# In a rut - puppy ideas



## Wolfeye (Sep 15, 2015)

No suggestions at the moment - just offering support and a

*WOW THAT PUPPY IS GORGEOUS!*


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Patience and practice, she will get it, she is a puppy, will be for some time. Keep your expectations realistic, lay a solid foundation, through repetition and reward, and build on it, it will all come together in time.

Using her kibble, practicing briefly before meals, is a good idea. You might want to consider mixing in a few higher value treats, if she loses interest in the kibble 'too quickly' - though 5 minutes or so of training at a time, may be the 'limit' of her attention span right now, (learning is 'hard work'), and that is okay.

Consider watching for and rewarding (praise, pets, a small treat) 'offered behaviors' that you like throughout the day. Rewarding for behaviors we can take for granted, but want them to repeat, such as chewing appropriately on a chew toy and not your shoe, resting quietly on a bed, sitting politely for attention, increases the likelihood they will repeat those behaviors more often.


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## solinvictus (Oct 23, 2008)

Great job! In dog training there are the 3 D's. Duration, Distance and Distraction. All of the things that you are training you can build on adding in each of these D's working on each one, one at a time. Another good one to remember is D A S H. The D stands for desire. You want to build that desire to work/play with you. Make sure you make training fun. I like using kibble also for some basic training but it is good to change things up a bit and use something of higher reinforcement at times. And it is also good to give jackpots at times too. It keeps our pups surprised and also hoping which will build desire. Once a pup can do a behavior 8 out of 10 times you can also change it up by using toys and a 30 second or so game as the reinforcement. The A stands for accuracy. Once your pup will sit you want to not accept a sloppy sit but a good sit. You will want to do this with all the behaviors. The S stands for speed. When you ask for a sit you don't want the dog to just mosey on into a sit you want that butt to slap right down. Again with all your behaviors. The H stands for habitat. If your pup can do a behavior at home then you want to move it out onto the road. When you move it out and about you want to start back at the D (build desire) to work out in public. Then the A you will work for the accuracy, the the S the speed. And keep changing habitats as the pup gets good where you are. Dogs are very contextual and watch are body language so a pup may be able to do a sit with you standing by her/his side but not with you 5 feet away or if you are sitting yourself or even if you are lying down. Practice them all. Trainers hear all the time but my dog can do it at home. Sure because that was where the dog was taught but you got to get the dog out into the world to see if the dog can do it there or here.


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## solinvictus (Oct 23, 2008)

Teaching tricks also helps build that bond between the two of you and I can't tell you how many children out in public always want to come and see my dogs. They know that my dogs are smart and can do some fun things. I think this would come in handy at your office to break the ice with children that need a little extra. Surprisingly they all think it is great when I ask my dogs What is on top of a house and my dogs will bark. WOOF! lol There are so many things to teach. Have fun.


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## Piper_the_goldenpuppy (Aug 26, 2016)

I think you're doing a great job!! She's still really quite young. You just have to be realistic about what she's going to be able to do at that age, and let her set the pace. You have lots of time to proof her skills. It sounds like she has a really excellent foundation and is coming along nicely!

I sort of group training into on leash and off leash stuff, and try to address both separately during the day (even though a lot of on-leash skills are initially taught off leash inside). So I try to spend as much time working on heels and automatic sits as I do her regular training (walking on a loose leash on heel is my least favorite thing to train). 

Heeling is a harder skill, especially for a 14 week old puppy. 10 steps is fantastic! Practice a consistent 10 steps, then add turns, changing directions, and adding distance. On a 20 minute walk, spend half the time heeling.= Back in the old days, people didn't even teach dogs this young to heel. It will take some time before she really has that down. I practice a lot off leash inside and have Piper heel when I'm walking around my house, brushing my teeth, etc. I will use higher value treats to go for more difficult things, like putting Piper in a stay with something distracting, or teaching her how to walk on heel for more than what she's doing.

One thing that helps me maintain a good heel is having a command to get her attention and to look at me, so I teach my dogs "watch me." Its pretty easy, I just say her name and watch me and hold a treat up to my face. But its very helpful when you have a dog on a heel and they start to see something interesting outside but haven't left the heel yet. It also helps reinforce having a dog on a heel looking up at you, and if you need to get her attention when she is doing something you don't want any time of the day. 

I think the only other skills I would introduce--if you haven't already, are a good "leave it," "drop it," "watch me." I usually wait until recall is excellent before teaching an emergency recall, but I always teach that to my dogs. Emergency recall is a different word (I use "NOW") than your recall word, to be used only in an emergency, built with the biggest, highest value treat.

I usually make sure sit/down/stay/leave it/drop it/heel/recall/watch are decent before moving on to other things. Generally 1 new skill and/or big distraction each week. She's still really young. They don't have to be perfectly proofed, because you have lots of time to keep building them and that would be impossible with a 14 weeker. I move on to tricks (paw, speak, lay on side, roll over, play dead, speak, dance etc) and then more complex skills, perfect sits and downs etc. Sometimes if I'm bored or she's bored we will do something new. I try to balance our being bored with just not wanting to work on what is hardest for her. Its always more fun to teach something new than proof something. I taught Piper to spin in circles and speak (FINALLY!) yesterday because it rained and we were cooped up inside. 

You can also work on building her retrieving drive by playing lots of games of fetch inside (and out), pairing it with a cue, and rewarding her with a treat. Doing it with two toys (so you always have one in her hand you can show to her), really helps keep interest and the game going. It will help you get her exercised and energy out when she's older. If she naturally has a strong drive, keep building it. 

Kibble is great for training, if she's interested in it. Sometimes dogs will lose interest, or not be as interested in kibble. Its not as great for training a new or more difficult trick. Piper doesn't care about kibble outside or at training class. So we will also use Zukes and the soft grain free Buddy Biscuits, because you can break them into small pieces. String cheese (her favorite!) if she's bored with other treats, at the end of training class, or a new or hard skill. 

I don't use a clicker for training--partly because Piper was wigged out by the sound but mostly because I'm just not facile enough with a clicker to use it consistently the way its intended, so I use YES. But I think to get the most benefit from clicker training, you need to be using it every time. It really helps you shape and build skills more complex skills that way. It also might be confusing for her--since she's only 6 weeks into training, to not always have that marker. The key is consistency, so you are communicating with her as effectively as possible. 

Keep doing what you are doing. You guys are on the right track! It sounds like she's highly motivated, and you are doing all the things you need to do!!


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## Atis (Jul 8, 2014)

You sound like you are already doing great and I agree with all the other suggestions. Not to overwhelm you but I was thinking about all the experiences we tried to offer our boys when they were puppies and the list in my head got too long. I found this link that has a very thorough list of ideas for experiences you could try. You don't have to do them all in one day  and you certainly don't want to overdo any in one go but it provides a wealth of ideas. Many of these things are actually included in different therapy organization tests, so the earlier you start the easy these things will be for her. If you come across any that that seem to stress her go easy and most important work on them in a positive way like you would any training experience. One of the most common questions I still get when out with my boys is "how often do yo train them?". My answer from day one has been "always", even now that they are over 5 years old. 


Socialize Your Puppy ? Our Checklist Will Help


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## Loisiana (Jul 29, 2009)

If you think you might want to get into obedience competitions, look at the exercises for the advanced classes and see how you can break them down and introduce them to a puppy. That way you are teaching them new stuff rather than rehashing the same old stuff day after day.


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## mylissyk (Feb 25, 2007)

Oh my gosh, your puppy is ONLY 16 weeks old. She is amazing to be doing all the things she can already. 

She is much too young to have a perfect, or extended heel. That will come over many months of working with her, and your training sessions should be only a few minutes at a time. Take into account she is a baby, with a naturally short attention span. Getting her to "stay" while out front with distractions, even for a few seconds at a time, is incredible! 

You should be really proud of her already, but keep in mind she is so young, she is a just baby! Lots of patience, and repetition on the basic foundation skills, but don't expect solid anything until she is a lot older, like even a year.


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## smp (Apr 27, 2016)

Charliethree said:


> Keep your expectations realistic, ...it will all come together in time. ...rewarding 'offered behaviors'





solinvictus said:


> 3 D's. Duration, Distance and Distraction. ...Another good one to remember is D A S H. The D stands for desire. You want to build that desire to work/play with you. Make sure you make training fun. ...The A stands for accuracy. Once your pup will sit you want to not accept a sloppy sit but a good sit. You will want to do this with all the behaviors. The S stands for speed. When you ask for a sit you don't want the dog to just mosey on into a sit you want that butt to slap right down. ...The H stands for habitat. If your pup can do a behavior at home then you want to move it out onto the road. When you move it out and about you want to start back at the D (build desire) to work out in public. Then the A you will work for the accuracy, the the S the speed.





solinvictus said:


> Teaching tricks ...would come in handy at your office to break the ice with children ...What is on top of a house and my dogs will bark. WOOF! lol





Piper_the_goldenpuppy said:


> ...let her set the pace. You have lots of time to proof her skills. ...group training into on leash and off leash stuff,...I practice a lot off leash inside...I will use higher value treats to go for more difficult things...having a command to get her attention ...."watch me." ....I usually wait until recall is excellent before teaching an emergency recall, but I always teach that to my dogs. Emergency recall is a different word (I use "NOW") than your recall word, to be used only in an emergency, built with the biggest, highest value treat.
> 
> I usually make sure sit/down/stay/leave it/drop it/heel/recall/watch are decent before moving on to other things. Generally 1 new skill and/or big distraction each week....You can also work on building her retrieving drive by playing lots of games of fetch inside (and out), pairing it with a cue, and rewarding her with a treat. Doing it with two toys (so you always have one in her hand you can show to her),....we will also use Zukes and the soft grain free Buddy Biscuits, because you can break them into small pieces. String cheese (her favorite!) if she's bored with other treats, at the end of training class, or a new or hard skill.





Atis said:


> ...I found this link that has a very thorough list of ideas for experiences you could try. ... "how often do yo train them?". My answer from day one has been "always", even now that they are over 5 years old.
> Socialize Your Puppy ? Our Checklist Will Help





Loisiana said:


> ....obedience competitions,





mylissyk said:


> ...much too young to have a perfect, or extended heel. ...don't expect solid anything until she is a lot older, like even a year.


THANKS EVERYONE!!! That is some really fantastic advice. I especially love the DASH mnemonic Solinvictus, and Laura, thanks so much for all that time and wonderful info! I'm glad to hear that we're doing well. I think the biggest reason I want to get a better heel is just to be able to take her on walks and burn more energy without having her develop a bad habit of pulling on the leash. While I wouldn't trust her in a dangerous situation, off leash she doesn't seem to stray too far - usually stays around 10-20 feet and will check in with me often. Is it OK (in a safe place like a trail in the woods, etc.) to let her do this more, or will allowing her more distance with walks eventually make it harder to walk at a heel? Will she get confused, or do your dogs understand the difference of needing to walk on a leash vs. a "free walk?" If I get some time today, I'll see if I can post a video of what we're doing. I feel like I have a team of professional/personal trainers helping me now! I'm going to have to figure out a way to pay you all!


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## solinvictus (Oct 23, 2008)

"I want to get a better heel is just to be able to take her on walks and burn more energy without having her develop a bad habit of pulling on the leash"

Heel is a position. It is a dog next to your left leg, the dogs ear or neck/shoulder in line with your left seam of your pants with the dogs head up looking at you. A dog can be in heel position while sitting, standing, lying down and walking. Please do not poison this cue. Young pups are sponges so starting to teach it now can be great but if you teach it wrong and build in bad habits you will continuely be frustrated trying to fix it. 
My personal opinion by having a dog heel on walks doesn't really let the dog be a dog and enjoy what they like to do. All rewards/reinforcement for heel position are given at the seam of your pants, with her head still up. Please teach it but don't pair it with her casual walks to burn energy. Make it a separate training time for now.

"s it OK (in a safe place like a trail in the woods, etc.) to let her do this more, or will allowing her more distance with walks eventually make it harder to walk at a heel? Will she get confused, or do your dogs understand the difference of needing to walk on a leash vs. a "free walk?""

I would teach this skill both without a leash and with a leash. That checking in and coming back to you is a winner in my book. 

On your casual walks I would reward the pup, every time she looks at you or comes even close to the heel position. But I wouldn't ask for a heel. I would only give the reinforcement when she is in an area that you do not have to stretch out your arm any distance to give it to her.

A few pictures of heel position I grabbed off the net.


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## mylissyk (Feb 25, 2007)

Be very careful about letting her run loose off leash. She is checking in with you now, but it will only take one time of her ignoring your calling her back for her to learn she doesn't have to come when called. She is much too young to have a solid "recall", if you want to play off leash find places that are fenced so you don't have worry about her racing off down a trail after a rabbit (or a leaf!) and losing her.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

If it helps - and mute the video as I put in over the top background music (LOL) and you can skip out the rest of the video after the dogs start playing. The first portion of the video though was a daily training routine that we did. That was separate from walks. Type of treats I used were generally slice of bread torn into pieces. Heavy treating back then.

Before feeding meals, my guys would do tricks. Typically the spinning thing or position changes. 

Using kibble for treats - I don't get into that. I want my dogs fed set meals in their bowls. They just eat less kibble if given a lot of treats throughout the day.

This was when my little guy was about six months old. These are the training goals and behaviors you could have in a dog by six months. And ideally are the foundation stuff for going forward and playing in competition obedience. And I think it really great that you are thinking ahead to getting out there with your dog. Besides the pride in having a well-trained dog for life, there is also that bond with your dog that is getting built up and reinforced.


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