# Socializing a Golden whose socialization I neglected as a puppy....



## Leslie B (Mar 17, 2011)

Well, you have taken the first step and admitted that you have a problem and that it is your own making. You are light years ahead of most folks so good for you but it will still take quite a bit of work at this stage. Socialization of a puppy is quite easy since they naturally want to go and see everyone and meet everyone. Now your young dog has learned to be fearful and it is quite the opposite.

You are going to have to dedicate time to this task. There is no short cuts, no easy fix, nothing you can buy on line to make it go away. Time that you spend working on the problem will solve it so set aside 30 minutes a day, every day, for the next 30 days to work on this problem. NO CHEATING.

Take him for lots of car rides and have it be lots of fun. Toss treats to him when you get in and out of the car at home and at the park. 

Start out at a park that is not busy and has fewer people. Park far away from other cars so your boy has a clear view of the world. If he gets out with his tail between his legs, practice getting in and out of the car with treats before you begin your walk. So what if you look like a goof with your dog getting in and out of your car 10 times.  Your job is to get your boyfocused on you and the treats!!

Get some people that do not know your boy to go for walks with you at the park. Have them walk with you without talking or looking directly at your boy. As he warms up the friend can give him some treats. Do not try to give treats while he is nervous or fearful. Get at least one new person a week to walk with you either at home or at the park. Your dog has to see you be comfortable with new people for him to be comfortable with new people.

Take a beginner obedience class at your local obedience club. The other dogs and other handlers will help to give him cues as to how to behave around others. Avoid the classes at Petsmart or Petco as the instructors sometimes are not the best and the dogs have to get thru the entire store in order to get to the class. This would be a lot to ask of your boy.

Do your homework from the obedience class. Work on Sit, Here, Kennel, etc. All these obedience commands can give a dog confidence.

Good Luck


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## Finn's Fan (Dec 22, 2007)

I would add go sit at parks, outside Home Depot or other stores, at sidewalk cafes and make a little sign that says "Dog in training. Please don't touch or speak to him" so you avoid enforcing the fear. Stay long enough (30+ minutes) that he gets bored because bored means he's no long frightened. Do this often. Sit on your front lawn if you've got one, say hi to folks walking by, but again, don't let them talk to or touch your dog. I adopted a 3+ year--old rescue dog who hadn't ever been on grass or exposed to anything. Desensitizing him to his fears, and they were legion, took several months, but it was well worth it.


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Having a 'people' fearful dog I will share what has worked well for me. 
I started out just people 'watching' with my dog at a distance where there was little chance of direct encounters with strangers. Every time we saw a person, I fed him high value treats, in time, as soon as he saw a person, he would look to me, and receive a treat or two. Over time we were able to decrease the distance, and he was able remain unafraid when people walked past across the street, then passing on the same sidewalk. 

I did a lot of 'set ups' with friends and family, (firstly at my home and my yard where he felt safe) people who would follow instructions on what I wanted them to do when I was working with my dog. I requested that they not attempt to approach him, make eye contact, reach for or speak to my dog, until I said it was okay. When they arrived at my home I would ask them to take a seat, and provide them with treats to give my dog when he was ready, able to take them. I would bring my dog into the room on leash, my first goal was to help him feel safe just being in the room with the 'strangers', so all I did was feed him some high value treats for a couple of minutes, then we would leave, let him take a break in another room, and repeat, once he had a chance to relax. Once was able to enter the room with 'strangers' in it and remain at ease with it, then we slowly worked on approaching the stranger, I would lay a trail of treats across the floor leading to where the person was sitting, and allow my dog to choose to eat them at his own pace. Once he was approaching the person, the person would hold a treat out in the palm of their hand for him to take, without making eye contact, without reaching for him, or talking to him, allowing him to take the treat, then I would encourage my dog away from the person and repeating the process, until my dog was easily, willingly taking treats from them. From there we moved to talking to him, and then petting /touching him on the underside of his neck. The goal was simply to create a positive association with strangers, by giving my dog the freedom to choose to approach or to move away if he felt unsafe, and having the person feed the treats once my dog was able to approach, he soon made the association I wanted him to understand - strangers = good things happening for him with a variety of different people. Then we worked with the strangers in different body positions, standing up, crouching down, walking towards him at an angle (not 'head -on') in other locations in the house and out in the yard - these were environments where my dog felt safe. Once he was doing well in those locations, then we set about working in different environments, parks, on the street, with 'familiar' strangers to start with, to help him build a positive association with 'strangers' in the 'real world', then gradually progressing to 'unfamiliar' strangers that he showed a willingness to meet.
It has taken some time, patience, practice and reward, but it has been well worth the effort for his sake.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Do you have another dog? Or know anyone with a dog who might not mind doing some weekend outings with you (until you bring home a second dog sometime down the road). Dogs are very monkey see monkey do and pick up social cues from their buddies. 

I had a golden with elbow dysplasia and pano who could not be socialized or in classes (the dumb thing was our instructor would not allow any dogs in the class who were not physically sound - she later on amended this rule to allow us to bring him with and let him hang out on the side while our other dog was in training). And then going to class every week and spending 2-3 hours with other people and dogs in a very controlled situation (where people are NOT coming up and invading your space) - helped him gain confidence and calm in places like that. To the point that we easily got his CD when he was 4. 

Oh by the way - he was a very outgoing puppy and well-socialized until 5-8 months old. Between 8 months old and 15 months old, he could not be taken out anywhere except the vet where they pulled his legs around and pinched them quite a bit.... 

This dog leaned on our other golden who was very outgoing and fearless. So he would go up and get people touching him.... and our shy guy would go up and check the people out and allow them to touch him. So literally, our other dog was his "guide dog". 

Big rule by the way with our dog was he had to make the first move. People had to wait for him to go up to them and sniff their hands first before he'd allow them to touch him. Basically too many people see golden retrievers and are hands out, rushing in, and grabbing/leaning over the dog. It's bad manners on their part - and an assumption that every dog is friendly. So you will have to control any interaction with people. Making sure you are right between them and explaining how to visit - is the key.

This dog was always reserved through his life - and you might find this is a "stuck behavior" with your dog. But you can at least get him so he's not fearful or anxious. 

My dog went to company picnics with me pretty much most of his life - and people were always astounded at how calm and well-mannered he was. Some of that was him refusing to eat anything in public... but a lot of it was just him being very socialized all his life and calm in situations where he knew what to expect from people. 

Beyond that too - this dog was a perfect dog around children - anywhere and everywhere. Early on though - he even did not feel comfortable about kids at all. 

It was a huge difference from the time between 8 months and about 3 years (it can take that long to get a dog past fears) when everyone who met him asked if he was a rescue dog who had abused by people.


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## goodog (May 6, 2013)

*Need help -- 2 year old girl-socialization issues*

Question on Socialization. 
A couple Ive met thru my blog -very nice--own a 2-year-old girl. Lovely pup. 
She is bugged not so much by the car but events hence she is car shy. IE-a real pain to get in the car
They take her places, on holiday, she plays with other dogs well. They hike with a small group of goldens frequently. 
However, she puts on the brakes when they try to get her in the car. Not always but too often.
NO history of car problems. 
I started a dialogue with them. 
Today--I got "she is "just weird" about certain things." 

My guess is a *socialization problem exists. 
We are way past puppy. But..........
Any thoughts on how to get her better socialized? Remediation of the problem??
**Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.*

*@GoldretrieverUS on Twitter "Golden Retriever Channel" 
*


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## ceegee (Mar 26, 2015)

goodog said:


> Question on Socialization.
> A couple Ive met thru my blog -very nice--own a 2-year-old girl. Lovely pup.
> She is bugged not so much by the car but events hence she is car shy. IE-a real pain to get in the car
> They take her places, on holiday, she plays with other dogs well. They hike with a small group of goldens frequently.
> ...



Can you expand on your comment "bugged not so much by the car but by events"? What events? Why do you think it's the "events" she doesn't like, rather than the car? And what do you mean about "no history of car problems"? Refusing to get in the car is a "car problem" ...


Some dogs just don't like riding in cars (they don't like the sensation), and some get car-sick. Are you sure it's not just one of these things, if the dog is ok once she gets to her destination? Why do you think it's a socialization problem instead?


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