# Training Question



## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

Hi Everyone-
Our boy is 18 months old now. He joined our family in January 2020. Immediately we started socializing him by carrying him everywhere with us in a sling. This lasted about 6 weeks until quarantine hit.

In those first days, we were also able to fit in puppy kindergarten. Once covid hit, we did puppy 2 class via zoom and multiple private training sessions via zoom. Once things opened up, we took part in in-person private training sessions again. Group classes were still not happening in person and are still hard to find in our area. Our last private lesson was just a week ago and we have worked really hard.

Our boy is very sweet natured, a velcro boy, good in the house and LOVES other people and other dogs. However, he has an issue that we don’t know how to handle. When he sees another dog on a walk, he forgets the leash is attached to me and bulldozers his was over to the other dog to play. He will also do this if there is an object he wants, like a feather he sees in the grass.

This has resulted in a finger injury to me and him pulling both my husband and myself to the ground on separate occasions. It is a behavior that HAS to stop but I don’t know how to handle it.

It seems like an impulse control issue to me. At home he has to sit before he goes in or out the door. He has to sit and wait for his food before he is told he can eat it. He has to sit or down to get petted. He walks well on the leash aside from this lunging behavior. We try the nothing in life is free approach to his training but It doesn’t help this one behavior as he seems to lock eyes with whatever he wants to get to and just barges ahead to get it.

Yesterday he pulled me down to the ground again. We were walking and a little off leash dog approached. I put him in a downstay and told him to wait. He was doing well but as the little off leash dog got within a few feet he jumped up to get over to the dog, bringing me down to the ground. This is not an aggressive lunge, it is a lunge to get closer to the object he desires, in this case a dog to play with.

I am at my wit’s end with this as I don’t even want to walk him anymore. We have owned dogs for decades and never had this problem before. The last few training sessions we have worked on this but it did not help at all when we are in the situation. ANY help would be appreciated!


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## CAROLINA MOM (May 12, 2009)

Bumping up


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Obedience clubs are opening up again - suggest getting your dog in for obedience classes. Privates are not helpful considering your dog's issues. You need group classes.

There's are two reasons why.

1. Your dog will be in a class environment where he's got dogs around and will need to learn how to ignore those other dogs while learning leash manners and "calm" in excitable or stressful situations.

2. You and your spouse will learn how to handle your dog in public around people/dogs.... but in a controlled environment and with (hopefully) hands on help from the instructor.

You need to do 1-3 rounds of obedience classes while your dog continues to grow up.

The advantage of sticking to it and following through with obedience classes means down the road you can take your dogs anywhere vs being those types who leave the dog home because he has poor manners in public.

Other thing to consider is - while you are working on the obedience training and control issues.... you ABSOLUTELY cannot do dog parks, daycare, or play dates with your dog. Doing those things will just work against you right now.


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

Kenmar - I have one just like yours!
The big grin is because I was in exactly your situation and it is SOOOO much better now.
Do not despair. You can overcome impulse control problems. I will post what worked for my boy later this evening.
It involves consistent training but you can do it. It will all be good.
I'll post later


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

Megora said:


> Obedience clubs are opening up again - suggest getting your dog in for obedience classes. Privates are not helpful considering your dog's issues. You need group classes.
> 
> There's are two reasons why.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for the suggestions.
I just looked at possible in person classes and might have found one. Many in our area are still on hold or still virtual. 
We do bring our boy most places with us. It is very seldom that we leave him home. But I almost dread it now because of this one behavior. 
thanks again!


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

goldy1 said:


> Kenmar - I have one just like yours!
> The big grin is because I was in exactly your situation and it is SOOOO much better now.
> Do not despair. You can overcome impulse control problems. I will post what worked for my boy later this evening.
> It involves consistent training but you can do it. It will all be good.
> I'll post later


Thank you!!! Will look forward to hearing about what worked for you!


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## 215004 (Apr 21, 2021)

Megora, great thread as I made several unanswered phone calls this morning. I have what I call Satans #1 alpha dog here. ( a box of bandaids every week) In your opinion would you recommend 1 on 1 or still in a group setting? He’s extremely active when he first wakes up then slowly winds down. Top of my hands are filled with puppy bites and no matter what toy you give him, the hands are #1. ANY advice is appreciated!
David
P.S He’s roughly 10 weeks old


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## Bellbird (Feb 22, 2019)

Gemma (now 2.5) had impulse control issues when she was younger. When her beginners training ended and she was still pulling to get to the other dogs whenever they came close (eg heeling together), our trainer suggested we do another 6 week round of classes (free) at the same level but this time she just sat with me and watched the other dogs. She was rewarded for calm behaviour and focussing on me. Gradually she relaxed as the other dogs did their training closer and closer to her. Now she is calm and sensible around other dogs. De-sensitising worked for us.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Kenmar said:


> Thanks so much for the suggestions.
> I just looked at possible in person classes and might have found one. Many in our area are still on hold or still virtual.
> We do bring our boy most places with us. It is very seldom that we leave him home. But I almost dread it now because of this one behavior.
> thanks again!


Expect the first round of class to be tough - but if you persist, your dog will get better. And you'll have a dog you can take anywhere with pride.


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi Kenmar,
I felt like I was reading my own story! Covid was indeed a setback for puppy training! We brought baby Blaze home in November 2020 and completed puppy class & Family Dog 1 when everything shut down. Since he was the youngest in Family Dog 1, he did very well! When he stays engaged, he is excellent. But on walks, I couldn't relax at all because anything could trigger that sudden pull. Could be as sudden and simple as a gust of wind blowing a paper. I totally understand because even though (like a bodyguard) I was constantly scanning the area for potential triggers, I was also trying to keep him in my eye so we would be engaged in walking together, with well-timed rewards for all the usual good behaviors.
Like you I had trained numerous dogs over my lifetime to walk on leash. Never experienced these challenges. I badgered my trainers while everything was still shut down so that upon re-opening, I got into the first classes. And as this was progressing, fwd 2 steps/back 1, I had people (friends,acquaintances - all dog people) make suggestions due to Blaze was getting bigger and stronger every week. People were afraid for me. Heck, I was beginning to get afraid for me! But like you, I had always been successful training large dogs so I guess that was why I thought it would click with him "any day now".
So our dog groomer (LOVE her) recommended her trainer to me, even though they are over 1 hour away from where I live.

I went for a consultation and the rest is history.
She said I needed a "tool" because of his strength and suggested the Halti Head Collar. I admit I was skeptical. I took 3 private lessons to learn how to use it correctly and slowly acclimate Blaze to accepting and wearing the Halti Head Collar. Simultaneous to that, I started a group class there which was fantastic. Like Megora mentioned in her post, group classes are what you need most. A private or 2 to get through something specific is fine, but groups of new people/new dogs in close proximity is the safe constructive environment with a trainer is best. Its also very motivational to have others all working toward a common goal. Having "homework" each week is what keeps me on track with training.

One more thing. Having a SOLID sit/stay - which it sounds like you do - is helpful. Sit being the default behavior is SO helpful so you give him something TO do to replace the behavior not to do.

I used to walk in the door and he would jump at me with such excitement while pulling things out of my arms, mail flying all over, etc. Now he sits on his cot like a gentleman when I come inside, waits while I put my bags down on the table, and walk to his cookie jar and bring him his treat. While I say in a soothing tone "good boy, good wait". My husband has witnessed him watching me through the window while I walk up to the door, and race over to his cot so he can be sitting politely when I open the door.

I couldn't love him more. You will feel so wonderful when you have conquered this problem down the road and look back.
Do not be discouraged. Get into a good group class, consider using a "tool" (the Easy Walk harness is another option), and practice.


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

goldy1 said:


> Hi Kenmar,
> I felt like I was reading my own story! Covid was indeed a setback for puppy training! We brought baby Blaze home in November 2020 and completed puppy class & Family Dog 1 when everything shut down. Since he was the youngest in Family Dog 1, he did very well! When he stays engaged, he is excellent. But on walks, I couldn't relax at all because anything could trigger that sudden pull. Could be as sudden and simple as a gust of wind blowing a paper. I totally understand because even though (like a bodyguard) I was constantly scanning the area for potential triggers, I was also trying to keep him in my eye so we would be engaged in walking together, with well-timed rewards for all the usual good behaviors.
> Like you I had trained numerous dogs over my lifetime to walk on leash. Never experienced these challenges. I badgered my trainers while everything was still shut down so that upon re-opening, I got into the first classes. And as this was progressing, fwd 2 steps/back 1, I had people (friends,acquaintances - all dog people) make suggestions due to Blaze was getting bigger and stronger every week. People were afraid for me. Heck, I was beginning to get afraid for me! But like you, I had always been successful training large dogs so I guess that was why I thought it would click with him "any day now".
> So our dog groomer (LOVE her) recommended her trainer to me, even though they are over 1 hour away from where I live.
> ...


Wow...thank you so much for this!

It does sound like exactly the same issue, even down to things blowing in the wind!!

We actually have a halti that I haven’t used yet with him-I will get that out and start acclimating him to it tomorrow. It will hopefully prevent me from ending up on the ground again until I can get into a class.

i really appreciate this help. It makes me feel there is hope😊


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

Bellbird said:


> Gemma (now 2.5) had impulse control issues when she was younger. When her beginners training ended and she was still pulling to get to the other dogs whenever they came close (eg heeling together), our trainer suggested we do another 6 week round of classes (free) at the same level but this time she just sat with me and watched the other dogs. She was rewarded for calm behaviour and focussing on me. Gradually she relaxed as the other dogs did their training closer and closer to her. Now she is calm and sensible around other dogs. De-sensitising worked for us.


What a great idea-thanks!


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

Kenmar - you have every reason to be hopeful !
This is a very clear step-by-step video to watch *before* you begin halti head collar training





Some things I learned in my private lessons : You should spend *a week (at least) doing the acclimatizing steps* (getting him to accept, let you put it on and wear it) before you do the first walk. I cannot stress the benefits of this enough. The Halti is a new "feel" and could put him over threshold just having it on! if you try walking him in it too soon. The first days I did not even attempt to clip it on. I hand fed him his kibble breakfast and dinner through the halti. So basically I didn't PUT the halti over his nose. I held the kibble i my hand, with my other hand I held the halti nose portion open "over" the kibble in my hand, and Blaze inserted his nose/mouth through it in order to eat the food. When this was done with enthusiasm by him, I gave him treats the way the girl in the video shows (steps 1 & 2). Then toward the end of week 1, was the first I clipped it on. And I merely clipped it on, rewarded him with an extra yummy treat while it was clipped on him, and within a minute, took it off.
*Halti equals food, treats, rewards*. Soon you will graduate to adding the leash and short walks with intermittent treats for nice walking but not *at least* until week 2 or 3. The process of "getting used to wearing the halti" sets you up for success using it. Remember it is a training tool and in order for it to help you train him, he has to be comfortable with it. 

I would not have taken this much time with this prelim process had it not been for the private lessons with the trainer. I watched a ton of videos and they mostly don't stress this enough. Notice the special 2 ended Halti *leash* shown in this video. I got that too. Although I don't need it anymore, it was very helpful in the early training walks because you can use the regular collar end or the halti collar end of the leash - depending on where you need it.

My friend who has horses made me feel better when I decided to go the Halti Head Collar route ( when I was still trying to train him the traditional way without a "tool"). She said "you don't think I could train my 1,000 lb horses without a tool !". For some reason that penetrated and made sense to me.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Part of good dog training is recognizing what doesn't work and figuring out what does.


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi Kenmar,
I *don't ever* use the halti head collar with a long leash. This is very dangerous so be sure never to do it.

But I like to take trail walks using a long leash. I thought of one more thing that works for me.
For those walks, a close-fitting garden glove works great for leash gripping (sudden pulls) an no rope burn! My preferred gloves are the Atlas 360 Nitrile Garden Gloves that fut like a second skin. You will forget you are wearing them and therefore can dispense small treats without taking them off. Or any close-fitting garden glove like the one pictured which I think I picked up at Home Depot.
As you train more and more with the Halti, the good walking behavior will transfer to all walks but the sudden squirrel or chipmunk is still a risk for me. So the gloves save my hands and give me great grip and control.
I also like the Leashboss leash with a padded grip handle.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

goldy1 said:


> Some things I learned in my private lessons : You should spend *a week (at least) doing the acclimatizing steps* (getting him to accept, let you put it on and wear it) before you do the first walk.


Maybe not the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard but it's near the top.

Step one; Teach your dog basic obedience, including walking at heel.

Step two; Don't take advice from anyone with a fanny pack full of treats.


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

SRW said:


> Maybe not the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard but it's near the top.
> 
> Step one; Teach your dog basic obedience, including walking at heel.
> 
> Step two; Don't take advice from anyone with a fanny pack full of treats.


I am sort of confused with this reply.
I am the original poster. My dog knows basic obedience. We have worked very, very hard since the day we brought our boy home. 

The problem I explained in my original post seems to be an impulse control issue. He will be heeling and something catches his eye...another dog, a plastic bag, could be anything. At that point his sole focus is the object he wants and will quite literally pull you over to get at it. Sometimes this doesn’t happen at all on a walk. You never know when it will happen. 

I realize this is a training issue, which is why I am asking if people have suggestions on how to handle it. I am not a training expert, just an owner who has worked their tail off to have a well behaved dog.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Kenmar said:


> I realize this is a training issue, which is why I am asking if people have suggestions on how to handle it. I am not a training expert, just an owner who has worked their tail off to have a well behaved dog.


Good for you and your pup. I wish more people would put forth the effort to actually train their dog rather than hiring a "pro" that, more often than not, is better at taking money than training dogs.

Your dog knows the concept of heeling, that's great. .
Now you have to introduce distractions in training. With many aspects of training you have to create a situations that tempt a dog to misbehave in order to correct and teach. Start with simple distractions and progress to larger ones. Try to ensure plenty of success. Maybe start by placing a tempting object near your path while your dog watches, then heel past it. Teach first, use a lead. If he pulls toward it, no no, heel and tug the lead. Not a big deal, no correction, just teaching. When he is successful introduce more tempting objects, surprises, multiple distractions, etc. Correct only after teaching thoroughly. If he struggles, simplify.
Make him feel successful and he will want to learn.

I am sure you know, "SIT" is the first command a foundational that a dog must know. SIT means sit no matter what and until released. 
If your dog pulls on lead and you say SIT, he should sit. If not you need to work on that. It is a command that may safe his life someday if he knows it.
Teaching sit to whistle is very beneficial as well.


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## Kenmar (Apr 28, 2018)

SRW said:


> Good for you and your pup. I wish more people would put forth the effort to actually train their dog rather than hiring a "pro" that, more often than not, is better at taking money than training dogs.
> 
> Your dog knows the concept of heeling, that's great. .
> Now you have to introduce distractions in training. With many aspects of training you have to create a situations that tempt a dog to misbehave in order to correct and teach. Start with simple distractions and progress to larger ones. Try to ensure plenty of success. Maybe start by placing a tempting object near your path while your dog watches, then heel past it. Teach first, use a lead. If he pulls toward it, no no, heel and tug the lead. Not a big deal, no correction, just teaching. When he is successful introduce more tempting objects, surprises, multiple distractions, etc. Correct only after teaching thoroughly. If he struggles, simplify.
> ...


When you say “correction”, what type of collar are you using? 
Yes, he has a firm sit and down. In 99.9% of situations he will do this immediately. But in the instances I am referring to he gets into a zone and blocks everything out aside from the object of his desire.

i will work on planting distractions for him.

thanks_


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Kenmar said:


> When you say “correction”, what type of collar are you using?


A "correction" is any form of reprimand, could be verbal or physical. You need to read your dog closely. People tend to think physical corrections from e collars, heeling sticks, etc are the most severe but that is not always the case. For some dogs a verbal reprimand can be much more severe than a swat with a heeling stick of a nick from an e collar.

You really need to read your dog closely any time you are teaching/training (which means anytime he is with you).
If a dog has an extreme reaction to a correction it may indicate confusion, not knowing what he has done wrong. There needs to be a clear path to success and he needs to know what it is.

I use a slip lead, usually rope or leather. If your dog likes to chew on the lead a chain can discourage that.

Remember that training is ongoing and no matter how good your pup is, he will test you occasionally.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

If no one else has suggested a pinch collar let me be the first to do so.


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## ArkansasGold (Dec 7, 2017)

I second the pinch collar.


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

Kenmar,
This article from The Bark might have some useful information. It's a work in progress, right? 









How to Calm an Overexcited Dog | Overexcitement in Dogs


If your dog loses their mind over anything from a squirrel in the backyard to a new houseguest, you need this advice.




thebark.com


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