about food and training, use something that works with your dog. My walks with the dog serve both the purpose of exercise AND potty time because we don't ahve a fenced yard, but even when we fence it this year, I still plan on walking everyday because the yard is small and Wiggles wouldn't get enough exercise. If I got hurt because Wiggles was pulling my arm off, no one else would be walking him!!


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

A correctly used prong *IS* humane- far more so than denying a dog daily walks and exercise


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

AquaClaraCanines said:


> A correctly used prong *IS* humane- far more so than denying a dog daily walks and exercise


I know it is, but I think there are some who do think it's NOT humane. If you take a prong collar on your thigh and then a choke collar...I bet you the choke will do a LOT more damage...I just wince thinking about it.

I know that I've done my job and so has Wiggles when we sit around in the evening and he's tuckered out from playing and walking. He just sits at the window watching things go by.


----------



## Emma&Tilly (May 15, 2005)

hmmm...Ive never seen a prong collar before in my life...we don't use them over here...somehow we manage ok in the UK without them! (maybe we have loads of pulling dogs, who knows?!) Did you see any when you lived in the UK AquaClaraCanines? (I remember you said you lived here.) Ive never seen one on sale or on any dog and Im involved in a few doggy activities and walk in popular dog walking areas. I truely don't mean to sound obnoxious about this, I am just wanting to understand about a training tool that seems so common in the US but is not used here. Could someone please explain to me how they DON'T hurt...all Im seeing when I have read about them are prongs that dig in to the neck when the dog pulls. If they work so well after one or two sessions, this would strongly lead me to believe that they MUST hurt to have such an impact. Ive heard that they are meant to regain the dogs 'focus' by the sensation round their neck...but is that not just a way of saying it bloody hurts so the dog decides it is in it's best interest not to pull? How else could it work...? If it is merely an 'uncomfortable' sensation and not actually painful why doesn't the dog just continue to pull? 
I look forward to hearing from people that use them and know about them and how they work...would you explain them to me?


----------



## Lego&Jacub (Jul 18, 2006)

Jud said:


> How many classes are you taking?


Each set is 10 weeks long... one hour per week. We have three more weeks left in the first advanced set. Then we'll begin our next set.


----------



## T'Jara (Mar 25, 2007)

> Ive never seen a prong collar before in my life...we don't use them over here...somehow we manage ok in the UK without them! (maybe we have loads of pulling dogs, who knows?!)


Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!

I am involved in quite a few doggie/retriever events over here and no one I know uses a prong to teach the dog not to pull (especially since law prohibits them!) They are somewhat more common or seen with German Shepard and dog breeds like those, but not really.
Even the choker has a bad reputation, most people really start off talking to their dog and reinforcing the dog not pulling on the leash instead of punishing the pulling (if you reinforce the dog not pulling he won't quite soon anyway). Some people do yank the leash if the dog pulls, combined with a growling-no and than reinforces the "no pulling". That works too.
Lately also, collars have become less frequent for puppies and people use harnesses. I don't like harnesses,... but the dogs neck is very, very sensitive. The lesser a yank on the leash, a prong or a choker is used, the better. There have been studies about the harm done to a dogs neck by collars...


----------



## Emma&Tilly (May 15, 2005)

I don't often see chokers around here anymore either...I think they went 'out' of dog training about 15 years ago and definitely have bad reputation (they have always been banned in any training class I have ever been to!) I don't think I have seen a dog walked on one is a LONG time. Most dogs I see are generally walked on just a regular collar or maybe a halti or harness. I really think that if you are willing to put time and effort into training then you will get results!! I understand now-a-days that people feel they need instant results, but instant results and dog training don't often go hand in hand! If my arm was getting ripped out because of a pulling dog I would would probably try a head collar and continue with a lot of training. I can understand HOW you achieve fast results with a headcollar, you are guiding a different part of the dog, the strength of the pull is no longer coming from the neck and shoulders...it makes sense to me and I am secure in the knowledge that I am not causing pain to my dog. Something that I still can't work out about the Prong collar...how DOES it work without causing pain round the neck?


----------



## Princess Bella (Oct 17, 2006)

I run with my golden so I don't mind the pulling. I let her pull that gets me running, she's faster than me though and will not allow me to get ahead...


----------



## Boofy Bonbon (Feb 25, 2007)

I've never seen a prong collar in the UK either. But if there were ones round here they would be banned, I'm pretty sure.

Chokers are also rarely seen round here, the nearest to one I see (especially with labs) is a 'half check' which is a collar with a little chain instead of all chain, many people say it's ineffective anyway.

I use haltis, they are fabulous once the dog is used to it, and if fitted properly do NOT ride up into the eyes. They don't work in parks but they are off lead mostly anyway, unless near a road.

My friend clicker trained her Cocker Spaniels to walk to heel so it goes to show you don't need anything apart from patience. If you had seen them before the difference is amazing.


----------



## BELLA (Nov 13, 2006)

I am using a halter type made by Yuppie Puppy that is sure working well. It goes under her front legs and if she pulls, it tightens on the legs. I swear by this thing----It was only about $12 and well worth it.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

If you have the patience for a halti or a clicker, go for it... not saying it's bad. I personally hate haltis. I admit to having no patience for pulling. I have multiple dogs and a disabled partner. I want the dog to stop pulling after one or two sessions, so I go my way. It works for our needs 

I also use half-check collars, but greyhound style ones, wide and made of silk. They are ineffective for corrections being wide, soft, and decorative. I use them, though, bc a dog with a narrow skull cannot slip out of them, and they're pretty


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

I saw fursaver chokes on GSDs and Mals in the UK. I never used a prong collar there, but I had Salukis and Whippets. One would never need more than a light correction with a buckle collar or decorative sighthound collar to stop a sighthound pulling. Most never pull in the first place. Even my 110 pound Borzoi would go belly up like a giant kitten with more than a soft "No!" and a light jerk with a buckle collar.

I had one Golden there, and she was well trained when I brought her there- never even needed a leash.

On the other hand, my husband had the stupidest, most obnoxious, pig headed Springer Spaniel you could ever imagine. I wished to HELL I had a prong, or an electric collar, for that monster. Nothing, not even my clicker expert friend (who competes and wins with BEAGLES in UK obedience trials) could stop that lunatic dragging us down the street. She was fine off leash, but to walk her to the fields from my house I had to string her up on a fine show choke above her windpipe, bc in that position a dog simply cannot pull, and it doesn't gag them. (imagine the position of an American show Golden posed for a win photo).


----------



## Boofy Bonbon (Feb 25, 2007)

That's fine, to each their own. 

Bonnie actually walks fine without a halti most the time anyway (4 years old) so doesn't always need it. JJ who is 20 months approx came to us with no lead training at all so the fact that he is getting better to walking to heel without a halti is pretty good. 

I hardly see any dogs pulling anymore, apart from the occasional few. Not every training method works but there is usually at least one that suits an individual dog, there's just the matter of finding it.


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

I worked on Wiggles' pulling me down the street from the time we picked him up at 4 months old to 11 months old. I tried all the different methods and collars. I was also working with Wiggles on a daily basis and it still didn't work. I doubt that most people would call me IMPATIENT about pulling due to that time spent. In fact, my husband thinks we should have gotten the prong earlier.

I fiddled with the straps of a Halti at the pet store and even the owner thought it was kind of flimsy for Wiggles....I wasn't going to chance that breaking on me....Other people in the neighbourhood who use those haven't put the time to train their dogs and their dogs still pull them down the street.

To each their own.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

No I don't think you seem impatient at all. But I know I am


----------



## tintallie (May 31, 2006)

ACC, how do you walk multiple dogs?! Do you get one to heel on each side of you or do you have a pack on just your left side? Do you use one leash for each dog in your pack?

I saw someone in the neighbourhood whose GR and Lab charged at Wiggles and I and the handler had no control because his dogs were on one leash with a coupler device. I'm nowhere near to getting a 2nd dog (since DH is technically allergic), but I'm going to work at gettiing a 2nd dog


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

Each of my dogs has his or her own lead. None of them would dream of charging another dog- even if they were not leashed (except maybe my puppy. But she'd just want to kiss the other dog  ). I start each dog on good skills individually, though! It helps that most of my dogs have been sighthounds. They truly are 100 times easier to live with and handle than a Golden. I never had to train my Whippets, Greyhounds, Borzoi, and Salukis not to pull. A toddler could walk every sighthound I ever owned with his pinky finger through the leash loop. 

The Goldens, on the other hand, I work one on one until they reach a level of walking I find accpetable. Usually it takes me only a few sessions before they get it, and if it's a dog I have raised from babyhood the good habits start young. My dogs walk in front of me in a fan formation  All I ask is that they do not pull, and do not turn around and tangle up when I stop. If we're in the city, they walk two on the left and one on the right (or two on the right if I am walking four) and I say "heel" because when I do formal attention obedience ring heelwork I say "close!"

They seem to know the difference and when they have to stay by my side. The little one is learning her place... they tend to pick a side of the "fan formation" they most prefer.

I still have a long way to go with Starlite to get him like my Whippet is. Rigby is off leash when we walk around the nieghborhood or park, and he completely ignores other dogs, even if they're lunging and barking at him... he'll walk right past as though he doesn't see them. I'd be a liar if I didn't admit I a proud of that and that I enjoy the looks of awe I get LOL

Starlite mostly ignores other dogs even off leash, too, but that's only bc *I* have the BALL! So that's cheating 

Hey if hubby can handle one GR, what's two?


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

This is making me bug for another Greyhound 

As much as I adore sighthounds, though, and they're easy going natures, I love love love the fun I have with my beautiful Goldens. Goldens are so much better suited for teaching commands, tricks, and for playing and swimming and so forth. I really think I need two of each type, though- My Whippet is unfairly pitted against two nutty Goldens


----------



## Gldiebr (Oct 10, 2006)

You can walk a Whippet offleash? I'm in awe. I'm so used to hearing about them bolting. And with Moose being half Italian Greyhound... he has to be on lead at all times, even on the beach. (We use a long lead there, and he loves it.) 

Bailey is still pulling. She'll do well with her harness, but the second I go to a normal collar, she starts the pulling again... obnoxiously. Arg. 

I think part of the problem is that I walk with both, and haven't done many separate training walks with her in the past 6 months (she just turned 1). I need to try doing them again, daily, and see if that helps. 

Her obedience class starts 2 weeks from tonight... I can't wait! I need to find out what I'm doing wrong. She's a smart girl, very sweet, so I know it's me. Should be fun!


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

My Whippet is the best off leash dog I ever had- no contest- not even an inkling of a contest. He's virtually never leashed and never really has been. Nor was my other Whippet. My other fantastic off leasher was one of my tiny little senior rescue Salukis. She was my shadow


----------



## lgnutah (Feb 26, 2007)

One thing I learned in obedience classes that was really helpful was the trainer pointed out to me that I was keeping the leash tight when Brooks was walking right beside me. So in effect, I was training him to the pulling sensation. Do you see what I mean?
So, she got me to focus on loose leash walking when Brooks was right by my side. We only go when the leash is loose. If it tightens, we stop. 
I also do lots of having him walk by my side, then I suddenly stop at which point he is to sit. Then I tell him to look at me (he will look for a very brief moment only) then I tell him to "walk by me". We do this again, and again, and again during our walk.
However, I always have time on our walk when I give the release command (I use "OK") which tells him he is "at ease" and can walk away from me, sniff things, etc.


----------



## AquaClaraCanines (Mar 5, 2006)

This is good advice IMO... the leash should always be loose.


----------



## Alpenglunen (Apr 4, 2007)

I've got a couple of pullers, and they're especially good at feeding off of each other's bad habits/energy when walked together. They are an 8 year old, overweight, medium-energy female, and one of her sons, a 3 year old, high-energy male in great shape that belong to my roommate. I've had a ton of success improving their general manners and behavior over the past few months. The older female is the one with more pulling issues, though both take small corrections very well, even if they do forget quickly and go back into pull-mode.

I've haven't been working with them long, but have come a long way using some of the basic techniques from Cesar Millan, from his TV show and book. I'd say the biggest improvement to on-leash behavior have been the consistent, long and intense off-leash sessions I've been maintaining with them in an effort to drain energy. I also credit other improved behavior to more exercise. I take them on daily hikes up some of the local hilltop peaks. Luckily we are able to go on a number of great open hiking trails from the front door, and drive to a few others on occasion where we can freely go off-leash without hassle. Sometimes with a visit to the dog park down the block at the end. I'm not as strict with the follow-the-leader approach, mostly because they are simply much faster than me up the hills and need to cover more ground than I can manage over that 1-2 hour period. Most of the terrain consists of some good steep uphill climbs. I do keep a strict distance policy, however, so that even if in front they are coming back for direction, and maintaining a migration energy, not just tracking and peeing.

The dogs were used to pulling with my roommate, as he rarely gave them enough exercise on a daily basis, and let them get away with it most of the time. All I have to do is clip the leash, and the older female thinks it pull time. She has to be reminded each and every time to be calm and submissive on the leash, rather than excited dominant when we leave the house, and after making it out the door.

I've had a decent background in training and obedience, but haven't had any pups in recent years. There were a lot of basic pack behavior/dog psychology ideas that I've realized I had used often in the past with my own dogs and those of friends, but reading and watching Millan recently has given me a much more methodical approach with added consistency and reasoning behind those behaviors. I grew up ina ranch environment, much like Millan, and appreciate some of the examples from the country environment that he often cites in his book. I'm extremely happy with the results that some simple exercise and discipline changes have brought in a short time frame for my new friends.

We are still working on some other issue with the walk as well, especially some off-leash behavior with the younger male when he spots other dogs. He tends to go into instant puppy play-mode and doesn't always have the best approach manners(read: full-speed ahead), but it's getting better with more oppurtunities, or as Cesar might say, more challenges for him to overcome. Sometimes the energy alone can cause some aggressive responses from other dogs, which is why they always get a good hillside flogging before going to the dog park. 

So, I'd say the biggest issue is exercise, exercise, exercise, and that's the base root of any and all the behavior issue I've encountered. It's a constant theme. Things are much easier when they are drained of energy. They live for the walks, and are content afterward.


----------

