# How do I get my pup to start liking guns



## Looni2ns (Mar 26, 2010)

LOL. That'll be interesting.  Duck season, right?


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## Remington33 (Mar 27, 2012)

Oops dam auto correct on my iPhone lol sorry


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## FeatherRiverSam (Aug 7, 2009)

I started out small and worked my way up. I started out with a 22 shot gun and made it a very positive experience. I was lucky as my first golden was a retrieving maniac and very food orientated. So every time she heard a shot it meant really good things were going to happen either a ball or dummy or a very high value treat. As she got more comfortable I focused more on the retrieve and finally reached the point when ever she heard the shot she knew there was something to retrieve and lots of praise waiting for her when she returned with the object.

From there I brought out the twenty and then the twelve gauge. Working the exact same way. I never had a problem. And any time I picked up the gun I had one very happy dog.

I'll never forget pheasant hunting with my oldest brother and his two setters. It was our first time out together with these dogs. We were at a club so there was a lot of activity going on around us. We let all three dogs loose, my golden and his two setters, in the field. The very first shot from an adjacent field and one of his dogs took off like a rocket...right back to and into the bed of his pick-up truck. I found out he'd never shot over either of his dogs...and he paid the price.

Good luck...I'm far from an expert but this method sure worked for me.

Pete


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## Radarsdad (Apr 18, 2011)

Puppies I make loud noises at feeding time and sweeten the food bowl a little bit with something they really like. Bang cabinet doors,pots and pans anything that makes loud noise. Make the noise, let them eat a second make the noise again. Later I use a blank pistol with a low noise blank (cap pistol would also work). Blend that in with a retrieve and distance then slowly work up on the noise level. Once they make the connection with the retrieve and the gun it's pretty much downhill from there with birds in mix as much as possible.


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## Swampcollie (Sep 6, 2007)

Here is a clip on repairing gun shyness. Since you're just starting out you should be able to progress more quickly, but the process is basically the same.



Repairing Gun Shyness 

Dogs are not gun shy out of the box, it is a man made problem. Once the issue has been created, correcting the problem usually requires months of training. Most often someone followed some old wives tales and has banged on pots and pans, or shot a cap gun near the pup at mealtime when it's eating dinner, in some foolish attempt to de-sensitize it to loud noises. This practice causes more problems than it solves. In reality, it scares the living daylights out of the pup. These loud noises appear out of the blue for no apparent reason to the pup and it's very unsettling. 

The key to correcting the problem is developing a strong retrieving desire in the dog. You need to find and bring out the little Retrieving Maniac in your dog. You then need to develop the picture in the dog’s mind that retrieving and guns go together and that that loud noise is a good thing. 

To get started you will need some canvas training bumpers (dummies) and a helper. The dog and handler (you) work from the same spot and the helper does the throwing. Have the helper yell “hey hey” or blow a duck call to get the pup's attention. The helper should be watching the dogs' eyes to make sure the dog is looking at him. When the pup is looking out at the helper, he should throw the bumper. When the bumper hits the ground send the dog to retrieve it. Don’t try to steady the dog at this point in training you want the dog to GO. 

The helper should gradually move further and further out as the training days pass. You are working to build up the dog’s confidence and enthusiasm. Work on an athletic field or somewhere with short grass or cover, you want the dog to see where the bumper is at all times. These should be easy gimme type marks. You want the dog to be able to see the bumper and drive hard all the way to it. 

When the dog’s working distance is stretched out sufficiently and making retrieves at distances of around 75 to 80 yards, it's time to add a primer pistol to the routine. Have the helper throw and shoot the gun when the bumper is at the top of the arc. The helper should use their body to shield the sound of the gun from the dog. If the pup has no reaction to the shot, and makes the retrieve, you're on your way back to having a gun dog. 

Work with the pup at this distance for a few days and then gradually, over a couple weeks, move the helper closer to the dog. If the pup shows some signs of uneasiness back the gun off a bit. When the confidence is back move the gun a bit closer. When the helper is working at about 15 to 20 yards away with no adverse reaction from the pup, it's time to repeat the process (back out at 75 yards) with a .22 blank pistol. The process is repeated several times, each time working with a larger (louder) gun, until you can shoot the 12Ga in reasonable proximity to the pup. As you progress add a second helper to add variation to the sound. Add a frozen bird once in a while to keep the dogs interest. In time you should be able to shoot fliers with live ammo in the field. 

ALWAYS have a helper do the shooting and NEVER point any gun toward the dog. The acoustic pressure of muzzle blast from a gun is extremely loud and painful for the dog if they're in a direct line with it. 

The last step in this process is shooting near the dog. You will need at least two helpers to make this work well. Position the dog next to you on your left, position the gunner with live ammo on your right, a few inches forward of you to make certain the acoustic blast cone of the gun is forward of the dog. The remaining helper (bird thrower) should be to the right of the gunner about 5 yards, and about 15 to 20 yards down range. The helper should have a live flight conditioned duck or hen pheasant for this exercise. I like ducks because they tend to be a bit louder and will help to focus the dog’s attention. 

When you have the dog in position, and the gunner is ready, have the thrower get the dog’s attention and throw the duck into the air going right to left from your perspective. The gunner should let the bird get out to about 30 yards or so and drop the bird. Send the dog as soon as the bird hits the ground. Most retrievers will go bonkers over a flier shot right under their noses so if the dog wants to go early, let it go as soon as the bird is shot. (if your gunner is a little suspect, have the thrower ready as a back-up gunner). Remember, we are not trying to steady the dog at this time, we are trying to get over sensitivity to the gun. 

The whole process is to teach the dog that with the sound of the shot, there is something to retrieve, i.e. FUN.

This entire process will take from three to six months to complete depending upon how severe a shyness problem has been created. Don’t push too fast.

If you’re introducing a new pup to the gun, the process is the same, but you should be able to move much more quickly as you don’t have to wait for the dog to overcome fears.


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