# Desensitizing vs. Creating Positive Associations



## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Here is another topic I've been pondering.

What's the difference between desensitizing a dog to situations, such as being handled, vs. helping the dog learn to enjoy the handling itself via making a positive association?

In BOTH cases, let's assume only positive training is being done. 

For example, if my dog doesn't enjoy being pet, but I pet my dog, and then give him a treat, what am I doing? Am I simply desensitizing (getting him used to/tolerating/ignoring) to the sensation of being pet, or am I actually helping him enjoy being pet?


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## SwimDog (Sep 28, 2014)

"It depends"

Here's a good set of short articles - scroll down to the "Learning Theory 101"
Reactive Champion: Best Of

Desensitization - gradual exposure at a level the learner can handle ("level" and "handle" being established by the learner, facilitator and situation, etc). Fewer neuron connections over time. Less responsive to certain stimuli. 

Sensitization - learner becomes -more- responsive to the stimuli (this is my fear in a lot of the situations that get posted on here with puppies - the puppies COULD get better or they could get a lot, lot worse if we are not careful). Many, many, many more neurons/connections are formed making the learner extremely responsive to certain stimuli.

Desensitization is often paired with counter- conditioning - like you described (kind of) - creating positive associations. 

We can create good associations ("classical conditioning" - read thorugh that section on the above link). It is different to create good associations with things that are new/neutral and changing associations that aren't so great.

You can do desensitization without classical conditioning.

In your example - it depends on how unpleasnt the dog find the petting and how much the dog likes the reward. For many dogs who are neutral (vs dislike) the petting we can do like you described if we have rewards the dog likes. For some dogs (nervous or in pain) we have to start smaller. tiny reach. food. reach a little more. food. etc. The more the dog likes the reward, the faster the process will go.


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## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Swim Dog, that was a great link. So much to learn!

One question about what you said re:connections-- this is really interesting to me-- in humans, I thought we were always trying to foster neuron connections, in they would enable us to be better learners.

What sorts of situations do you see with puppies becoming responsive in a way that would be detrimental? (I want to check that I haven't messed up!)

I will have to continue studying the articles. Thank you!


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## SwimDog (Sep 28, 2014)

Lots of ways - some that only matter to certain households and some that we don't want in any household.

- We do not want a dog to become aroused (especially to the point of reactivity around other dogs).
- We want some response around other people - most golden owners [and other stereotypically happy breeds!] accidently train their dogs to become super aroused around other people - especially strangers at the door.
- We don't want immediate responses to things like cars backfiring or loud noises. 
- We don't want puppies to be super sensitive about handling/grooming/touching.
- Usually we don't want dogs chasing wildlife, bikes, etc. But some individuals or breeds o r owners we want some of this (lure coursing, herding comes out of chase - we want herding livestock but not people, etc).


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## Anele (Dec 12, 2014)

Ah, yes-- I understand what you mean now, Swim Dog. 

So, for example, if a puppy is already showing some fear of loud noises and we flood them with it (trying to help), then obviously that will do damage. Or, if we try to it with a positive association (like food) but simply move too fast out of the dog's comfort zone, then again, damage will be done.

Is that right?

RE: chasing wildlife. I have wondered about this for awhile. I have trouble getting my dog to play in the way I want (often he will find jumping and biting my clothes more fun than the toy) so I considered getting one of those tug toys made of animal skin, but I'm afraid it will put his prey drive into high gear and I won't be able to turn it off!


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## SwimDog (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes - like your fear example. That's why on here I caution people to get professional help with nervous dogs - there's so much of a risk to make it worse and I haven't found a good way to convey that yet in writing or even in person. 

Wildlife - I have not found a correlation with playing tug and/or using animal hide tugs. All of the dogs I personally know who can be called away from wildlife do play a lot of tug, sometimes with animal hide tugs. The things that would sensitize a pet to chasing wildlife would be - practicing that behavior (squirrels and birds in the backyard) - probably watching wildlife out windows for periods of time (probably not occasional glances 

And while I don't think we have any data on that or the following - more my opinion that I believe we're more likely to see some of that in dogs who chase laser pointing. I don't think playing with flirt poles relates - but it depends on how you do it maybe?


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## Themmen (Mar 5, 2015)

My girl gets scared on walks when she hears another dog bark. She tries to turn around and run the other way. What I have been doing is just standing in one spot and getting her to come near me and sit. I will wait as long as it takes for her to work things out and assess and as soon as she moves forward I treat her. Is that a good strategy?


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## SwimDog (Sep 28, 2014)

Themmen said:


> My girl gets scared on walks when she hears another dog bark. She tries to turn around and run the other way. What I have been doing is just standing in one spot and getting her to come near me and sit. I will wait as long as it takes for her to work things out and assess and as soon as she moves forward I treat her. Is that a good strategy?


There are more efficient things - offering super delicious things like canned dog food, steak, etc after hearing a bark. And moving further away when she is nervous. Do training with --quiet-- computer generated barks, pairing those with delicious snacks.


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## DJdogman (Apr 23, 2013)

I've had first hand experience at doing things the wrong way and making them worse. Our Charlie was always anxious, but became worse and worse with other dogs while out on walks. I persevered for months thinking he'd "just get used to it". Ultimately I made it a lot worse, especially because I became almost as nervous as him with the whole situation! 

7 months and 2 trainers later and we're finally getting somewhere. I really like the information in those links you provided SwimDog, thanks! (Particularly the parts about accepting the dog as he is and managing the behaviour, rather than expecting a perfect cure).


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