# Leash aggressive?



## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Hello Everyone! I am very new to this site. I have a 1.5 year old male Golden. His name is Nixon. We live in Brooklyn which I think is important to this issue. My boyfriend and I got Nixon from a fantastic Breeder when he was 7 weeks of age. He was and still is a confident and curious puppy. He listens very well and I wasted no time starting to train him. We brought him to puppy play times and at the right age we started him going to dog daycare which he just loves. A few times a year we visit my boyfriends family upstate and they own a Norfolk Terrier, who is pretty manic, an only "child" and just really unpredictable. At only 4 months the terrier went after Nix while playing by the pool over a pool toy. I had to literally lift Nixon off the ground from Stu getting to him. As time went on, clearly Nixon grew to almost 70 lbs now. They got in a fight over beef jerky, Nixon got stu's ear and he had a scratch. It scared me to hell, and from that point on when we visit they are not to be together when there is anything of competition. In the mean time, when back at home in Brooklyn Nixon started growling at certain dogs and now sometime he barks and lunges. It's extremely random, so I just avoid it at all cost. We got a trainer and then trainer started us using positive reinforcement with treats to help him have a better experience when seeing another dog on our walk. 8 out of 10 dogs he passes without a notice. I am concerned that this 1. Get worse 2. That just using treats isn't enough. I should mention off leash at daycare he has had not a problem and they always say he is a star student. Is this normal? Can I do anything else? I want him to feel balanced and healthy. I am also concerned about bring him near Stu and then as influence his manic behavior might have on Nixon. Any advice is truly helpful!!


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## Pilgrim123 (Jul 26, 2014)

I'll be following this thread with a great deal of interest - I have a dog who is leash reactive. And I am convinced I am the problem. As I get tense, wondering if he's going to react, he does, too, wondering why I'm so worried when there's a dog near us. Perhaps he needs to feed me the treats, rather than the other way round!


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## FosterGolden (Mar 10, 2014)

It's not abnormal for a dog to be reactive while on leash. I find that daycares can make it worse because dogs that go to daycare from an early age don't understand that they can't just run up to any dog and every dog they wish, and they become frustrated and can lash out. However, this may not be his issue. It may just be he doesn't like being on a leash around other dogs. The issue he had with the other dog was off-leash, so I don't know if it is relevant, but those dogs should not be together at all. It may be a matter of how you dealt with things in the past, tensing up, jerking him, pulling him, getting worried which in turn makes him worried. All understandable, but important to note. 

I have seen great strides with people using clickers and food for leash reactivity, but it takes time. It actually takes time regardless of method because you're trying to change his emotional state, not just a habit. It's the difference between trying to make a person who is, say, afraid to fly no longer afraid (emotional state) and getting someone to stop clicking their pen (a habit). The flying situation is going to take more time to fix, and it'll probably never be 100% fixed, than the pen situation, which someone could just replace with something less distracting anyway, like doodling. There is no quick fix!


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

To help deal with leash reactivity you need to decide what you want your dog to do instead of focusing on the other dog, and help him learn how to do it. Counter conditioning and desensitizing (feeding treats, giving lots of praise when they see another dog) to change how they feel about other dogs is part of the program, the other part is 'knowing' what to do when in a situation that your dog may 'go off'. Learn to 'read' your dog, know what his stress signals are, so that you can better tell when a situation is starting become uncomfortable for him and you can help him _before _he escalates. It may mean creating distance, by crossing the street, or stopping in a spot where he cannot see the other dog, and give him something 'to do', eye contact, if he is able, respond to known cues, touch, sit,or just tossing some treats on the ground (to help him calm himself) while the other dog goes past.

Confidence building exercises and learning 'coping skills' - to look at you, and do something else, can help a dog learn to better cope with their stress load. Teaching the dog to 'look at you' when he sees another dog, helps to keep his mind in 'thinking' mode, (helping to maintain 'self control') giving them 'something' to do, touch their nose to your hand, 'let's go', (keeping them moving, creating distance), keeps their mind and body engaged. Teaching an emergency 'U-turn' for those times when you are in a tight spot, need to avoid a 'close encounter' with another dog. 
The goal is to have some 'tools' in your and your dog's 'tool box' to use when needed, which, in turn, having a 'plan', knowing what you are going to do, can help you to stay calm and 'in control' in the face of a potential stressing/anxiety producing situations for both of you. 

When you are out with your dog, ensure you are giving him feedback, when he is being good, praise him, let him know, he is a 'GOOD dog.', let him know when he is being a REALLY good dog (give him some meaningful praise and a few treats). Assume he may react to the sight of another dog, and practice those skills you want him to use, those 'behaviors' you want him to do, instead of reacting to another dog.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Omg yes! I try to stay confident and calm for him and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, a treat for me would be nice lol


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

FosterGolden said:


> It's not abnormal for a dog to be reactive while on leash. I find that daycares can make it worse because dogs that go to daycare from an early age don't understand that they can't just run up to any dog and every dog they wish, and they become frustrated and can lash out. However, this may not be his issue. It may just be he doesn't like being on a leash around other dogs. The issue he had with the other dog was off-leash, so I don't know if it is relevant, but those dogs should not be together at all. It may be a matter of how you dealt with things in the past, tensing up, jerking him, pulling him, getting worried which in turn makes him worried. All understandable, but important to note.
> 
> I have seen great strides with people using clickers and food for leash reactivity, but it takes time. It actually takes time regardless of method because you're trying to change his emotional state, not just a habit. It's the difference between trying to make a person who is, say, afraid to fly no longer afraid (emotional state) and getting someone to stop clicking their pen (a habit). The flying situation is going to take more time to fix, and it'll probably never be 100% fixed, than the pen situation, which someone could just replace with something less distracting anyway, like doodling. There is no quick fix!


This is super helpful. I've tried watching some you tube videos on leash reaction/aggression. The gentlemen explained that he is almost was throwing a tantrum that he cannot do what he wishes.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Charliethree said:


> To help deal with leash reactivity you need to decide what you want your dog to do instead of focusing on the other dog, and help him learn how to do it. Counter conditioning and desensitizing (feeding treats, giving lots of praise when they see another dog) to change how they feel about other dogs is part of the program, the other part is 'knowing' what to do when in a situation that your dog may 'go off'. Learn to 'read' your dog, know what his stress signals are, so that you can better tell when a situation is starting become uncomfortable for him and you can help him _before _he escalates. It may mean creating distance, by crossing the street, or stopping in a spot where he cannot see the other dog, and give him something 'to do', eye contact, if he is able, respond to known cues, touch, sit,or just tossing some treats on the ground (to help him calm himself) while the other dog goes past.
> 
> Confidence building exercises and learning 'coping skills' - to look at you, and do something else, can help a dog learn to better cope with their stress load. Teaching the dog to 'look at you' when he sees another dog, helps to keep his mind in 'thinking' mode, (helping to maintain 'self control') giving them 'something' to do, touch their nose to your hand, 'let's go', (keeping them moving, creating distance), keeps their mind and body engaged. Teaching an emergency 'U-turn' for those times when you are in a tight spot, need to avoid a 'close encounter' with another dog.
> The goal is to have some 'tools' in your and your dog's 'tool box' to use when needed, which, in turn, having a 'plan', knowing what you are going to do, can help you to stay calm and 'in control' in the face of a potential stressing/anxiety producing situations for both of you.
> ...


Thank you so much! This makes me understand a bit better and having something to work on is really great. I do try look at me, and sit all of which he knows and does on command. The issue I'm having is we live in a very popular area of Brooklyn, there are constantly people and dogs and children around. Tons of smells to distract him. I have done training outside with him but I basically need to hang a steak in front of his face for him to concentrate solely on myself. He is constantly looking around and very stimulated. Any suggestions on keeping his attention for longer periods?


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## marshafuzia (Jul 15, 2017)

You need to " build " the level of distraction for him. Start your training in your home with no distractions. Add, noise ( TV, radio ). When he will focus on you and what you are asking him to do, then go to an area that has a little more distraction, like a hallway or room in a dog friendly building or friend's home. Eventually take him out to a quiet park, with no dogs or people near by, if you have a place like that.


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## puddles everywhere (May 13, 2016)

I used to have a client with a large (150 lb) Akita and lady was terrified of getting pulled down. I never had an issue walking this dog but could see her anxiety was influencing his behavior. 
Since it was her fear of her loosing control I suggested we work on a very solid down command at home. Then she could put him in a down command and wait for the other dogs to walk on by and allowing her to feel in control.

It took a few months before she started to feel more confident but it made a big difference. Not sure if this will solve your problem but it's worth a try. Good luck!


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

marshafuzia said:


> You need to " build " the level of distraction for him. Start your training in your home with no distractions. Add, noise ( TV, radio ). When he will focus on you and what you are asking him to do, then go to an area that has a little more distraction, like a hallway or room in a dog friendly building or friend's home. Eventually take him out to a quiet park, with no dogs or people near by, if you have a place like that.


Thank you! I am going to try this. Especially the part in the apartment and adding more noise. There are definitely some quieter streets we can walk to, ( any bit of green in NYC people flock to on a regular basis) I try to take him on work days when most people are at work.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

puddles everywhere said:


> I used to have a client with a large (150 lb) Akita and lady was terrified of getting pulled down. I never had an issue walking this dog but could see her anxiety was influencing his behavior.
> Since it was her fear of her loosing control I suggested we work on a very solid down command at home. Then she could put him in a down command and wait for the other dogs to walk on by and allowing her to feel in control.
> 
> It took a few months before she started to feel more confident but it made a big difference. Not sure if this will solve your problem but it's worth a try. Good luck!


I do notice that Nixon barks at more dogs when I walk him than when my boyfriend does. I think if we do these exercises together ( Nix and I ) it will also help me to trust him more . Would you suggest going on some walks with a calmer dog that could help Nix get used to just walking and be calm? Or maybe that is something to do once we practice a bit?


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Micki125 said:


> Thank you so much! This makes me understand a bit better and having something to work on is really great. I do try look at me, and sit all of which he knows and does on command. The issue I'm having is we live in a very popular area of Brooklyn, there are constantly people and dogs and children around. Tons of smells to distract him. I have done training outside with him but I basically need to hang a steak in front of his face for him to concentrate solely on myself. He is constantly looking around and very stimulated. Any suggestions on keeping his attention for longer periods?


Consider getting the book: On Talking Terms with Dogs by Turid Rugaas, to help you learn the basics of what his body language, his behavior, is telling you about how he is feeling.

Sounds like he is stressed, anxious, on walks, try keeping the walks to quieter times of day, (less distractions) try to find less busy areas to walk, and making the walks shorter, anxiety builds in dogs just like it does with us, so the longer he is 'out there', the more stressed he may become, while you are working with him. 'Sniffing' is a behavior dogs use to 'calm' themselves, (head down, focusing on something is a natural and 'pleasurable' behavior for them, is calming in itself, if he wants to sniff, let him, then encourage him to move on, or there are times when you want to try to help him calm himself, toss a few treats on the ground, and encourage him to find them. 

The goal with teaching 'eye contact' is for it to become 'habit', for the dog to 'offer' it, to choose to 'check in' with you. You can practice it at home, out in the the backyard, where there are few distractions, then out on the front step where there are more distractions, and then out on walks as he is able to succeed. Understand that if he is feeling tense, stressed, he is naturally going to want to see (keep an eye on what is happening around him) and it is okay for him to look, (briefly) then with practice, encouragement and reward, to look back to you. 

this article may be helpful to you.
https://www.clickertraining.com/files/auto-eye-contact.pdf

The book: 'Cautious Canine' by Patricia B McConnell can give you a little more insight into what is going on with your dog, and how to work with him.

Keep in mind this is a learning process for both him and you, it takes time, patience, practice and reward, and you may need to remind yourself to 'slow down' and work at your dog's pace.


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## puddles everywhere (May 13, 2016)

It's been my experience that who ever is holding the leash has the strongest influence so until you feel in control over all situations you might end up with two reactive dogs instead of one 
If it were a matter of walking an unconfident dog this might help but sounds like your dog is plenty confident. When was the last time you attended a good obedience class? Might be time for another class to remind him and give you back some confidence.


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Micki125 said:


> I do notice that Nixon barks at more dogs when I walk him than when my boyfriend does. I think if we do these exercises together ( Nix and I ) it will also help me to trust him more . Would you suggest going on some walks with a calmer dog that could help Nix get used to just walking and be calm? Or maybe that is something to do once we practice a bit?


Consider getting some 'tools' (handling skills) in your 'tool kit' and practice until they become 'second nature' for you - the more confident you are in your own handling skills, the more relaxed you can be on walks.

Walking with a more confident dog can be helpful for some dogs, not so much for others, something you could try sometime, but for now likely better to focus on learning the skills you both would benefit from.

Having a 'default' behavior, such as 'sit (and look at me'), or even 'touch' their nose to your hand, well practiced, rewarded, and generalized, is a great skill for your dog to have. However, I would caution against using a 'down' as a 'default' behavior for an anxious/stressed dog, it can add more stress to an already stressful situation because it puts them in a 'vulnerable' position in the presence of something they feel is a threat.

We need to keep in mind that when our dog 'reacts' to other dogs when on leash, it may be caused by over excitement/frustration with wanting to greet the other dog and being unable to, or it may be that our dog is fearful and is trying to create/maintain distance (safety in the eyes of the dog), wants the other dog to 'go away'. We need to pay attention to what both ends of the dog is doing. My dog reactive dog used to put on an 'impressive' 'go away' display at the sight of other dogs, (standing tall, weight on his front legs, barking, lunging, the fur on his shoulders standing on end) with the front half of his body, his back end told a whole different set of emotions, tail tucked, back legs braced, and ready for flight, indicating that underneath it all, he was truly afraid and trying to keep himself safe.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Charliethree said:


> Micki125 said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you so much! This makes me understand a bit better and having something to work on is really great. I do try look at me, and sit all of which he knows and does on command. The issue I'm having is we live in a very popular area of Brooklyn, there are constantly people and dogs and children around. Tons of smells to distract him. I have done training outside with him but I basically need to hang a steak in front of his face for him to concentrate solely on myself. He is constantly looking around and very stimulated. Any suggestions on keeping his attention for longer periods?
> ...


I am going to get these books. I never thought of him having anxiety ( first time golden owner lol) I always assumed he was looking for dogs to play with or people to say hello to. When he was a pup people constantly stopped us to pet him, and what did we know. I just assumed he learned that outside behavior meant lots of attention for him. He does sniff a lot, which I also assumed was because of how many dogs live in our area ( we live in an area with about 5 buildings all over 30 floors ). I think reading more about his body language will really help me understand what he needs. Thank you for this. We don't have a backyard but our hallway is quiet and i think it would work for some "outside of the house training". Thank you again for your help, looking forward to this journey with him.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

puddles everywhere said:


> It's been my experience that who ever is holding the leash has the strongest influence so until you feel in control over all situations you might end up with two reactive dogs instead of one
> If it were a matter of walking an unconfident dog this might help but sounds like your dog is plenty confident. When was the last time you attended a good obedience class? Might be time for another class to remind him and give you back some confidence.


lol it's so funny because I am a confident person, but my fear of something happening I think takes over. So part of the problem is me ??. We have only ever done 1 on 1 training with a trainer, never a class setting. Do you think his could help?


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Charliethree said:


> Micki125 said:
> 
> 
> > I do notice that Nixon barks at more dogs when I walk him than when my boyfriend does. I think if we do these exercises together ( Nix and I ) it will also help me to trust him more . Would you suggest going on some walks with a calmer dog that could help Nix get used to just walking and be calm? Or maybe that is something to do once we practice a bit?
> ...


He does know Touch! Our trainer taught it to us to help recall him when we are upstate, and it works beautifully. I never thought of that as something I could do to help him focus. I just bought the books online. So if we walk by a dog and he takes notice I say touch give him a treat and keeping walking? Or make him sit?


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## Gleepers (Apr 20, 2016)

We have been using CARE technique with our little guy. It's a slow process probably made slower that most of the time I'm walking 2 at once. But it is working. 
This is my second reactive dog so Ive got some skills. My last dog it took a few years (he was really bad) but eventually I could walk him anywhere. 
Ive found sometimes walking a big reactive dog with a harness with a back handle can be helpful. Attach the leash how ever you normally would do. Having a handle can give you more control if he happens to go off reducing the stress on you.


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## Gleepers (Apr 20, 2016)

Link to the CARE websit
http://careforreactivedogs.com/


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Micki125 said:


> He does know Touch! Our trainer taught it to us to help recall him when we are upstate, and it works beautifully. I never thought of that as something I could do to help him focus. I just bought the books online. So if we walk by a dog and he takes notice I say touch give him a treat and keeping walking? Or make him sit?


The 'touch' game has many wonderful uses, and works well for maintaining focus and a 'thinking' dog. 
It depends on what you want him to do. Cuing the touch 'behavior' helps to redirect his mind and focus to you, so that you can let him know what you want him to do next. (One of my dogs learned to use the 'touch' to let me know when she was feeling anxious/stressed.) Do you want to keep on walking? which is often the best choice, (when he is anxious), then add the 'let's go' cue, and keep going. Can also practice adding the 'sit' cue, when he is happy, feeling safe, so that you 'have it', when you need it.


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## Micki125 (Jul 29, 2017)

Charliethree said:


> Micki125 said:
> 
> 
> > He does know Touch! Our trainer taught it to us to help recall him when we are upstate, and it works beautifully. I never thought of that as something I could do to help him focus. I just bought the books online. So if we walk by a dog and he takes notice I say touch give him a treat and keeping walking? Or make him sit?
> ...


That's a great idea! I'm going to start those today! I never really thought about training in that way and under stress it feels like it all goes out the door. My trainer said he is very eager to please to I'm hoping with time and practice he will feel less anxious. Thank you again for all the great advice


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## Charliethree (Jul 18, 2010)

Micki125 said:


> That's a great idea! I'm going to start those today! I never really thought about training in that way and under stress it feels like it all goes out the door. My trainer said he is very eager to please to I'm hoping with time and practice he will feel less anxious. Thank you again for all the great advice


It is very likely he will feel more confident in time, and so will you! 

We need to keep in mind that 'our dogs are not giving us a hard time, they are having a hard time'.


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## puddles everywhere (May 13, 2016)

Obedience classes are awesome for teaching dogs how to behave in crowds. No petsmart/petco classes but a good obedience group will do wonders. Perfect senecio... several dogs on leashes and an instructor to help with your issue. Classes can be lots of fun but considering your problem don't expect a perfect 1st class


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