# golden aggression



## Prism Goldens (May 27, 2011)

You will need a good bit of knowledge into dog behavior before you could even start to try to head this behavior off, so spending some money on a good (GOOD being the key word ) behaviorist would be smart. Where are you located?


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## Altairss (Sep 7, 2012)

The reason he is acting this way can be caused by many things, fear, lack of socialization, over excitement, trying to defend you or thinking he needs to, over arousal, impulse control or a combination of them just to name a few. For this going to certified behaviorist is the best way to start, they see things we miss. Sometimes a trainer that is extremely qualified to work with behavior issues in a positive manner will work but you will save time and money not to mention stress on both you and your dog to see the behaviorist first. But do your homework to find a good one so you don't waste money on one that will not help you diagnose the reason and how to manage and work on the reasons behind the behavior. Someone that really knows body language needs to observe him and watch what is setting him off this is not a quick fix I know I have been there and the longer you wait the more the problem can escalate. If you give us an area that your in someone here can probably recommend someone.


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

Best way to fix it on your own is be preventive.

Don't set your dog up for fail. 

Don't put him in the position where he's going to get reactive. 

Keep a bubble of space (10 feet min) between him and other dogs. Or if you have to be in closer proximity, control his nose/head/eyes.

A lot of people who have to sit their dogs close to others at trials... and don't want posturing (or for their dogs to SEE posturing), they will do a little extra to prevent their dogs from looking at the others. Literally controlling the nose. 

Be aware of the tiniest "start" to your dog posturing or reacting. 

^^^ I had this conversation with a friend of mine regarding why it seems some dogs get attacked by others. What she and I agreed on is that some dogs walk into a building and immediately stare down other dogs. They might not actually be aggressive or growling or anything like that, but they DO start things by challenging the other dogs who WILL react. This is true especially for bigger dogs.

Some breeds automatically are "threatening" to insecure dogs. Short faced dogs like boxers, for example. They look like they are challenging even when they aren't. Same thing with dogs with big ruffs like Tibetan Mastiffs and so on. 

Mainly - just be aware of your dog's body language more. 

If you have an aggressive dog or one that's just basically reactive and jerk about other dogs, you can't turn him loose with other dogs. You can't walk him into buildings or around other dogs with him way at the end of a 6 foot leash and able to charge those other dogs. 

Each negative incident will reinforce your dog's instinct to protect his turf (including you). So it's very important to just be proactive. Unless you have a puppy, this is not something that's going to get trained away. Maybe this is just me, but pretty much anybody promising to completely change your dog into a totally different one and get rid of the behavior completely - they are not being realistic. Or they want a long term customer.

*** Meant to say though. One thing you can do is look around for obedience classes. Your dog is not going to go into these classes and come out a dog who suddenly is perfect running around with other dogs. But obedience training and group classes can help give dogs confidence and focus. Takes the edge off various social issues, particularly if their main issue is fear aggression and insecurity. It means down the road you can have a dog who can be right next to other dogs and not be whipping around to stare them down to go for the jugular. They get so they can be around other dogs and be relatively secure in their space. It won't be an overnight thing - you may have to go months, regularly and work on all the above stuff (controlling the eyes/head, bubble, identifying what sets your dog off and being way ahead of them to control the situation, etc). And you need to find a good place to train where you aren't all crammed into a shoebox. A place where you have experienced trainers conducting an organized and safe class.

It's a lot more work than just hiring a behaviorist to come to your house. But long term it does pay off. 

One of my prior dogs (Sammy) was a dog who other dogs hated. I still don't know why because it wasn't like he was strutting into places with his tail touching his head. But he was the most well-adjusted dog ever - a lot of which had to do with him going to group classes and being around nice dogs majority of the time. It reinforced positives while we totally avoided negative situations. Because he had been not only attacked but literally had dogs chasing after him and trying to rip his throat out (dogs who ran through their invisible fencing to get at him - I might add, it's a huge reason why I absolutely hate invisible fencing). He could have become fear aggressive if there were no group classes and positive reinforcement as far as him being around other dogs.

The behaviorist coming to your house (or you going to them for private one on ones) is primarily a thing you need to do if your dog is dangerous around other dogs and out of control (on leash). Most group classes will not accept dogs like that. Just to explain the difference.

If a dog is mildly reactive and growling or focusing on other dogs - but not out of control. Group classes under a good trainer will address those issues.


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