# when will the hand biting stop?



## Cpc1972

She is probably close to getting out of this stage. Some take longer then others. When she goes to bite give her a toy and show her what she can bite. Maybe do some quick training sessions and work on the basics when she gets like that.


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## nolefan

It will stop when you make it clear to her that you won't tolerate this behavior anymore. She is getting past the age of redirecting, that is what you should have been doing when she was a smaller puppy, keep a stuffed animal on hand at all times and when she gets bitey, tell her "eh-eh - no bite" in a stern voice and then quickly replace the hand with the toy - tell her in a happy voice "here you go". If you've been doing this all along, CONSISTENTLY, she shouldn't still be doing this. 

Rub some butter on a spot on your hand and teach her to "kiss-kiss" on command. She licks the spot and gets a reward. The minute she puts teeth on you, firmly grab her top jaw, roll her upper lip down onto her upper teeth to protect your finger and in a deep (not loud) but deep, stern tone and tell her "eh-eh". Stop any game that started it. Have her drag a short, 3 foot leash (cut an old cheap one off if you don't have one) and use this to help control her. When she calms down, try the butter and 'kiss kiss' again. If she's out of control, put her in a crate for a nap. Be sure she is getting appropriate rest and aerobic exercise on a daily basis. Because she is teething, she needs appropriate chew items. Frozen wet soft toy can be good. Frozen raw beef shank slices from the butcher are also good. 

Zero tolerance on the biting your skin. This needs to stop.


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## Charliethree

lundenstallings said:


> my golden puppy is 5 months old and is absolutely perfect other than she LOVES to bite hands. I know she is in the teething stage but when will the hand biting stop and how do I help prevent it?


Consider what you want her to do instead, how you want her to ask politely for attention, (sit) or invite you to play (bring a toy). (A well taught, and rewarded, and reliable response to the 'sit' cue can prevent a lot of misbehaviors in dogs)

Take the time to teach 'Off' (Leave it), 'Take it', 'Drop it' and don't forget to say 'Thank you', ensuring that these training sessions are at a time when your dog is calm and is able to focus and learn. These are great exercises to help a dog learn 'self control'.


Take the time to read up on teaching 'Bite Inhibition' from reliable sources such as Karen Pryor, Ian Dunbar.


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## lundenstallings

She is a very good dog. She knows how to sit, lay down, roll over, shake, and high five. She is also potty trained. She is very sweet but she has started to lose a lot of teeth and is still teething. She actually just got her last set of shots today and the vet says she is only doing this out of play which is what she is doing. Each day she gets better, thank you for your input and advice.


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## amwagner

We are only at 11 weeks-- I can't imagine another month or so of this!! Good Luck- please share back if anything works for you. I could use the advice!!


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## kellyguy

Charliethree offered the "golden" piece of advice. Instead of concentrating on stopping the "bad" behavior, give them a direction to do something you want them to do. You might have started out with the intention of "leash walking" and the puppy decides that biting the leash or your clothes is what he would rather do.
One "nope", sit. Stop until you get a sit. Reward compliance with a "good boy" and even a treat and then immediately begin training "something" that you want them to do, not necessarily trying to continue with "leash walking". I most often used a flirt pole or a tug toy at that stage and engaged in a bit of unbridled play that I would always abruptly interrupt with a "stop", "sit".
We might never get back to "leash walking" that day but we had fun and learned incredible skills with stop and sit.
The biggest impediment that I had and still contend with is that my dog has a very strong drive towards exploring every scent he comes across. I would and still do walk at a very fast pace and choose my path to guide him away from anything that would be an obvious place where other dogs would probably have marked, such as mailbox posts and trees. If I notice him starting to divert attention away towards something I will say heel and redirect his focus back on me. 
This will tire both of us out faster than a leisurely stroll and I always stop at the furthest "away" point and let him explore while I catch my breath. I'm not trying to teach him leash skills during these walks. I can do that in my living room. This is purely to burn off energy.
When we get home we cool down and then we are ready to train in a much better state of mind.


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