# Open Questions



## JDandBigAm (Aug 25, 2008)

For the broadjump, I use a piece of chicken wire formed into a triangle and placed at the end of the jump on the right side. At least try to have a flat side so the chicken wire doesn't roll around and you can tie a small piece of bright ribbon on the wire so the dog sees the chicken wire. Also, when learning th BJ my instructor had me tossing a toy/food about 8' or so as the dog is jumping so he will go out after the toy/food.
I'm not sure what you mean about the dog hitting the high jump?


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## Stretchdrive (Mar 12, 2011)

For the Broad Jump you could try moving her(and you) as far over to the right as you can when you set up, yet making sure you are both withing the line of the jump. That way she is more likely to jump straight, and not diagonal.


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## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

My first thought about the High Jump: Is the dumbbell interfering with your dogs ability to see? Are the bells too large or do they need more of an angle? Does the bit cause your dog to toss the dumbbell back to the molars (ie; the bar/bit is too long?) causing the head to tilt back?

For the Broad Jump, how did you originally teach it and how often to you allow your dog to front? My dogs are jumped with me tossing a treat 6 feet in front of the BJ, my taking a giant step to my right while they are airborne giving them nowhere to front if they cut the corner, my running to meet them several feet beyond the jump etc more often than they come to front. I will also sometimes place a pylon at the end or even a small garden fence. I personally do not ever raise my foot while they are mid-air or place anything that can startle or hurt them (chicken wire comes to mind) – I want my dogs super confident. I do sometimes place the 2” high jump board (or an agility jump bar) over the furthest BJ board (under the other boards) so it sticks out. I have seen trainers creating an X for the dogs to come through in the middle etc. 

You can also try different setups for both of you - maybe the dog to the right - maybe you more towards the last board etc

I should mention that I know plenty of people who kick out their foot and have heard that it must be done every 1st jump to be 100% effective - so your dog will expect the foot to come out in the ring.

ETA: When you say hit the High Jump on the way back, I am thinking you mean not to tick it? If you mean come back over the High Jump run up and touch the top board while you cue 'Come' or 'hup' and race backwards to receive your dumbbell. I do not ever accept a dumbbell (or scent article) that has not been properly delivered - this is a correction that is allowable in the ring  If the dog comes around the jump give your NRM or correction and set him up to come back over the jump.


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## Loisiana (Jul 29, 2009)

For broad jump, I do a combination of putting my foot out and running past the jump once the dog is in the air. Putting the foot out isn't meant to startle the dog or kick the dog, it's just saying to the dog, this is my space, and I might claim it at any time so stay out of it.

For the high jump, one mistake newer trainers make is not looking at the jump when the dumbbell goes off center. The natural reaction is to look at the dog...that just tells the dog to come straight into you. Look where you WANT him to go, which is to the jump.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

Fisher had a problem with cutting the corner of the broad jump. I didn't like the idea of luring him straight with a target or thrown toy/food and I didn't like the idea of "surprising" him with something unpleasant like chicken wire or a board.
I figured out that if I took one of my blind stakes (those black plastic fence stakes from TSC) and set it in the ground exactly where I DIDN'T want him to land (the corner), it made him have to go around the stake. Muscle memory. It worked really nicely!


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## hotel4dogs (Sep 29, 2008)

some of the big trainers in this area are very opposed to training with anything you can't take in the ring with you (chicken wire, boards, pipes, etc) so they teach using your own body to fix it.
They don't use a foot, they use a knee. Stand just a bit ahead of the farthest jump, and when the dog is starting the jump you do a slow, controlled "lunge" so that your knee juts out over the corner of the jump. It shouldn't startle the dog unless you have a really reactive dog, it just, as Jodie says, tells them to stay out of your space.
Since you always have your knee with you in the ring, the dog never knows if your knee is going to come out or not.
As for the high jump, I agree with Jodie. Stare at the jump. Will the dog to go over it. In training, you can give the command to jump it almost every time so that the dog gets used to the fact that, if you went out over the jump, you come back over the jump.


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## AmberSunrise (Apr 1, 2009)

Part of my proofing for the high jump (which carries over to directed jumping) is my standing offset to the HJ and _looking_ at the jump while I cue over - just my eyes  No arm or head movement. You start almost in the center and gradually work your way across the ring. Then the dog is set up offset and eventually the dumbbell is thrown in various places with the dog going over the high jump in both directions.

Your eyes are a very powerful tool - you should also be looking at the area you want your dog to land in once you have pivoted for the broad jump - 



hotel4dogs said:


> As for the high jump, I agree with Jodie. Stare at the jump. Will the dog to go over it. In training, you can give the command to jump it almost every time so that the dog gets used to the fact that, if you went out over the jump, you come back over the jump.


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## AmbikaGR (Dec 31, 2007)

What we have used for the BJ is those plastic trays that the single annual trays come packed in at garden centers. We place it on the ground on the right hand corner of where they would land when they cut the jump. Best when used indoors (provided mats are black) as it pretty much blends in and is not visible to the dog. If the dog lands on it it crushes and does not injure the dog. I have used this for Brooke and am VERY pleased with the results as it has carried over to matches where I do not use it.


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## MaddieMagoo (Aug 14, 2007)

Okay, just to clear up Sunrise: I meant by hitting the jump on the way back, by going over it and making sure she takes it. She has done this before, in 4H, but it's been quite awhile since we've put all the exercises together. 

I'm loving the suggestions for the broad jump! It's like the more times I practice it, the more she'll cut that dang corner! LOL!


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## Jige (Mar 17, 2011)

hotel4dogs said:


> some of the big trainers in this area are very opposed to training with anything you can't take in the ring with you (chicken wire, boards, pipes, etc) so they teach using your own body to fix it.
> They don't use a foot, they use a knee. Stand just a bit ahead of the farthest jump, and when the dog is starting the jump you do a slow, controlled "lunge" so that your knee juts out over the corner of the jump. It shouldn't startle the dog unless you have a really reactive dog, it just, as Jodie says, tells them to stay out of your space.
> Since you always have your knee with you in the ring, the dog never knows if your knee is going to come out or not.


 
This is exactly what I learned at the seminar I went this past winter. It was taught by Phil Rustad. He said that body language was everything and you could get your dog to do anything by even slightly moving your body or your eyes. he used his knee also with the BJ.


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## GoldenSail (Dec 30, 2008)

My instructor uses the method Janice Gunn has in her DVD where you place a cone out in front and to the side of the jump. You start by teaching the dog to wrap around the cone without the jump present. Then you add the jump. Takes the focus off of returning to you and encourages the dog to go further out when landing. Then we don't always ask for a finish. Once the dog has it down you also alternate with or without the cone.

My friend who travels 5+ hours to train with a multi OTCH trainer is also using this method through her instructor.


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## K9-Design (Jan 18, 2009)

GoldenSail said:


> My instructor uses the method Janice Gunn has in her DVD where you place a cone out in front and to the side of the jump. You start by teaching the dog to wrap around the cone without the jump present. Then you add the jump. Takes the focus off of returning to you and encourages the dog to go further out when landing. Then we don't always ask for a finish. Once the dog has it down you also alternate with or without the cone.
> 
> My friend who travels 5+ hours to train with a multi OTCH trainer is also using this method through her instructor.


That was kinda my thought with the stake, just smaller/less obvious than a cone.


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## JDandBigAm (Aug 25, 2008)

Jonah doesn't have too much of a problem cutting corners, but I might try the knee/lunge method should he get a bit lazy with the BJ. Great suggestions from everyone. I like the eye cue method some have suggested.


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## FlyingQuizini (Oct 24, 2006)

Broad jump:

As dog is in the air, I take a giant step and end up at the end of the broad jump, where I ask the dog to come front. It's like establishing "my lane" in the landing zone. Repeat often. Advantage = I'll always turn, even in the ring. When I turn, dog doesn't know if I'm going to land in my "zone" at the end or not, so he stays out of my way.


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## BayBeams (Jan 3, 2010)

I teach my dogs the broad jump by going around an object, such as a cone or a pole in the ground that is placed about 3 feet beyond the boards. First you teach the dog to go around the object with out the jumps, then add the jumps. It works great and the dogs never cut the corners! There is no need for contraptions or kicking with the leg to prevent the dog from turning too sharply.


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## MaddieMagoo (Aug 14, 2007)

I will try the knee thing and see if it works!

I entered Miss Maddie at the end of the month for Open A. Big gulp! Any proofing things I should be doing? She has the pieces there, but just need to put it all together!


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## BayBeams (Jan 3, 2010)

MaddieMagoo said:


> I will try the knee thing and see if it works!
> 
> I entered Miss Maddie at the end of the month for Open A. Big gulp! Any proofing things I should be doing? She has the pieces there, but just need to put it all together!


 
OHH, how fun!! I love the open class. Remember to relax and have FUN!

One other thing to keep in mind is to have a plan for getting your dog to the next exercise. Choreographing the "between" exercises is really important as you get to the advanced classes.
Can't wait to hear how you do.


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## Sally's Mom (Sep 20, 2010)

Open has always been my favorite. I initially taught the broad jump to my dogs by having them go straight to a target..whether it was a tile with food or a toy. Then I teach them to come back my way by throwing food or a toy to my left. With the three that I have trained, I also used a board on the right hand side of the broad to create the muscle memory of the turn. I never had an issue in the ring once the props were taken away.


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## MaddieMagoo (Aug 14, 2007)

BayBeams said:


> OHH, how fun!! I love the open class. Remember to relax and have FUN!
> 
> One other thing to keep in mind is to have a plan for getting your dog to the next exercise. Choreographing the "between" exercises is really important as you get to the advanced classes.
> Can't wait to hear how you do.


I will try and remember to have fun! I've always loved Open, as well. I guess if I'm aiming for a happy dog in the ring, I have to be a happy person myself! 

We have a trial next weekend, we're just doing Novice B. And then 2 weeks later we'll try Open!


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