# Newly adopted Golden Rescue. 2 1/2 yr old male. Couple issues, help please.



## cwag (Apr 25, 2017)

Its really hard to live without out once you've had a Golden. If you could find a behaviorist or good trainer it might be helpful to have a few sessions at home with him. If he's comfortable with being in the crate he may feel more secure in there when you have to leave. Since you can monitor him I would reintroduce a crate as his safe place for naps and maybe feed him in there for a few weeks. He wouldn't have to be in there at night but you could leave it open as an option. We kept a chill mat in Rukie's crate in the bedroom and he would sleep on our bed and move into the crate when he got hot at night. Do you use a potty word? We say better hurry or do your business. Its a little gross but could you swipe up a little pee onto a paper towel and then place that in your back yard, taking him there when you think he really needs to go and use the potty word. Then reward him for going in your yard.


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## pawsnpaca (Nov 11, 2014)

Congratulations on your new family member! What you are describing is more likely to be “reactivity” than actual aggression (although they are not mutually exclusive - reactive dogs _can_ still be agressive). My boy Guinness was dog reactive and would growl, bark, lunge at other dogs, but if he was actually allowed to interact with them (and the other dog didn’t react aggressively back) the worst he was likely to do is try to mount/hump them. Still not a good thing… but my point is that despite the aggressive display, he wasn’t really a bite risk. He only got into one true fight with another dog (with a female Rottweiler who was the instigator) and even that fight was a lot of spit and noise… neither of them drew blood. I’ll also note that my boy lived with other dogs without issue, attended weekly agility and Rally classes (which required some management but was not a big deal), and eventually earned an Excellent Rally title (which requires off leash performances in a room full of other dogs). I have to say that when he first started displaying reactivity (he would also run our fence and “fence fight” with the dogs next door) I knew nothing about reactive dogs and tried to ”correct” the behavior punitively, and more than once lost my temper with him. I can tell you from sad experience that if your dog’s behavior is fear based, then “correcting” him for the behavior will more likely make it worse.

Bottom line, based on what you describe, I think your best bet is to bring in a skilled trainer to assess your dog and teach you the best ways to deal with the behavior based on your particular dog. Another option is to look around your area for a class for reactive dogs… it’s a common enough problem that such classes are often offered, especially by any well-funded or well-staffed shelters. A trainer should also be able to help you decide how to address the separation anxiety. Some dogs will panic if confined. Others find the crate to be a safe place and are calmer when confined. Again, a good trainer should be able to help you determine the right course of action for your dog. If the rescue group you got him from is fairly local, they may be able to help you find a good trainer.


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## CAROLINA MOM (May 12, 2009)

Very sorry for your loss of Ginger, what a gift to have her for 17 years.


Congrats on the adoption of your boy, keep in mind, he's only been with you for a few short weeks. It often takes dogs several weeks even months to adjust to a new family and environment. Some dogs fit in right away and need no adjustment period.

I agree with finding and working with a trainer. It's a shame the GR Rescue didn't work with him before they listed him available for adoption. Many of the GR Rescue Groups have certified trainers that volunteer their time and work with new intakes to resolve any behavioral problems so they are prepared for their new families.

As mentioned above, the GR Rescue Group may know of trainers they can refer you to. If you belong to any local FB Groups for your area or your local Nextdoor Group, ask for a Trainer referral. Check with your Vet Clinic too.


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## Anon-2130948gsoni (Apr 12, 2014)

If you’re familiar with clicker training at all, there’s a very good book called, “Click To Calm” by Emma Parsons that addresses multiple types of reactivity and how to slowly modify the response through counterconditioning and desensitization, which just means rewards for calm behavior and exposing the dog at a far enough distance to help ensure success, meaning no negative reaction.
How long have you had him? I used to do a lot of work with shelter and rescue dogs and we always said that 3 days, 3 weeks, and 3 months are when you start to see who the dog really is. If you haven’t had him long and he was used to being dumped out in the yard in his former home, it’s really not surprising that he would have separation anxiety. There’s also a book called “Don’t Leave Me!” (I can’t remember the author’s name right now) that I used when I was dealing with that in my Golden.

Thank you for giving this boy a loving home!


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## OscarsDad (Dec 20, 2017)

Lots of terrific advice here. I would really caution *patience *and some of the behaviors you are seeing will resolve on their own once Brody figures out that things are permanent and loving. We have two rescues. Oscar took quite some time to decide to pay attention and still occasionally lunges in a friendly way at dogs. We found getting him to sit and wait for a treat while the trucks or dogs went by helped tremendously. He thankfully no longer lunges at trucks. 

Sani peed in the house for about two months, even when we were taking her out every two hours. The vet told us that she should be able to hold it without a problem, given her labs. Turned out it was pure anxiety and since then she has never gone in the house. 

I would think that some of the clingy behavior will also get better. Not too much to add to the advice above, which is all excellent. A good trainer is always worth the time and expense. Good luck. We love rescuing and you will too.


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## ComeBackShane (Mar 20, 2021)

I agree that there is a lot of good advice that has already been shared.

Being patient with yourself and your new dog is going to be essential. Five months ago we adopted a highly reactive 2.5 year old Lab (reactive to dogs, certain noises, some people) who is strong as an ox and has a crazy intense prey drive (and we live on a game trail with no fenced yard!).

I've had two rescue Goldens, one neglected and the other abused. They were a walk in the park (literally) compared to our new dog, Scout.

It's going to take time to get your dog to where you all want to be and it's going to take a lot of work. That said, I find little in life more rewarding than helping an insecure dog find a place to let down their guard as member of our family.
You'll also find that few dogs are as intensely loyal that one that you have helped to work through their fear issues.

I find it easier to assume that every behavior that causes you concern or distress is going to need to be addressed directly. The alternative is "hope" and hope is seldom an adequate approach with a reactive dog.

In general, over stimulated dogs tend to get over stimulated much more easily than dogs that remain below their "threshold." Managing your dog's environment to reduce stimulation is important. I have an earlier post about opaque film I put up on our sliding glass doors. The film is only one measure we've taken but it is a good example of the type of things that have helped. It allows us the ability to expose him to some visual triggers in measured amounts, raising, rather then lowering, his threshold over time. 

A good trainer will know this.

If you can't afford a trainer (or if you'd rather do this yourself and you have the time/energy/patience) you are likely going to need to take a deep dive into training for reactivity yourself. Without reservation, I can recommend GrishaStewart.com as a fantastic resource for owners who are dealing with a reactive dog. You don't have to be a dog trainer to subscribe to her page and she offers access to training videos from a number of other trainers who bring slightly different perspectives to dealing with reactive dogs.

Lastly, document the problem behaviors you are trying to address. This can help you realize that something is getting worse or that it is improving (or that something new has cropped up). It is easy to feel like you're not making progress when you are.

Our wonderfully sweet and still fearful lab (who uses his crate as his "safe place") is dealing with some issues with a constantly barking neighbor dog but yesterday I realized that I hadn't heard him bark at the sound of the mail being delivered in months. We spent the summer greeting our "mailperson" (Becky - you are wonderful!) out on our porch and working through his reactivity to delivery vehicles and delivery people (somehow she always has treats for Scout - I leave the treats in the mailbox for her to give to Scout). Becky hadn't heard Scout react to the mail and she was pleased to hear he was doing so well. I also realized that just opening the front door was no longer an ordeal. Scout gladly sits and waits on his spot while I open the door, go outside and return. 

Bottom line, we've been making a lot of progress but some of the distressing behaviors (reacting to the neighbor's barking dog - white noise and well timed treats as well as a direct talk with the neighbors have helped) can obscure the important progress you are making.

Hang in there. You're on your way to one of the most loyal friends you may ever have.


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## jopalis (Feb 20, 2016)

pawsnpaca said:


> Congratulations on your new family member! What you are describing is more likely to be “reactivity” than actual aggression (although they are not mutually exclusive - reactive dogs _can_ still be agressive). My boy Guinness was dog reactive and would growl, bark, lunge at other dogs, but if he was actually allowed to interact with them (and the other dog didn’t react aggressively back) the worst he was likely to do is try to mount/hump them. Still not a good thing… but my point is that despite the aggressive display, he wasn’t really a bite risk. He only got into one true fight with another dog (with a female Rottweiler who was the instigator) and even that fight was a lot of spit and noise… neither of them drew blood. I’ll also note that my boy lived with other dogs without issue, attended weekly agility and Rally classes (which required some management but was not a big deal), and eventually earned an Excellent Rally title (which requires off leash performances in a room full of other dogs). I have to say that when he first started displaying reactivity (he would also run our fence and “fence fight” with the dogs next door) I knew nothing about reactive dogs and tried to ”correct” the behavior punitively, and more than once lost my temper with him. I can tell you from sad experience that if your dog’s behavior is fear based, then “correcting” him for the behavior will more likely make it worse.
> 
> Bottom line, based on what you describe, I think your best bet is to bring in a skilled trainer to assess your dog and teach you the best ways to deal with the behavior based on your particular dog. Another option is to look around your area for a class for reactive dogs… it’s a common enough problem that such classes are often offered, especially by any well-funded or well-staffed shelters. A trainer should also be able to help you decide how to address the separation anxiety. Some dogs will panic if confined. Others find the crate to be a safe place and are calmer when confined. Again, a good trainer should be able to help you determine the right course of action for your dog. If the rescue group you got him from is fairly local, they may be able to help you find a good trainer.


Thank you. I get it. When he first lunged at a jogger I got upset and was negative. We have been working on it and it's better but we are having a trainer come to the house this weekend. I want to be able to take him places where others walk their dogs and let him have play dates. We work on redirecting him and if not able we have him sit and stay and talk to him the whole time. It's better but still would feel better... A rescue lady I know told me the same thing about fine off leash. We are hopeful. It is literally the only thing we want to correct and do so properly. He is very smart and often learns things in just a day or two. Thank you.


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## goldy1 (Aug 5, 2012)

I love that you adopted him and are looking at the world through his eyes. Everyone has given great suggestions. You will get this because you are committed to him. He's seems to know you are and is attached to you already! But it will be good for him to have more confidence so the trainer is a good way to go. Continue to rely on your good instincts. I am not in favor of using the crate too much yet. Small steps: crate games, short time spans, often. I don't see the need for overnight crating. I like my dogs to be all together with us and they settle in that way too.
I have one who loves his crate and goes inside to rest on his own. My other boy goes in when necessary without a fuss but never just because. So personal preference. It's not something I use often, now that they are 2, but very good to have every dog crate-trained for events/trials, groomers, vet, and emergencies.


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