# "Bops" me with toys !!



## Ffcmm (May 4, 2016)

teach her to drop it, and engage with her when she does.


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## PiperRoseMom (Jun 4, 2019)

Ffcmm said:


> teach her to drop it, and engage with her when she does.


Yes, of course, I've been trying that. Perhaps she will do it with a treat reward.


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

This is the bane of our existence…Felix does the same thing and ends up accidentally biting us in his enthusiasm…we have yet to figure out a solution


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## Oceanside (Mar 29, 2021)

My 7 month old also “bops” us with a toy, mostly from behind at the backs of our knees while we are standing up. Hard enough to knock guests over and hard enough where she is sometimes biting us right through the toy. I thought maybe it was just us.  I also have not come up with a solution yet.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

PiperRoseMom said:


> Piper (1yo) always "bops" / pushes toys against me when she want to play or wants attention.





Tagrenine said:


> This is the bane of our existence…Felix does the same thing





goldenlover41 said:


> My 7 month old also “bops” us with a toy, mostly from behind at the backs of our knees while we are standing up.


These dogs need more exercise, both physical and mental. This behavior is typical of every retriever I have ever had.
My dogs do it because they want to retrieve. Their favorite activity and what they were born to do. 

It is a struggle for me to remain polite when people talk about being irritated and annoyed by their retrievers when they behave like retrievers.


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## DevWind (Nov 7, 2016)

SRW said:


> These dogs need more exercise, both physical and mental. This behavior is typical of every retriever I have ever had.
> My dogs do it because they want to retrieve. Their favorite activity and what they were born to do.
> 
> It is a struggle for me to remain polite when people talk about being irritated and annoyed by their retrievers when they behave like retrievers.


I was thinking they might need more exercise too. Mine don't do that but they also get a lot of exercise.


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## diane0905 (Aug 20, 2010)

Logan occasionally will bring a toy to me in the house and I toss it. It's usually first thing in the morning. I keep him busy a lot so he's mostly chill when I need him to be. We are having a rare slower morning (in my honor because I'm tired) and he was over here a minute ago looking at me ready to go. I sent him to his place and he is lying on it at the moment waiting. I have nine more minutes until I'm moving. 😅 We've been on the go a lot lately! I'll take him on a long walk -- we stay out about an hour and a half walking & letting him sniff some, play fetch with him, and then we are off to agility this afternoon.


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## 3goldens2keep (Feb 13, 2019)

As already said, teach the 'drop' command! Be patient, takes time and repetition to properly train. I teach 'Sit' first and then 'drop'! Sitting stops the pushing right away. You can find many introductory obedience classes, that include these commands in the programs....


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## CCoopz (Jun 2, 2020)

My Teddy does that sometimes to in the morning if we are having a slow morning. Even after a morning and midday walk he will want some interactive play, often at around 3-4pm. When I working I can’t meet his needs fully so I just give the toy a little tug for a couple minutes. Then like today when I finished at 5pm we went into the garden for 15 minutes of rough (but safe) play with a bumper and then towel. Lots of tug of war. But he has learnt to drop it or leave it so I can pause the game to calm and reset. 
I take it as he needs more mental stimulation that day. As he turns down a 3rd walk, refuses to walk out the drive but when we go back in he runs to the garden and picks up a toy and does this head shaking thing to invite us to play.
Try scheduling more mentally stimulating play. Practicing training, tricks, retrieving, scent based games.


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## Oceanside (Mar 29, 2021)

SRW said:


> These dogs need more exercise, both physical and mental. This behavior is typical of every retriever I have ever had.
> My dogs do it because they want to retrieve. Their favorite activity and what they were born to do.


I do agree, as I mostly see this on days with a little less exercise, i.e. a rainy day. For the most part my pup gets around 2 hours of off leash, retrieves, and recall training along with some other training on most days. Sometimes she definitely is still looking for more, and does the “bopping” but it’s much more minimal on days with a lot of exercise. I’ve been thinking of doing hunt test training with her for some more stimulation and a goal to work toward.


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

Exercise is not the issue here…2+ hours of fetch/agility training/or just running around outside doesn’t eliminate the behavior inside. Our issue is that he won’t release the toy for us to throw it. It becomes a game of keep away or tug. We just don’t have the skills to train it out of him

edit: adding onto this, I wouldn’t care about the bopping, it’s the little pinch biting that comes along with it that drives me up a wall😪


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

goldenlover41 said:


> I’ve been thinking of doing hunt test training with her for some more stimulation and a goal to work toward.


She would love it.


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## ArkansasGold (Dec 7, 2017)

You have several choices here:
1. Give her more mental stimulation and exercise throughout the day. 
2. Stop what you are doing and play with her. 
3. Teach her to drop it, then reward by playing with her. 
4. When she starts bugging you, make her work. I keep a bag of treats and a dumbbell on my desk for this purpose. 
5. Ignore her completely. As in pretend she doesn’t exist.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

ArkansasGold said:


> You have several choices here:
> 1. Give her more mental stimulation and exercise throughout the day.
> 2. Stop what you are doing and play with her.
> 3. Teach her to drop it, then reward by playing with her.
> ...


6. Get a goldfish instead of a Golden retriever.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Tagrenine said:


> We just don’t have the skills to train it out of him


Then how do you know what does or does not cause it?


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

Tagrenine said:


> Exercise is not the issue here…2+ hours of fetch/agility training/or just running around outside doesn’t eliminate the behavior inside. Our issue is that he won’t release the toy for us to throw it. It becomes a game of keep away or tug. We just don’t have the skills to train it out of him





SRW said:


> Then how do you know what does or does not cause it?


We’ve tried disengaging, which results in pinching, crating, going out and actually playing, practicing his obedience/agility, and physical correction. I’ve not been able to teach a reliable drop and I don’t really know how to use an e collar, so that’s our weakest point. 

Exercise is great but our biggest issue is mental. He is easily bored and it’s how he gets our attention. Ignoring would be the easiest solution but we have had bruises from how pushy he gets. Right now we just crate him when he gets worked up or pry the toy from his mouth and try to make it a game of fetch instead of keep away or tug.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Tagrenine said:


> We’ve tried disengaging, which results in pinching, crating, going out and actually playing, practicing his obedience/agility, and physical correction. I’ve not been able to teach a reliable drop and I don’t really know how to use an e collar, so that’s our weakest point.
> 
> Exercise is great but our biggest issue is mental. He is easily bored and it’s how he gets our attention. Ignoring would be the easiest solution but we have had bruises from how pushy he gets. Right now we just crate him when he gets worked up or pry the toy from his mouth and try to make it a game of fetch instead of keep away or tug.


I don't think an e collar is necessary. When teaching and building on a puppies desire to retrieve I start with a toy they like, stuffed animals with squeakers are great. When the pup returns with the toy I toss it immediately after taking it. If they don't want to release it, I will stick a finger or thumb down their throat. I try not to make a big deal of doing it, just get the idea across that the fun continues as soon as they give it up and not giving means they get that thumb in the throat. Of course it gets more difficult with an older dog that has a habit of not releasing. It is called freezing in field trial lingo and can be a very difficult problem to fix. This is generally only a problem with real birds.

Sit is your foundational command. Your pup should sit on command and remain sitting until told to do otherwise. When he get pushy with you, instead of crating him command sit and make sure he obeys. You would be teaching him to stop the behavior rather than simply preventing him from doing it.
I would also just use the sit command when he won't drop or release an object. I think you already know that trying to pull the object from a dog will only encourage the behavior.

As retrievers progress in training it gets more and more difficult to keep them mentally challenged. That's where a training group really helps.


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## Piper_the_goldenpuppy (Aug 26, 2016)

All these teenage dogs with unlimited energy and bad manners. I don't miss those days. Be firm, consistent, and patient. You are the one in control. Goldens will pester if they are bored, want attention, want to play and this is a normal thing. A request is good. Harassing is not. Any dog who pesters needs a job. The very intelligent/very driven especially. Goldens are working dogs. They will all push the boundaries harder (bop harder, be more persistent) at this age. They need a lot of physical and mental exercise.

Dogs can/should be trained the acceptable way to initiate play. If you want her to drop it, give the command and reward with a treat/play. Only play with her after she drops the toy. Repeat. If your dog knows "drop it" they will get this. Consistency is key. If you do not wish to play, you should instruct her as to the desired behavior (ie, sit, lie down, settle, go to your bed), or if you've trained her fun things--"go clean up your toys" or "bring me X"

Most dogs will drop a toy for a treat if food motivated. Or a higher value toy. I taught drop when I worked retrieving (use 2 bumpers/balls, when the dog is close to me, show the other ball and say "drop it" and shape from there) Its an important skill and the smart ones will learn they can throw their own balls, like mine did 

If a dog started pinch biting me in this way I would disengage completely. Turn my body away, curl into a literal ball and refuse to make eye contact. Keep a leash on in the house and immediately redirect to a heel, if jumping is part of it stand on the leash as you possibly can to the attachment so they can't, or if you need a break, to the crate. Or put them into a sit or down stay. The leash can prevent running off to play chase, but it's a tether, not to vent frustration. Every single time. I would reward any time good behavior happens. This is not OK. I might get rid of all toys except bones (ie, things that are for chewing, not playing), until your dog earns the right, unless YOU decide to engage in play. That dog now works for everything. 5 minute training session for each walk. All meals come during training sessions, or kong wobbler for all meals. Snuffle mat. Scent work. Hide and seek for toy. Find the treats around the home. Train to pick up toys. Train to identify specific toys by name. Train to go to specific doors. Want to be pet? Must sit->paw->down->sit first. Want a toy? Same thing.

Keep away is only fun if someone plays back. Stop playing back. My first dog was like this. She lost the privilege for tug for a while. Or, take away all toys that could be used for tug/keep away (leave bones/antlers, for example). If you keep things out so your dog isn't bored, those toys are now off duty for dog-person play. Anything you want be a group activity with your dog (ball, throwing a stuffy), keep out of reach until YOU decide to play.


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

SRW said:


> I don't think an e collar is necessary. When teaching and building on a puppies desire to retrieve I start with a toy they like, stuffed animals with squeakers are great. When the pup returns with the toy I toss it immediately after taking it. If they don't want to release it, I will stick a finger or thumb down their throat. I try not to make a big deal of doing it, just get the idea across that the fun continues as soon as they give it up and not giving means they get that thumb in the throat. Of course it gets more difficult with an older dog that has a habit of not releasing. It is called freezing in field trial lingo and can be a very difficult problem to fix. This is generally only a problem with real birds.
> 
> Sit is your foundational command. Your pup should sit on command and remain sitting until told to do otherwise. When he get pushy with you, instead of crating him command sit and make sure he obeys. You would be teaching him to stop the behavior rather than simply preventing him from doing it.
> I would also just use the sit command when he won't drop or release an object. I think you already know that trying to pull the object from a dog will only encourage the behavior.
> ...


Thank you for this! I’ll start asking him to sit. We’ve been phasing/cutting food based rewards from his training and surprisingly have made more progress in his willingness to listen and I think getting him to sit will help a lot.
I’m surrounded by dog training groups that are solely R+ so there’s another challenge…I worry we won’t ever be competitive in obedience or anything we want to do without experienced trainers around. 
He gets bored so easily, I wish I had the resources to take him to hunt/obedience/agility training every day of the week, but we’ve set up quite a bit in the backyard. We’re expecting to move to another state soon though and I’m hoping there will be a hunting retriever club to join


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Tagrenine said:


> I’ll start asking him to sit.


'Sit' must be a command not a request. I know that you know that.


Tagrenine said:


> We’ve been phasing/cutting food based rewards from his training and surprisingly have made more progress in his willingness to listen and I think getting him to sit will help a lot.


I am not at all surprised.


Tagrenine said:


> I’m surrounded by dog training groups that are solely R+


Don't know what R+ is.


Tagrenine said:


> We’re expecting to move to another state soon though and I’m hoping there will be a hunting retriever club to join


What state?


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

SRW said:


> 'Sit' must be a command not a request. I know that you know that.
> 
> I am not at all surprised.
> 
> ...


Right on all counts! R+, positive reinforcement, etc. basically bribe the dog to do the right thing or slap a head collar on it and then say you’re done. We went to a class where the answer to him not doing what we wanted was to get “bigger and better” treats and I thought “who is training who?”
We live in SFlorida, about an hour north of Miami

edit: we’re deciding between Oregon, Utah, Kentucky, Iowa, Michigan, and Pennsylvania. I’ll have a better idea by January of which we will pick for certain


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Tagrenine said:


> Right on all counts! R+, positive reinforcement, etc. basically bribe the dog to do the right thing or slap a head collar on it and then say you’re done. We went to a class where the answer to him not doing what we wanted was to get “bigger and better” treats and I thought “who is training who?”
> We live in SFlorida, about an hour north of Miami
> 
> edit: we’re deciding between Oregon, Utah, Kentucky, Iowa, Michigan, and Pennsylvania. I’ll have a better idea by January of which we will pick for certain


 Treasure Coast Retriever Club. OKEECHOBEE, FLORIDA 
I think there is at least one club in each of those states. I am in Iowa.


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## PalouseDogs (Aug 14, 2013)

To the OP: Funny, most retriever trainers WANT a delivery to hand, NOT a drop at their feet.

Give him a good retrieving session every day. If you don't have bumpers, I suggest buying a few. Even if you don't have anyone to throw for you, the bumper weight and the attached rope will allow you to throw it a lot further than a tennis ball. (More dog stops per toss.) Teach him to retrieve by YOUR rules. 
1. He has to remain sitting until you give the release (verbal or hand motion). A platform will help in training this. If you don't know how, find someone to help. 
2. He must bring the bumper straight back to you and sit either in front or by your side in heel position and hold the bumper until you say "Give" (or "out" or whatever). 

After you have taught him to retrieve one bumper at a time ("singles"), try teaching him to retrieve hand-thrown doubles. You throw one bumper, pause a second or two, then throw a second one to a different location. Send him for the second one, have him deliver it, then turn and face the first one and send him for that. Make it easy at first (short, 180 degrees apart, bumpers on grass). Then up the difficulty by throwing one in cover (like tall grass(, then throw both in cover. Add a third bumper and get him retriever triples. Mental and physical exercise.

On warm days, keep it short unless he has access to a pond to cool down in. A driven retriever will literally retrieve until they drop dead of heat stroke. 

When you're done, put the toys away and tell him no more. 

To the person who can't get her dog to drop the toy, SRWs suggestions are good. I would only add that you never want to get into a tugging game if you want him to release it. I play tug sometimes with my dogs, but when I stop tugging, and say "give", I expect him to give. If you tug, he is going to clamp down harder.


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

PalouseDogs said:


> To the OP: Funny, most retriever trainers WANT a delivery to hand, NOT a drop at their feet.


Have to spend a lot of time on it with some dogs.


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## Tagrenine (Aug 20, 2019)

SRW said:


> Treasure Coast Retriever Club. OKEECHOBEE, FLORIDA
> I think there is at least one club in each of those states. I am in Iowa.


Thank You! I had tried the South Florida HRC before and wasn’t able to get ahold of anyone. I’ll try treasure coast


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## SRW (Dec 21, 2018)

Tagrenine said:


> Thank You! I had tried the South Florida HRC before and wasn’t able to get ahold of anyone. I’ll try treasure coast


You should be able to find some contact info on Entry Express




__





Entry Express Event Management Systems






www.entryexpress.net




Mostly AKC events on EE.
I believe the treasure coast club has both hunt tests and field trials.


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## gagaforgoldens (Jun 29, 2021)

Tagrenine said:


> This is the bane of our existence…Felix does the same thing and ends up accidentally biting us in his enthusiasm…we have yet to figure out a solution


Same here! It’s often a surprise painful attack while I’m doing dishes.


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