# In desperate need of suggestions for help with training outdoor recall!



## ceegee (Mar 26, 2015)

I would suggest that you start over with a different command. Why? Because he has learned that it's possible to ignore or disobey your current recall command. If you're using "come", change it for a different word.

Never, ever use your new command word in a situation where he might disobey or ignore it. Only use it when he's on a long line so that you can reel him in if he doesn't respond on his own. I'd also suggest not placing him in situations where you might have to call him, until your new command is 100% effective. He should always be on a long line for now.

Another thing you might try to get him to come into the house after doing his business is to reward him when he comes in. Keep taking him out on leash, but reward when you come back into the house. Give him something he likes - a piece of cheese or cooked chicken, for example. Once he's showing enthusiasm for coming back into the house (this may take a period of weeks), you can try the same thing with a long line: let him out, then call him and reel him with the line in if he doesn't obey.

Maybe try "chase" games too. When you're playing outside with him, have him chase you and give him a reward when he "catches" you.

You need to be more fun than whatever he chooses to do when he ignores your command.

When teaching the recall command, start out small. I always start one step away from my dog, and reward him when he comes. Then two steps, etc., until I'm a kitchen length away. If he doesn't come at once, it can be effective to run away or step back so he will follow you. You have to be patient. Recall isn't something you teach in a few days or even a few weeks. It can take months or even longer. But it can be done. My high-drive dog descended from hunting lines can be called off a squirrel, for example, and comes immediately if called even when playing with other dogs. But it took a lot of work to get there. And an awful lot of cheese in our case ...!


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## pawsnpaca (Nov 11, 2014)

It sounds like you probably are already doing most of the things that would be recommended to teach a recall. Unfortunately, the only way a recall will be 100%, even in the face of distractions, is if the dog learns that coming to you, immediately and every time, will _always _result in something better than what he's otherwise doing. That requires hundreds, if not thousands, of repetitions and reinforcement, in a variety of environments, with the absolute _best _things in the world delivered to the dog as soon as he gets back to you (the dog gets to determine what is rewarding, BTW. We may think that steak is the highest value reward we could possibly give our dogs, but HE may think that a game of ball or tug or chase or a Cheeto is a better reward). You need to practice that recall multiple times a day, and _never _call your dog unless you are prepared with some sort of high-value reward. And while you are training, you also need to never give him the option of NOT coming... Which usually means putting him on a leash or long-line and bringing him back to you (happily and making it worth his while when he gets to you) if he doesn't immediately respond. Every time his coming to you results in something "bad" happening (you being angry, being brought inside, ending his game, no reward, or boring reward, etc.) it weakens his recall response. What you want is a dog who whips back to run to you every time you call without even thinking about it... which is only achieved reliably by a very long and predictable history of GREAT things happening when he comes.

If it's really important to you to achieve that truly reliable recall, and you are willing to invest time and money to get it, you may want to look into Susan Garrett's "Recallers" program. It's an online program and it is NOT cheap, and it's only offered once or twice a year, but it's one of the few programs I've seen that seems to have consistent success using positive training methods to get a rock-solid recall, especially if you already have a dog that believes that responding to a recall is optional...


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## GoldenDude (Nov 5, 2016)

Don't be afraid to try a different reward than food. My Goldens and Lab are EXTREMELY food motivated so I tried food motivation with my Clumber. Ugh. Training her was horribly frustrating - until I realized that she loves, loves, loves squeak toys. Her reward is receiving a very small squeak toy (we used it in the conformation ring) for a brief period of time. (The toy fits in my pocket so it's easy to use during training - much like food is.) Just as my Goldens will attempt anything for food, my Clumber will try anything for the chance to have that squeak toy in her mouth for a few seconds.


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## LynneL (Jun 19, 2018)

Great advice so far, thanks so much! These suggestions sound very encouraging, but now I have a few other thoughts and questions.
Our current recall word is "come". We use this inside and outside. Usually it's delivered "Leo, come!" In the house, no problem.... he comes running! Sometimes he receives an edible reward, sometimes a little play time, and sometimes just enthusiastic praise and attention. This was what the trainers in "puppy school" taught, and again - it works well for us indoors. When we use the command "Leo, come!" outside - probably 80% of the time, Leo ignores it. He may or may not look in our direction, or may creep a bit closer only to quickly dash off in the opposite direction. We have tried to get him to "chase" us, but he almost never does, and we never chase him. We have also tried to use the command "Leo, inside!" while we have him on-leash after going outside for the bathroom or to take a long walk, then we enthusiastically run with him to the door and we all come in the house. Once "inside", we will reward either with a treat, or praise, or play. Should we be using only ONE recall command for ALL situations (inside and outside the house)?? I think we will change our word to "HERE!" but I'm not sure if we should make that new word exclusive to outdoors?


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## LynneL (Jun 19, 2018)

GoldenDude said:


> Don't be afraid to try a different reward than food. My Goldens and Lab are EXTREMELY food motivated so I tried food motivation with my Clumber. Ugh. Training her was horribly frustrating - until I realized that she loves, loves, loves squeak toys. Her reward is receiving a very small squeak toy (we used it in the conformation ring) for a brief period of time. (The toy fits in my pocket so it's easy to use during training - much like food is.) Just as my Goldens will attempt anything for food, my Clumber will try anything for the chance to have that squeak toy in her mouth for a few seconds.


We have tried toys as a motivator for recall, but this has not been too successful with Leo. He may come to "get" his toy/reward, but then will quickly take it and dash off with it, and run wild all over the yard. We are constantly working on the "Give" and "Drop" commands as well. And again, he does great inside, but not so well outdoors.


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## GrandmaToGoldens (Jul 2, 2019)

It may be helpful to introduce a whistle as well as a new recall command. A whistle is emotion free, which is often not true of verbal commands. Teach him to associate the whistle with something wonderful delivered from your hand and, nine times out of ten, whistle him to you, reward, then release him to run free again.
A solid and instantaneous response to a “lie down”, “flat” or “drop” command is extremely useful. Sometimes, a dog in full flight after prey or rushing to greet someone will respond to a solidly conditioned lie-down command where it will not turn away from whatever it’s heading towards/after.
It also helps to teach your dog to “check in” with you. Take a chair, a book and some treats into the yard. Let your dog run free, sit down and ignore him. Don’t even look at him. If necessary, ask someone else to monitor him for safety from the house. Eventually, he’ll come to you - particularly if you’re eating something flavoursome. Say hello, give him a treat or toss the ball, then turn back to your book. Repeat. Always carry some treats or a ball when you’re working in the yard, to reinforce those check ins.


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