# What do you do when your dogs fight?



## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

Occasionally my boys will get into little tiffs over high value items. We feed them on separate sides of the room, give them high value items (like knuckle bones) on opposite sides of the room. They are both good at respecting each other's space. On rare occasions they'll go after each other's "prize" (i.e. an item that I didn't realize was high value will spur a fight, etc). This actually just happened about 5 minutes ago. I was just wondering what the best way to handle the situation is. I always grab each by the collar (or scruff if they're not wearing collars) and hold them out as far away from each other as possible until they stop lashing out at each other. During this I kinda get my mean mama face on and usually yell "Boys that's enough" and "Settle Down". Then I pick up the item and put it away. If one of them has the item in their mouth I ask for it (and reluctantly they'll give it up). That's always the end of it. I'm not sure if yelling is counter productive or not. I want them to know that it is NOT okay for them to be bratty like this. I know there are going to be these rare fights so I want to make sure I handle them the right way.


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## Alaska7133 (May 26, 2011)

I had one last night. Hunter the big guy went after little Lucy. I was dishing up food and we had run out of dry kibble, so I was dishing up canned food, which was making them crazy for the smell. All 3 were gathered around me and the bowls were on the counter. Hunter lunged for Lucy and growled/snarled at her. I turned and grabbed his muzzle and told him firmly NO. I held his muzzle until he relaxed. I continued to watch out of the corner of my eye. Hunter can be a bit over the top on controlling things. He will take toys to his bed and he doesn't even pay with toys. But once that toy is in his bed, no other dogs better come near. So I walk over and take the toy and put it where I want to. Hunter is a work in progress. My other 2 are totally fine. But I do stop it physically and make sure he understands. We have incidents with other dogs in public. But a quick correction is always the best way to handle I think.


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## Roushbabe (Feb 20, 2011)

I will be subscribing to this thread to hear more experiences. I will be bringing home another puppy in my house and he will be a male as well. It will be the first time for me to own two dogs at once. 

Curious.. are both dogs intact? They are very close in age, only a few months apart. Did you get them when they both were puppies? I will be keeping both my boys intact for as long as possible if not their whole lives.


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## Alaska7133 (May 26, 2011)

In my case my girl is intact my boys are not intact. I'm not sure on the OP. Hunter is the only golden I've ever had a problem with on fighting.


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## OutWest (Oct 6, 2011)

I have some ongoing issues with Tucker re: resource guarding. He will snap and snarl at the other two if they have food and he doesn't. So I supervise their feedings carefully. We've had a couple "fights" which we broke up similarly to coarujo. However it's important to remember they are dogs, not our babies, when they get into the fight mind set. Tucker bit me once which I think scared him almost as much as me. I knew better than to put my hand into the snarl. I'll be interested to see what other people suggest. I'm of the mind that yelling is probably the safest technique, and then a time out for calming down. But keep your hands out of the way!


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## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

Both boys are intact and they're 2 months apart. I'm sure being intact adds to the feeling of "this is mine". We do have to be really careful when we separate them because it's easy to get in the middle by accident and get "bit". My boyfriend did during one of their fights (didn't leave a mark or anything) but definitely had him shaken up a bit. I watched them pretty close tonight as they were fighting and it didn't look like they were trying to actually make contact with each other. They very easily could have, they were standing less than a foot apart when they snapped, but neither dog's "attack" towards the other made contact. I think that's a good thing? 

It all gets confusing for me because Bernie is dog-reactive. He's gotten into fights with other dogs and in those situations I know not to yell because he's reacting out of fear. I always just quietly drag him away to somewhere he feels safe so he can calm down. He's never made contact with another dog, he's pretty good at defending himself without actually hurting the other dog. Because I'm so used to handling those situations I wasn't sure if yelling/correction was appropriate in this context. There's definitely no fear involved - it's all a possession issue. As they say, the grass is always greener...the other dog's toy is always more exciting - even if mom bought two of the same exact toy :doh:.

I wish that my voice was enough to end the fighting - that if I just said "ENOUGH" they'd both stop without the need for actual intervention. That's probably wishful thinking though?

Just as a side note, my SIL has two male GSP about 2.5 years apart. Both are neutered (they're 8 months and about 2.75 years old) I don't think they've ever had issues with attacks. I've never actually asked though. They seem to have more submissive personalities than my boys too.

ETA: Its funny (well not really at all, but...) my family members will see Ollz and Bernie wrestling with each other and they're going crazy growling and bodyslamming each other. They'll ask me "how do you know this is just play and they're not actually attacking each other?!" I always answer with "trust me, you'll know when they mean it."


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## CarolinaCasey (Jun 1, 2007)

Wow. It should not be to the level that someone is going to be bit. An "ehh" should be enough if someone is eyeballing the other's bone. I have had two intact males and have never had to break up a fight over anything. It is not a golden temperament to want to keep at each other when you pull them apart. 

I would remove ALL items of value. If you give high value items, it is done in a crate or each in an individual xpen or in separate rooms with baby gates. This shouldn't be allowed to happen because repetition trains. 

A hard correction is in order if they get to this level again but work on prevention. Resource guarding is not fun and will require some work. I wish you lots of luck. 


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## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

CarolinaCasey said:


> Wow. It should not be to the level that someone is going to be bit. An "ehh" should be enough if someone is eyeballing the other's bone. I have had two intact males and have never had to break up a fight over anything. It is not a golden temperament to want to keep at each other when you pull them apart.
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App



That's very interesting to hear. I thought this was pretty common. Sad to know it's not .


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## Claudia M (Aug 8, 2012)

Darcy and Rose go to class on separate days. So one gets to be fed after class while the other gets the food at the regular time. I have used this situation as a training opportunity. Keep on concentrated on you while the other is eating from the bowl. I also never allowed them to lick each other's bowl. 
DH did the same with Jack and Trooper and it never caused a problem even when one would leave food in the bowl the other knew it was not his to touch.


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## coaraujo (Nov 2, 2012)

Claudia M said:


> Darcy and Rose go to class on separate days. So one gets to be fed after class while the other gets the food at the regular time. I have used this situation as a training opportunity. Keep on concentrated on you while the other is eating from the bowl. I also never allowed them to lick each other's bowl.
> DH did the same with Jack and Trooper and it never caused a problem even when one would leave food in the bowl the other knew it was not his to touch.


Thank you, I'm going to start doing this, sounds like a great training idea. They both always lick each other's bowls when they're done. I'm going to stop letting them do this immediately. This is usually where our fighting issues come from. They both have kind of learned that when the other steps away from their bowl it means they're done and the bowl is free to be licked. Sometimes one of the boys will get distracted while eating and step away, but there will be food left in the bowl so they're not actually done. The other will go over to go over to the bowl and if we're not quick enough (99% of the time we are) to stop the dog a fight will ensue.


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

I keep a spray bottle with water in it handy, in the rare case of 'emergency' - the ONLY time I use it is if/when things get out of hand and they are at risk of getting 'serious' with each other. The 'startle' effect gives a bit of time to redirect away from each other, and give them a chance to calm themselves down. If I have to use it, I give a verbal 'warning', 'AhAh' or 'Enough' and follow quickly with the spray - they learn very quickly to 'check themselves' when they hear the 'warning' and avoid getting sprayed.


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## OutWest (Oct 6, 2011)

Claudia M said:


> Darcy and Rose go to class on separate days. So one gets to be fed after class while the other gets the food at the regular time. I have used this situation as a training opportunity. Keep on concentrated on you while the other is eating from the bowl. I also never allowed them to lick each other's bowl.
> DH did the same with Jack and Trooper and it never caused a problem even when one would leave food in the bowl the other knew it was not his to touch.


My trainers have said the same--never allow the dogs to lick each others's bowls, so we work at that. For a long time I was feeding the dogs in three rooms with closed doors. Lately I've been feeding Tucker and Tess within eyesight if each other. After putting Bella's bowl down (out of Tucker's line of sight), I return and stand next to him while he finishes. When he's done he's put into a sit and stays there until Tess is done and I can pick up her bowl. So far it's going well. I want him to really, really understand that he can't push her out of the way and eat her food. Next step will be to put Bella's bowl in the same room as Tucker's and continue to supervise...


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

I would caution against 'yelling', I know it is our first 'instinct', but there is a risk of adding 'intensity' and escalating a situation that may have resolved itself. The dogs may perceive your 'anxiety' (tone) as an indication that you are 'joining in'. A better interrupter is something that 'startles' and gets them to stop rather than potentially 'adding' to the situation. If they are already or really 'engaged' try a loud noise like dropping a pot on the floor, banging a garbage can lid, or pouring cold water over them. The hope is initially to interrupt before it starts to get serious, but if you need to, to break it up without putting yourself at risk.


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## Claudia M (Aug 8, 2012)

If you are yelling NO once the fight started and they know what NO means I do not think that they will interpret that as joining the fight. 
With Rose I started the sit/wait from early on, since it is very important for me in field work. Started with treats on the floor, treats on the paws, tricking her with saying other words such as TV, Fridge, Oven, our names etc before I said the OK as the release word. I also increased my distance from her, I would put treats on the floor and leave the room, come back and give the OK. Then instead of coming back I would call her to me having her pass the treats but not take them. That is helpful around the house as well, she will not touch anything dropped on the floor unless I say OK. 
Darcy is only in month 3 of training with us but she is catching on quickly. When she first came over she was a counter surfer; I am inclined to believe that this training with her has also taught her not to get on the counters because you were not given the OK to do so. You have to wait to be given the food that is on the counter.


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## fostermom (Sep 6, 2007)

My 4 never fight. Occasionally the oldest (lab/golden) will correct the puppy when he gets too excited when they play. None of them have resource guarding issues and I feed all 4 in the same room. I also allow them to lick each others' bowls, but not until all 4 are completely done eating.

I will say that I had a dog who would attack my lab/golden pretty randomly. When she did, she was out for blood and if we hadn't broken them up, I think she would have fought to the death. She was over the top aggressive (not a golden) and an unstable dog overall. To break them up, my husband would literally lie on top of the other dog while I got Jasmine by her hips (she's had two FHOs, so picking her up by her back legs wasn't something we could do) and back her away. Every once in a while the one my husband was lying on would slip out of under him and attack again.

A true dog fight is extremely scary! I know that once I would get Jasmine outside and away from the other dog, I would collapse from the adrenaline rush I had gotten. Jasmine never held a grudge, but the other dog did. Eventually, we had to have the other dog put to sleep because she was becoming dangerous to people, too.

If two dogs are spatting, which is what it sounds like the OP's dogs are doing, if you can grab a couch cushion or a large pillow and shove it between them, that's the safest way you can break them up without being bitten. It doesn't work for a true fight, but it does for a spat.


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## thorbreafortuna (Jun 9, 2013)

I have no experience whatsoever with this but I noticed at a play group we attended that the person in charge would bang two metal bowls together whenever it looked like play may get out of hand. Could making a loud startling noise with something they're not as used to as your voice give you enough of a distraction to "brake the moment" and to make it safer to separate them?


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