# Too much exercise?



## Ljilly28 (Jan 22, 2008)

I dont want to cut and paste Rhonda Hovan's slow grow walk recommendations without her permission, but here's the link:http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:bEwmih72nBcJ:www.goldenretriever.lv/Rhonda%2520Hovan%2520Slow%2520Grow%25202002.doc+rhonda+hovan,+puppy+slow+grow&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=2&gl=us&client=safari

Puppies can do much more off leash walking on good terrain than on leash/concrete safely, bc dogs are meant to stop; start, romp;sniff.


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## Emma&Tilly (May 15, 2005)

I believe a puppy should have restricted exercise when it comes to lead walking on concrete/paths but should be allowed more time to burn off a little energy on softer ground which is kinder to their joints. Say on a training walk (on the lead) I would restrict the walk to 15 minutes as it would be on hard footpaths. If the walk was in woodland or fields and the puppy was off the lead, I would walk for up to half an hour at a gentle pace. I do know of people that have excessively walked their dog as a yongster (even on soft ground, off the lead) and their dog is in a terrible state with her hips at just 3 years old. They did walk her an awful lot though but it has made me very aware of just what too much exerise can do.

I would be mindful of not letting a puppy jump, especially on hard ground.


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## Pointgold (Jun 6, 2007)

The general "rule of thumb" is to restrict concussive exercise until mature (musculo/skeletal) - ie running/jogging on hard surfaces, and even to limit long walks on the same. Some will say that stair climbing is a problem, I'm somewhat skeptical of that although we have ony 2 steps at any place in our home, so I am not able to say that I've seen any issues on that front.

While growing, (and always) swimming is the best exercise, as it is non-concussive.


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## tippykayak (Oct 27, 2008)

Hard surfaces are tough on them, as is having to keep human pace rather than having their own. I completely agree with LJilly that off-leash time on grass or in the woods is easier on their bone system than leash walking or paved surface walking. 

I've always let the dog tell me he's approaching too much, with the caveat that he will "tell you" by losing his pep or other more subtle signs, not necessarily by falling behind, limping, or crying. Many dogs will absolutely hurt themselves to keep pace, but a while before that would happen, you'll see the dog stop running from smell to smell and start walking very efficiently, or you'll see other signs that the dog is becoming uncomfortable or tired. If you know your dog's gait and typical behavior, you can watch for small changes and end the exercise long before you've done too much.

It's much harder to read these signs if the dog is on a leash, since he knows its his job to keep pace. Off leash, their behavior is more varied, so you'll be able to see more indicators.

Gus would absolutely do himself terrible damage if you didn't read the signs. He overheated in a bad way twice in his life because I didn't watch his behavior carefully while he was fetching. Tennis balls overrode his common sense, so he would still sprint for them, even if he was dizzy and about to vomit. You had to realize he was starting to slow down on the return with the ball, since this was a dog who felt no pain when he was in "working" mode. Once, a stick gave hims about a 4 inch gash on his leg while he was fetching in the rain, and he didn't limp, lick it, or otherwise acknowledge it in any way. We only found it when we toweled him off at home. Twice, he tore his front pads off in fetching games on the wrong surfaces (who knew a dirt road would do that?) because he was cornering so hard, but he didn't show it and didn't want to stop playing.

On hikes, after about 7 miles of fairly intense terrain, he would stop running ahead and back again and just trot down the trail in front of us. I knew when he started being efficient with his energy that it meant he was approaching overworked, and we'd take a big break for some water and rest.

I don't think you can make a blanket time for exercise or distance for walking since dogs and terrain vary so dramatically. I do think you can know your dog's gait and attitude and watch it for the signs of fatigue.


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## Pointgold (Jun 6, 2007)

tippykayak said:


> Hard surfaces are tough on them, as is having to keep human pace rather than having their own. I completely agree with LJilly that off-leash time on grass or in the woods is easier on their bone system than leash walking or paved surface walking.
> 
> I've always let the dog tell me he's approaching too much, with the caveat that he will "tell you" by losing his pep or other more subtle signs, not necessarily by falling behind, limping, or crying. Many dogs will absolutely hurt themselves to keep pace, but a while before that would happen, you'll see the dog stop running from smell to smell and start walking very efficiently, or you'll see other signs that the dog is becoming uncomfortable or tired. If you know your dog's gait and typical behavior, you can watch for small changes and end the exercise long before you've done too much.
> 
> ...


I agree with Brian, here, but feel compelled to add that it is best to err on the side of caution with an immature dog and stop _before_ seeing any signs of fatigue. Young dogs will be more likley to keep going long after they are at a point where damage (and not necessarily immediate damage, but that which will become apparent later) can occur. Additionally, a puppy that is over-tired may have behavioral issues that one would rather avoid


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## avincent52 (Jul 23, 2008)

Okay, I guess I'll stop worrying. 

The Rhonda Hovan exercise regimen is close to the "forced march" of that vet. Tessie's never been anywhere near a mile and a half she suggested. 
Our walks are largely on concrete and slate sidewalks--maybe a 1/4 mile out and back--but there's no fast walking, much less running, there's frequent stopping, and within reason, I let Tessie set the pace--if not the terms. She also probably does half the walk on little strips of people's front lawns. 
I guess my bad back would probably complain long before Tessie would. 
I've lost 15 pounds in the past two months, much of that dog related. Now, if I could just get her to stop growing--picking her up 20 times a day isn't really enhancing my lumbar health.
allen


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## tippykayak (Oct 27, 2008)

Pointgold said:


> I agree with Brian, here, but feel compelled to add that it is best to err on the side of caution with an immature dog and stop _before_ seeing any signs of fatigue. Young dogs will be more likley to keep going long after they are at a point where damage (and not necessarily immediate damage, but that which will become apparent later) can occur. Additionally, a puppy that is over-tired may have behavioral issues that one would rather avoid


I think that advice is fair. The balance can be tricky when it's so nice to have a tired puppy around and so scary to think you could injure him for life.

Having let Gus hurt himself in the minor ways I described in my post, I'll absolutely admit my reading of the dog for fatigue or injury has let me down on at least four occasions. Even if that's less than 0.1% of the time, it has happened. Laura's advice may indeed be more prudent.


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## Pointgold (Jun 6, 2007)

tippykayak said:


> The balance can be tricky when it's so nice to have a tired puppy around...
> 
> 
> > Tranqulizers, baby! : (just KIDDING!!!! Besides, I didn't clarify if the dog or the owner should take them... ):curtain:


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## KatzNK9 (Feb 27, 2007)

I restrict heavy exercise to approximately 10 minutes per month of age when they're young & don't allow extended periods on hard surfaces. Romps in the grasy yard, I let them go until they don't want to go any more unless pup just won't slow down to take breathers.


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## paranthesis (Jan 14, 2009)

I read 10-15 mins per month old, up to the point where they are 6-9 months old anyway. So at 8 weeks about 20-30 minutes ideally split between 2 walks. 12 weeks old 30-45 mins. etc, etc, etc


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## AmbikaGR (Dec 31, 2007)

Pointgold said:


> The general "rule of thumb" is to restrict concussive exercise until mature (musculo/skeletal) - ie running/jogging on hard surfaces, and even to limit long walks on the same. Some will say that stair climbing is a problem, I'm somewhat skeptical of that although we have ony 2 steps at any place in our home, so I am not able to say that I've seen any issues on that front.
> 
> While growing, (and always) swimming is the best exercise, as it is non-concussive.


I agree with Laura here. As for the stairs I have never felt the climbing was the problem. I believe it is going down them that is the most dangerous as most pups will tend to run full speed down them and then launch themselves long before they reach the bottom step causing the damage.


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## avincent52 (Jul 23, 2008)

Pointgold said:


> tippykayak said:
> 
> 
> > The balance can be tricky when it's so nice to have a tired puppy around...
> ...


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## Pointgold (Jun 6, 2007)

avincent52 said:


> *Pointgold Mother's Little Helper*, callname *Xanax*.


 
HAHAHAHAHA! I'm using that!

(only, Nitelite's Mother's Little Helper) 

LOVE it!


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## moverking (Feb 26, 2007)

Pointgold said:


> HAHAHAHAHA! I'm using that!
> 
> (only, Nitelite's Mother's Little Helper)
> 
> LOVE it!


Uh-Uh...Call name should be 'Val', lol


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## Pointgold (Jun 6, 2007)

moverking said:


> Uh-Uh...Call name should be 'Val', lol


Xanax (Zan) is good, too. Especially if you are dyslexic.:


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## avincent52 (Jul 23, 2008)

Valium is so old-school.


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## LilysMom (Oct 21, 2008)

I was just speaking to another woman who has children in their late teens, early twenties. We were discussing our various pharmaceutical experiences. I think Xanax is universally revered by mothers EVERYWHERE!
:--big_grin:


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## Rhapsody in Gold (Dec 22, 2007)

tippykayak said:


> I don't think you can make a blanket time for exercise or distance for walking since dogs and terrain vary so dramatically. I do think you can know your dog's gait and attitude and watch it for the signs of fatigue.


I agree with this statement. We usually start our morning off leash at the dog park (3 acres of wooded trails fenced off). There are also horseback riding trails that we have been walking on now that it is winter. I carry the leashes if I need them, but my three Goldens are free to run and take everything in at their own pace. Usually we go for 30 to 45 minutes. You can tell as they wind down. They will start to lay down and chew on something or become mellow. That is when they are pretty much down to zero. I will walk with them maybe 15 minutes more by a pretty lake where there are geese and people fishing . I do this mostly for leash training and bonding. Then we get in the car and leave. Our puppy who is 12 weeks old, falls alseep on my scarf within minutes of turning on the heat in the car. The other two sit quietly in the back looking out the window. They seem calm and content with this routine.

I am going to take them swimming starting this spring. My oldest is going to be in a dock diving class. There is also an indoor pool nearby where you can reserve slots of time for your dog to swim. Most people take their dogs for therapeutic reasons, but they do offer it to people who want to exercise their dogs. It is expensive ($55 per half hour) but I may do this now and then over the winter to change our routine a bit. We have rough winters in the Chicago area and there are periods of time where it is really a challenge to be outdoors.


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## avincent52 (Jul 23, 2008)

bump for cathy jo bray and lea noel who asked the same question in another thread. Much good stuff here, I think.


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