# Ear Mats



## puddles everywhere (May 13, 2016)

I use a (baby version) of leave in conditioner.. spray on. But you can also get a furminator and comb it through to strip out some of the hair.
I don't really like those things but after thinning it out with shears once a month I do a quick "stripping" each week after baths.
The rake makes quick work on mats, just start at the longest point and work your way back to the skin.
Sipsy has a very heavy coat and never had this problem before so take my advice with a grain of salt. I'm no groomer, just trying to maintain :nerd:


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## Goldens&Friesians (May 31, 2014)

First, as a professional groomer, I want to advise you to never use a scissor to cut out mats! I've seen way too many dogs that had to be stitched back together because their owner tried to use a scissors to cut out mats. If they can't be brushed out, the best think to do is use a clipper to shave them out. Then after the hair grows back in, use a thinning shears to keep the extra fluff trimmed down before it can become matted. If the hair is they type of hair I'm thinking from your descriptions (thin, lighter color, very soft and whispy), you can probably pretty easily just hand strip it out. Hand stripping is literally just taking a pinch of hair and pulling it out. It doesn't hurt the dog (my own dog falls asleep for it!) but some dogs who aren't used to it, may be bothered by the pulling. If you aren't comfortable with doing that, have a professional groomer shave out the mats (but specify to only shave the mats, because there are some out there who would shave the whole dog). If you are lucky enough to find a groomer who knows how to show groom a golden, they can do the ears up nice and neat, maybe even be willing to show you how for a fee or whatever. Otherwise, use a slicker brush and greyhound comb every day under and behind the ears to prevent the mats from forming. A great product you can use (best I've ever found!) is Trophy Line Manely Long Hair detangler. (can be purchased on their website www.manelylonghair.com) A tiny bit goes a long way. Just work some of that into the coat about once a week or so and it'll make brushouts easy and help prevent mats from forming. I use it on my 2 horses and my dog and a 12oz. bottle lasts about 3-4 months, so I would guess it would last at least twice as long for only 1 dog.


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## Prism Goldens (May 27, 2011)

Cutting mats out is a bad idea. If you feel you must, place a comb into the mat parallel to the skin and between it and the mat. 
And then cut. The comb will prevent you from getting skin which bleeds massively! 
To keep them from re-matting, use thinners on that wavy thin hair, and a comb and get it mostly gone. 
Her ear will cover that area, so also do that back side of her ear and you should prevent most mats that way.
I prefer combs to brushes, and comb through that area every day. Underarms also tend to mat when not combed daily.


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## rabernet (Feb 24, 2015)

Prism Goldens said:


> Cutting mats out is a bad idea. If you feel you must, place a comb into the mat parallel to the skin and between it and the mat.
> And then cut. The comb will prevent you from getting skin which bleeds massively!
> To keep them from re-matting, use thinners on that wavy thin hair, and a comb and get it mostly gone.
> Her ear will cover that area, so also do that back side of her ear and you should prevent most mats that way.
> I prefer combs to brushes, and comb through that area every day. Underarms also tend to mat when not combed daily.


Thankfully - I've never cut my dogs - I do similar to what you recommend with a comb, but pinch it with my fingers, so that the skin is behind my fingers. And never, ever if the dog is wiggly. But then - I try to prevent mats in the first place. 

When I volunteered with a service dog facility here, I will never forget bathing the girl I was bringing home for the weekend, and then the trainer feeling the mat, then cutting it out, but also cutting the dog open behind the ear - and then we had to call the staff vet to come over and stitch her up. Poor girl - all she wanted was a home visit that weekend!


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## Megora (Jun 7, 2010)

I would look into learning how to groom them properly to begin with. Not talking just brushing. 

No clippers or straight shears. 

No furminators.


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## Gleepers (Apr 20, 2016)

Listening to everyone?s suggestions. I haven?t attempted to go after the ones close to the skin with scissors (don?t want to cut skin). 
I?ve got a furminator (useless on the bulk of the dog, but can try around the ears). I?ll have to pick up some detangling spray. 
If I don?t have success with the easy fixes I might have to seek out the professionals. 
Penny isn?t one of the fluffy Golden?s. Pretty short fur and a good daily brushing has been fine. 
She lines up in the morning when my little one brushes her hair waiting for her turn. 
Those darn ears though.


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## Prism Goldens (May 27, 2011)

Here is a great page (4 actually) on grooming Goldens properly. 
Morningsage Goldens Grooming
You'll need some straight scissors and thinning shears, and a good Greyhound comb.


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## puddles everywhere (May 13, 2016)

Sips is still getting her adult coat. We have lots of baby fuzz on the tail and back legs... she looks like she is wearing sheepskin chaps. She does have signs of long locks between her front legs and just above her hind hocks so at some point expecting the silky stuff.
Prism was right on, the places I spend extra time combing out daily are behind the ears and arm pits. 
Gratefully I have lots of time for the girls so baths are every 7 to 10 days with daily comb outs & raking out the undercoat so haven't had any knots. My grooming skills won't win any prizes but as long as Sips sleeps on my bed, she will be clean.

This is Sips summer coat, she's snoozing on my bed.


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## Karen Mitchell (Oct 30, 2016)

I've always clipped behind the ears with a 3mm blade and at the same time I'll do between the paws. Never a problem


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