# What’s your practice routine?



## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Just curious as to how, how often, and what you practice (train) relevant to showing, and how you determine these things based on the dog in front of you. 

Additionally, do you do any physical work with your dog that is specific to showing vs something you would do anyway for the health of your dog?


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

When starting out with Bertie.... I was going outside every day and training down and backs to get my dog used to the pattern (stack for the judge, trot a straight line to a point and back to a point, stack for the judge). 

I don't do that anymore, but I also have a seasoned dog. He knows his job out there and pretty much could go around the ring by himself now.... 

With a young dog and/or if I were starting fresh with a pup - I'd still do the same pattern training + more free stack practice.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

When they are about 4 months old I start training three things : stack on the grooming table (no food), free bait on the ground (with food), and trotting on a lead (down & back). Maybe 5-10 minutes a few times a week. Once they can do that stuff I start putting it together, have someone go over them like a judge a time or two, then THAT'S IT. The ring is our training. 
The only time I will do something at home is if the dog starts to do something weird in the ring. Example, Brix started to lag behind me when we made the turn on the down and back. Maybe half a dozen times I worked with him out in the road in front of my house and trained him out of it. Done.
Conformation handling is hard because the handler needs a LOT more work than the dog ever does. First dog burn out is really common.


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

K9-Design said:


> When they are about 4 months old I start training three things : stack on the grooming table (no food), free bait on the ground (with food), and trotting on a lead (down & back). Maybe 5-10 minutes a few times a week. Once they can do that stuff I start putting it together, have someone go over them like a judge a time or two, then THAT'S IT. The ring is our training.
> The only time I will do something at home is if the dog starts to do something weird in the ring. Example, Brix started to lag behind me when we made the turn on the down and back. Maybe half a dozen times I worked with him out in the road in front of my house and trained him out of it. Done.
> Conformation handling is hard because the handler needs a LOT more work than the dog ever does. First dog burn out is really common.


Good information! Thanks! I’m getting a late start with Pilot but nobody would have guessed he would grow into such a beautiful boy! I really don’t know how people pick out show puppies. I don’t feel so bad that I didn’t really have time to practice my conformation homework. I hope I’m not overdoing it with him.


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## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Thank you, Megora and K9-Design!

It's so helpful to hear the specifics of how other people approach this.

Megora, I like your idea-- the down and back is fun for the dog and good practice for the handler.

K9-Design, good point about the human needing more practice than the dog. (Which can easily lead to burnout!) 


Another question.... do you have a way you start your down and back with your dog or when you are about to go around the ring? I've observed a handler be very methodical with this, in that she takes a few slow steps and then picks up speed and then slows down-- almost as though there are a specific number of steps she takes that are slow. Obviously everyone changes their speed, but it doesn't look as methodical. Or another handler who shows her dog an open (empty) hand before they get going so her dog won't be looking at her while they move. 

I still have yet to set foot in the ring and am not planning on it anytime soon (or ever) but I still watch and try to learn.


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## FosterGolden (Mar 10, 2014)

A friend of mine did Sue Ailsby's conformation class on Fenzi Dog Sport Academy. She also goes to a handling class about twice a month to get her pup acclimated to working around other dogs as he's frantically social. She'd never handled a dog before and knew nothing about it. He got his first point last month at 8 months and his first major at 9 months at a very large show. Her handling isn't yet perfect, but she says without Sue she'd be clueless in there. I've heard a lot about Sue's classes and I know she is a hoot!


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## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

That's great, Foster Golden, about your friend! Does she have a golden, too? 

I saw those classes through Fenzi and was wondering about them. What level did she take them at?

The in-person classes are great for many reasons. My daughter (she's the one who does the showing) and dogs enjoy them immensely. However, I think my daughter would benefit from some private lessons-- with someone really picky. There is such a finesse about pro handlers/OH who have been doing it a long time!


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Anele said:


> Another question.... do you have a way you start your down and back with your dog or when you are about to go around the ring? I've observed a handler be very methodical with this, in that she takes a few slow steps and then picks up speed and then slows down-- almost as though there are a specific number of steps she takes that are slow. Obviously everyone changes their speed, but it doesn't look as methodical. Or another handler who shows her dog an open (empty) hand before they get going so her dog won't be looking at her while they move.


For going around the ring you have 2 things you need to get right...

Know how much space you need in front of you so your dog isn't chasing the dog in front of him (and running up the dog's butt). I let people get at least 10 feet ahead before I begin moving my dog. 

And then don't take off running. You want your dog to start off trotting and flowing forward on a loose lead before you move out _with _your dog. If you _have _to give a tug on the leash to get a dog to trot, you kinda want to do that in the first couple steps... You generally can kinda feel when the dog is moving out right and you can move out a little (not too fast though - you go as fast as you _should _with your dog and yeah I know that's vague)...

Down and back I go back either next to the judge or slightly behind to give my guy an extra 1-2 steps to start with me pushing the leash out to "give him his head' to move out on his own. And most of the time if you do that, your dog will start out trotting. The more abrupt or rushed the start, the more likely you'll mess your dog up and he might start out pacing, so you don't want to go zooming out there like a wild woman and give the judge too much a view of your dog pacing... 

To add to this, have noticed that some of the young dogs who are always in a huge rush and dragging their handlers behind them are the dogs who either have pacing issues or "proud tails". 

"Proud tails" = another reason to really make sure you get lots of space between you and the dog in front of you. It's not the same thing as gay tails since the dog doesn't carry his tail high all the time, just when he's hyped up. 

Other thing is down and back, center your dog on the mat + look ahead at a target at the opposite end of the ring and coming back the judge is your target. Main thing is you don't want to be weaving or stepping into your dog or pulling him sideways...


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## Ljilly28 (Jan 22, 2008)

My puppies learn to catch first popcorn ( light so no flinching if they get hit lol) and then string cheese right away at 12 weeks on . This is gross, butI teach them to catch from mouth too ,so they look at my face instead of my hands .

I teach older puppies to anchor their back feet, and move their front ones in response to social pressure( leaning) with a clicker and treats once they know stand-stay. 

They learn "LOOK" to look at bait without moving ,and FLIP for the turn on the down and back.

I work with babies from 8 weeks on stacking ,and fun lead games. Sometimes I put treats on chair to mark a straight line to practice down/back if I dont have someone to play the judge . It gets them looking in front of themselves instead in heel position,which they are also learning in a different context. 

I have a good run on finishing them from puppy class working with my handling team. Hiphop even got major at his first show right at 6 months and his second major at his second show on Tarheel circuit the next weekend , and was finished really fast. There is a really nice opportunity in 6-9 puppy class if your pup is mature and social, and shows like a little professional. Some judges absolutey love to put up a puppy who exudes confidence and is really trained.

I work with pups every morning before the day starts 5 days a week, and break it up playing tug and ball. If the pup has shining eyes and waggy reaction, I do more. If the pup doesnt enjoy any step or love being out and about, I dont show him as a puppy.


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## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Kate and Jill, thank you both so much. Your knowledge is incredible! I have passed on everything you both said to my daughter.


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## Pomnaomi (Dec 9, 2012)

Do you do any screenings on clearances before you show your puppies? After some disappointments, I am on a wait-list for a new girl puppy and start to going back to shows. I’ll hire a handler. I want to make sure I take right steps to finish the puppy. Rebecca finished my first Golden for me. She had made my childhood dream come true. 
Now, I want to finish the girl so I can start my line with healthy puppy. 


Thank you!


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Talk to Rebecca - she should be able to advise you on this if she's going to handle for you again.


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